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Discussion Starter #1
I need to lift the wing with my generic bike jack to change a rear alternative tire. I have never lifted the wing on this jack and not sure where to strap it to to keep it from falling. Can someone post pics showing where to strap to? The jack is rated for 1500 pounds...I usually just lay it on the side but now have 2 pairs of BIG lights under the mirrors that think would hit the ground...TIA
Fast Eddie
 

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Eddie, need a picture of your jack. There are so many different types out there I can't give you an answer without knowing what you've got. And I'm going to have to look back through my pictures to find your bike so I can tell if you can still lay it over. Gramps had the the Future Vision on his bike and he could still have it on its side without hitting.

So either need a pic or a brand name. I've got a harbor Freight, it goes in the same location as a PitBull jack.

Edit: found the pic I was looking for, and yeah, I think you might hit that bottom Moth Blaster if you lay it over. So need a pic or model of your jack.

PA313498.jpg
 

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A much easier way to change that tire is to lay the bike down on its right side, and not mess with a jack. You have to get the bike WAY up to get the tire out, and if you are a normal person, you should be able to lay it down and pick it up the right way, or get a couple friends to help for an hour.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TShysJyHb-0
 

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Dynodon - good input but he normally lays it over to change the tire, but now he's farkled himself out of that option. So he's going to have to do the jack it up and drop the tire routine. He can't just put it on the center stand and pull the rear fender as he's got a trailer hitch back there.

Poor Eddie - all them toys to deal with. :lol::twisted:
 

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I use an ATV jack. It has tiedowns for straps but of course they are too close together to do much good. I just run a strap on each side over the foot peg and to each tie down. It's something, but not great. With the small jacks it is possible to tip the whole jack over so no matter how you strap it I doubt if it would be OSHA approved. I've used mine for ten years and lift the bike several times a year with never a problem. When the jack is all the way up I can lay on the floor with one arm wedged under the rear wheel while the other is breaking the lugs loose. All though the bike will bob and twist on the jack I have never come close to dropping it.
 

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Recommend breaking the lug nuts loose, and doing the final tightening, while the bike is still on the ground. Hell of a surprise to be torqueing on the beast and suddenly have it come down on you or something else. The tip over guards don't do so well being tested from a height.:eek:4:
 

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If you are talking about the ATV type jack with the two parallel supports, I lift my Wing and remove both wheels and don't use any tie down straps at all. I can even roll the jack around if I need to. Just loosen all the wheel bolts before lifting. Been doing it this way for years without incident.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Jerry,
The jack is from harbor freight and is yellow in color as I have had it about 8 years and NEVER used it. I bought it for my Polaris Sportsman 700 and never did anything to it. I just thought maybe I could get her up high enough with out removing drivers pegs and lights. No big deal to remove lights but losing the aiming I would hate as they are about perfect to land low flying aircraft now...
 

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Okay, saw your post. Went to HF link you provided, I've got the same lift (but mine was on sale for something like $30-35 after coupon) ;)

I've got to go outside and do some snowblowing before we get more later. Then I'll put the bike on the lift, take some pictures and then post them for you.

The mounting points for that lift are the same as the PitBull, but the Pit is a much more beefier lift. I've changed a rear tire with the HF before, but I will admit to not wanting to wobble the bike much when it is lifted up high on that thing. Definitely break the lug nuts loose first when using that lift. Oh, and the "let the bike down slow" position on the pedal - doesn't come down real slow, but is slower than the drop it fast position. There was a mod posted on the forum quite a while back regarding drilling the foot pedal and putting a bolt in to limit the amount of travel of the pedal, so the bike would come down slower. I'll try to find that later, just been too lazy to do it to my own. And since the garage is 33° and soon to be 12° when I open the door to shovel, I'm not going to do it today either.

Be glad I'm willing to even hook up the lift for pictures for you.

repost in an hour or two.
 

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Just my thinking, but it seems like it would be less effort to re-aim the lights than jack up the bike. Maybe put some reference aiming points on the wall before removing lights.

