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Discussion Starter #1
It seems that every GL1800 that comes into my shop has cooling hose leaks ... nothing new there. Lately, ones coming in with around 100,000 always leak over night when the pressure tester is left on and from the large rad. hose clamp at the LF rad connection. Nothing unusual there either. Here is the confusing part. The one in my shop now, an 06 with about 100k on it, has had the eng pulled twice. So this is not an example of the OH worker not tightening a hose clamp. And why always the LF and never the RF. Both LF and RF hoses are well potected by an inner cover. Any body got any ideas why it is often the LF and not the RF? The only thing I can figure is from more exposier to oncoming traffic's wind blast.
 

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I'd sure hope wind blasts from oncoming traffic wouldn't loosen any hose clamps.
Am I missing something here?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe it has to do with the direction of the water circulation. Of coarse I am assuming that the radiators, the hoses, and the clamps are all made of the same quaility. So it is like we are down to wind and direction of circulation. Maybe it was just the prior mechnic who didn't tighten it. It always seems to be the left side.

Here is the link for a get togethe during WingDing for anyone on the board wanting to get together.
http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286007

wimpyhonda needs a head count
 

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Greg, just another thought. How tightly fit is the hose (stretched) and what happens to the stress on that hose when the engine torque is applied?

Like you, don't know why the left side is a bigger problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Greg, just another thought. How tightly fit is the hose (stretched) and what happens to the stress on that hose when the engine torque is applied?

Like you, don't know why the left side is a bigger problem.
Those are good points ... I don't think the L is a tighter routing the the R and there really is no torque flex like a car. The engine is solidly mounted directly to the frame at 6 points. But if it did, it would the hose would get longer for that rad. ... maybe there is some frame flex causing that ... hummm. At this level, we would never know.
 

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Come on Greg snap out of it!! You know dam well we all get hosed because-"It"s a Left Wing Conspiracy" :joke:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now it is my Wing (07 55k) that is leaking from the LF rad hose clamp. My eng was pulled less the 5,000 miles ago and been smelling antifreeze for a while. Maybe the thing to do is go to an aftermarket "fatter" hose clamp. What ever happened to those old GM hose clamps that no one liked but never leaked. I think it is time to go buy a case of aftermarket clamps. If I can't make them work, and Honda can't make them work, and other mechanics cannot make them work, there is either a hose problem, a clamp problem, or a rad nipple problem. I know the aluminum was cleaned and so would have been the inner contact area of the hose.

I give up with OEM clamps for those main frt hoses. I've switched to aftermarket. I take me a lot to change since I know the quality standard of OEM is better, but think fatter is better in this case. I no longer put the heads facing out either. They are no accessable so that I don't have to pull the ferring loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just so everyone knows. It is a oncoming wind blast thing causing the LF rad hose clamp to leak. The hose is routed in such a way that it rubs on the farring. When the farring gets a blast of air from oncoming traffic, there is more flex more often in the left farring which is pulling ever so slightly on the hose that is pulling on the radiator.
 

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Just so everyone knows. It is a oncoming wind blast thing causing the LF rad hose clamp to leak. The hose is routed in such a way that it rubs on the farring. When the farring gets a blast of air from oncoming traffic, there is more flex more often in the left farring which is pulling ever so slightly on the hose that is pulling on the radiator.
I don't doubt you, but how in the world did you figure that out?
 

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Because when you look at the hose, it is imprinted from the plastic stand off from the ferring. The plastic stand off is the one used for the single screw that sequeres the "cowl, left inner." The hose actually bends around it and gets partially collaped as it does. From there the hose goes straight to the radiator. As the cowl flexes ever so slightly the hose, as it goes around that bend pulls on the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm going to revisit that today and post pix. When I reinstalled the motor, I try to reinstall the same. I might shorten the hose length attached to the rad to see if that is a better routing.
 

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I'm going to revisit that today and post pix. When I reinstalled the motor, I try to reinstall the same. I might shorten the hose length attached to the rad to see if that is a better routing.
Do post pictures, I want to see this.
 

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How do I get to the clamp. I am stuck in Carlsbad NM with a drip leak... Also - can this be driven to Albuquerque?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pull the inner LF inner cowl (black) and you can see the clamp. Most likely you will not be able to tighten from that access point. To tighten it, have a 12" 1/4 drive extension and 6mm 1/4 drive wobbly and pull the ferring loose and forward on the left side. Then reach in from the side grill area.

How bad does yours leak?
 

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Pull the inner LF inner cowl (black) and you can see the clamp. Most likely you will not be able to tighten from that access point. To tighten it, have a 12" 1/4 drive extension and 6mm 1/4 drive wobbly and pull the ferring loose and forward on the left side. Then reach in from the side grill area.

How bad does yours leak?
Greg.I wouldn't try try that.unless you loosen the whole cowl.Yes you can get acess to the Rear of the radiator,But towards the front you can not unless you literally have the cowl just about off to see the front radiator hose clamps with the front of the cowl still attached to the other half of the other cowl.It just won't flex enough up front to see the clamps.

Now if Honda turned the hose clamps around (Facing the forks),Then it would be as simple as removing the inner panel and re-tightening the offending clamp and be on your way in 15 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Do post pictures, I want to see this.
Thanks Rocky for posting that pix. At the bottom of that red panel, you can barely see the single screw hole. There is a matting stand off for the screw to screw into on the ferring. The pix does not show any indentaion from that stand off, but also that is not a fitted panel. It is hanging loose and forward so you cannot see how the hose is affected by how it is routed. Once everything is assembled, the hose will get pulled on ever so slightly and that tension, I beleive, is what causes the clamp to leak.

When I loosen the ferring, I remove the 3 mount screws and then pull the L side loose only. I never seporate the ferring halves. It will pull forward about 2 inches and just enough to tighten the clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here is a pix of the stand-off that the hose wraps around. When I push slightly on the ferring, there is enough flex to pull a little on the hose connecting to the radiator.
 

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What pressure do you test at? I believe the radiator has a 20 pound cap. I tested my 02 with 235,000 miles last winter at 20 pounds and had antifreeze coming out of almost every hose on the bike. I tightened clamps and it still came out some places. I tested at 15 and all seemed OK.
 
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