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Put backrest on is there a trick to getting bolts started or am I just missng something. Looks like everything lines up but just won't go. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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The only problem I had was keeping those round rubber holders on the back of the seat in place. Everything else lined up fine. Are the front tabs in correctly?
 

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Tapered bolts worked for me. Before I purchased mine, it would drive me crazy everything I took the seat off.

Some on here have tapered their own bolts. I purchased mine from DLP. Makes it almost easy putting the seat back on.
 

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No need to fight it, should go on easy.

put some contact cement on the rubber seat bumpers, let that sit a bit, now those will not fall out .

Take a phillips screw driver and gently line up the seat holes with the holes in the frame. Tap the seat forward or back , whatever it takes.

Once you do it a time or two, pretty easy. But a screwdriver or long smooth rod , something will help you line them up.
 

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If you have access to a bench grinder, use it to taper the ends of the bolts and the screwdriver trick will work even better. I used a socket wrench and extension to hold the bolt so I could spin it better for a more even taper.
 

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Sometimes they are a PITA. Don't tighten them down until all are lined up and started a few threads by hand...
 

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Shine the light thru the hole to see what's up.
On mine - I have to press the seat down where the hole is for it to catch ...
 

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I prefer a wooden dowel to line up the threads. Less chance of messing up the threads.
 

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I took some plastic hangers, broke them up and sharpened them in a pencil sharpener. Put one in each hole, remove each and put a bolt in place. I also got the tapered bolts when I had a 1500.
 

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:eek:4: Personally I'm kind of a brave guy but not that brave to try and take my seat off again...I've read this thread a number of times over the past months and I will try the tapering of the existing bolts once I get the courage up to remove the beast :cry:
 

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just had this seat discusion with someone yesterday, hard to believe so many folks find it difficult to install the stock seat, i use the phillips screwdriver trick and it works great, no need to remove backrest just open the trunk, i have worked on quite a few wings and the only time getting the seat on was difficult was with a custom seat, custom seats can sometimes turn the simple job of installing seat into a real serious wrestling match :eek:4:
 

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I bought a long wooden dowl at Home Depot that is perfect to shove through the seat holes and into the frame holes.

I cut it in four pieces and line everything up with that. then I pull out the dowls one at a time and replace with the bolts.

Also I got the black bolts from Chrome world that have an extension past the threads to help get the bolt lines up. You do need to watch for rust from them, but they help.

I have found the process to be very painful and I had to purchase the tap set to clean up threads that had been mangled by my previous efforts to reinstall the saddle.



 

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No need to fight it, should go on easy.

put some contact cement on the rubber seat bumpers, let that sit a bit, now those will not fall out .
I prefer a wooden dowel to line up the threads. Less chance of messing up the threads.
Both of these ideas are good and excuse me if I swipe-im' both! :thumbup:

Always had some problems getting things to stay in place and to line up! :shock:
 

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I prefer a wooden dowel to line up the threads. Less chance of messing up the threads.
me too. I cut a 1/4" dowel into 4 sections (probably 3-4" long) and insert all 4 to get everything nicely lined up. Then remove one a time and insert bolt, hand tighten at first - very easy to strip the Al threads.
 

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Good tips, one other trick is to only put one bolt in initially, then put another on the opposite side and diagonally to the first. This will pretty much cause the remaining two to line up. Oh yea, don't tighten any of them till they're all in.

Tom
 

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Sometimes mine drops into place and sometimes it will make me cuss. On the cussing days I put the bolt in and start the threads without the grab handles being in place. Once I have all 4 bolts started I remove them from one side and install the bolts with the grab handles.
 

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And of course it's critical, even after you have everything lined up, to turn the bolt backwards as you are pushing it gently into the hole, until feel the bolt drop into the threads...that cuts way down on crossthreading.
 

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And of course it's critical, even after you have everything lined up, to turn the bolt backwards as you are pushing it gently into the hole, until feel the bolt drop into the threads...that cuts way down on crossthreading.
+1!
That's a good trick I have learned from my father (RIP) many years ago, to start every bolt in the "undo" direction to ensure proper thread engagement.
It was strange to me at the time, but works like a charm every time :)

Thanks, Dad!
 

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The "turn backwards" trick I used many years ago when I was a Tank Combat Recovery mechanic. On the old 48 series tanks, many blind bolts etc had to be placed without screwing the treads up. We would just turn bolt/screw backwards until we felt it drop into the treads. Worked all the time. Got to were we could do it without even looking at the bolt or bolt hole and in the dark.
 
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