John
 

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Recommend breaking the lug nuts loose, and doing the final tightening, while the bike is still on the ground. Hell of a surprise to be torqueing on the beast and suddenly have it come down on you or something else. The tip over guards don't do so well being tested from a height.:eek:4:
I would like to learn more about you go about doing this. In my near future, I will be dependent on using a lift to swap out rear wheels. When the is on the ground, there doesn't seem to be enough space to swing a wrench of any length. Do you also remove the fender?

Enjoy the snow removal! :coffee1:
 

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Murgie - When I didn't have a riding bud with a ride on lift, I removed the center panel and had enough room for swinging the wrench. I was using a Sears lift, but that and the HF are very similar. Good idea though to use some ratchet straps just in case. As Jerry the COB says it is a bit scary, just take your time. For what it's worth the first rear (MC) change the nuts were so tight I had to use a cheater pipe on a 24in breaker bar and it was on the lift at the time. Hope this helps.

Ride safely

Crabby Bob
 

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I had the lower side covers off the other day to tighten hose clamps looking for coolant leaks. After looking a the bottom of the bike and seeing the exhaust pipes running down low I would be worried about raising a 900 lbs bike using the exhaust pipes as a lifting point.
 

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I need to lift the wing with my generic bike jack to change a rear alternative tire. I have never lifted the wing on this jack and not sure where to strap it to to keep it from falling.
Eddie, Z posted a pic of his Wing on a lift that showed eye-bolts drilled and anchored into the floor. 4 rachet straps then did the trick.

You could park your Wing on a sheet of plywood and screw eyebolts into some wood blocking.


gramps
 

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Okay, Here's some pictures showing location for lifting. The jack comes in from the right side, the left support goes under the center stand pivot. The right side goes under the engine, if you have a belly pan it just rests against the pan (no damage will occur). Whilst pumping the lift lever, have left hand on passenger grab handle and the right on the handle bar to steady the bike while it goes from a left lean to an upright position, then up it goes. I could still lift it another inch or so, but as you can see by the pic with the glove the bike is high enough to get the tire out. I do have tiedown straps that I can place from the lift to the front and rear tip-over bars, but honestly I don't think I've ever used them, and I've pulled rear tires off and the entire front fork system before.

When lowering the bike, chain the safety bar back in place so the lift will go all the way down, then QUICKLY press the foot release lever all the way. If you slowly push the lever to the full down position, you WILL end up with the bike rapidly going down as the rapid release position is halfway down on the lever.

Edit: Forgot to mention - easier to get the lift under the bike if the rear preload is set to max (20-25 - can't remember how high it goes - I just leave it at max). If the preload is low, or the tire is flat, then you get to be graceful or enlist a helper. Stand with both feet on ground, pull bike towards you to lift it to vertical. Then you gracefully stand on one leg while rolling the lift under the bike, then pumping the lift lever with your other leg. Or get the helper to move the lift and pump.


P1253635.jpg P1253630.jpg P1253633.jpg

P1253638.jpg P1253639.jpg
 

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I would like to learn more about you go about doing this. In my near future, I will be dependent on using a lift to swap out rear wheels. When the is on the ground, there doesn't seem to be enough space to swing a wrench of any length. Do you also remove the fender?

Enjoy the snow removal! :coffee1:
There is enough room to get in there and torque (loose or tight) the lug nuts without removing anything. On the road I have a HF collapsible ratchet wrench that works fine, and will recheck the proper torque when back home. At home I use a torque wrench on a ratchet adapter to tighten, and a breaker bar with ratchet adapter to get them loose. While you don't have a lot of travel room for the wrench, you also don't need a lot because all you're doing is breaking the nut loose, not trying to completely remove them at that moment. So you only need to move them but a little bit to get the high-torque off of them.

The lift is more than stable enough for you to wrench on the nut the rest of the way. Also, big difference in regards to wiggling the bike in trying to get 80 ft-lb of torque loose vs. 30-40 ft-lb if the nuts are still a bit tight. What's really a bear is if the nut is on tighter than 80 ft-lb (or for the purists - 80 lbf•ft). Then I'm real glad to be loosening it while still on the ground.

Now normally on my bike I lay it on its side - so much easier to change out. But there are times when I have to use the lift on mine or others.

And in regards to snow removal ---

P1253628.jpg
 

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Couple more views of the bike on the lift.

P1253640.jpg P1253641.jpg
 
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