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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am in the process of designing a new battery for my bike using Lithium Iron Lifepo4.
These will provide a lot more power than lead acid and have other benefits including longevity.
I was thinking about using 12 x 26650 Lifepo4 batteries at around 3500 mAh each. This should give me a battery with 42Ah capacity. The batteries are 3.2 V nominal each and 4 in series with 3 strings in parallel using 12 batteries should fit into the crevice where old lead acid will have been. They can run off standard alternator at up to 14.6 to 14.8 V charge rate.
I am using a 4S3P configuration (4 x 3.2 V batteries in series and Parallel 3 times). I will use a 100A BMS/PCB to protect the batteries from overcharge/undercharge.
I'll keep posts on this just in case anyone is interested. This should allow me to have a pretty good size AC invertor if needed and run pretty well everything I want with room to spare. I also plan to build some more batteries to allow me to run my CPAP machine when off the grid. 2 of these batteries in series should last around a week or more in series at 2 x 12 V = 24 V.

Anyone currently using Lithium on their bike ?

I figure I can build a battery for around $90 Canadian. Batteries are available on Amazon , Ebay and Aliexpress Battery Hookup.
Battery should last a lot longer than Lead Acid or AGM.
 

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If you are building your own, I wonder if it will hate the cold. On recommendation of Fred H. I bought one in august. By November, it wouldn't start. Took a big $$ hit when I sold it. Fred lives in FLA. I live in Northern Ohio. Yer profile says you're in Toronto, ONT. Let us know if your remake is affected by the freeze.
 
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Love The DCT
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I am in the process of designing a new battery for my bike using Lithium Iron Lifepo4.
These will provide a lot more power than lead acid and have other benefits including longevity.
I was thinking about using 12 x 26650 Lifepo4 batteries at around 3500 mAh each. This should give me a battery with 42Ah capacity. The batteries are 3.2 V nominal each and 4 in series with 3 strings in parallel using 12 batteries should fit into the crevice where old lead acid will have been. They can run off standard alternator at up to 14.6 to 14.8 V charge rate.
I am using a 4S3P configuration (4 x 3.2 V batteries in series and Parallel 3 times). I will use a 100A BMS/PCB to protect the batteries from overcharge/undercharge.
I'll keep posts on this just in case anyone is interested. This should allow me to have a pretty good size AC invertor if needed and run pretty well everything I want with room to spare. I also plan to build some more batteries to allow me to run my CPAP machine when off the grid. 2 of these batteries in series should last around a week or more in series at 2 x 12 V = 24 V.

Anyone currently using Lithium on their bike ?

I figure I can build a battery for around $90 Canadian. Batteries are available on Amazon , Ebay and Aliexpress Battery Hookup.
Battery should last a lot longer than Lead Acid or AGM.
Currently not using a lithium battery in the bike. They do not like cold weather. When the temp is in the 30’s and 40’s, the battery would not crank the bike. You had to leave the headlight on or turn on the grip or seat heaters for several minutes to “warm” the battery up. For me, the high cost, lighter weight, and longer life did not offset its poor cold weather performance.

Good luck on your endeavor to build one.

:doorag:
 

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I have a LiFePo (Shorai) battery on my Kawasaki now that is over 10 years old and still going strong. They also make them in the size for the Wing. The only issue they suffer from is that they don't like to provide current when cold (below about 38 degrees) so you have to first warm them up by turning on your bike and running your lights or heated gear for about a minute to warm them up before starting. I've parked overnight in the mountains when the temp dropped to near freezing at night, and all I noticed was it cranked over a little slow on the first start, but fired up and worked fine.

Really the biggest down side is simply the cost. They will outlast a lead acid, won't self discharge, and I never have to trickle charge them. I have one in my lawnmower that sits all winter long without a charger, and fires up the first time every spring.
 

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IMO, the savings in building your own pack isnt worth the safety risk, complexity, effort or weight saving. After all the considerations already mentioned, also check out the Odyssey PC680. Its a tough reputable AGM deep cycle/starter power sport battery. Search and you'll find other GL1800 owners modified their battery box and terminals to accept this battery. We use them extensively in experimental aircraft and they easily turn over high compression 540 CID engines. I also have one in my 3.0 V6 SOHC Honda Accord that is 11 years old and still turns over like new in cold weather.

Also keep in mind that you'll need a remote starter pack if you discharge any cell below a certain voltage, or the bike may still turn over but wont start. I think 11.2V while the engine is turning is required (WHILE UNDER LOAD) to fire the engine. Im sure someone else will be by to confirm minimum sustained loaded starting voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I guess I could always put a small heater circuit in around battery if reqd ! These LiFePO4 are supposed to go to -20 C !
 

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I'll bet that the fastest riders running 5th gens on Deals Gap wouldn't like them. They already complain about handling differences because it requires 1.5 gals of fuel to leaving the store, get to the look-out, and back to the store. According to them, 5th gens handle best with 1.0 gal of fuel or less. A lite battery on the left side would really give them something to talk about.
 

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As others have said... My Shorai went from cranking faster than the stock battery when hot to barely turning over the bike on a cool morning. I found even low to mid 50 temps (in California) were enough to affect the shorai battery and require a preheat with lights, etc. On my 103 ci Harley I was always caught between running the battery down with the preheat and having enough juice left to start it. Many times I also needed my spare lithium battery pack plugged in also. After less than a year, I had abused the battery to the point where it had about 80% of its original power and wouldn't work. I put it in another bike with easier starting for another 6 months or so then it died. Never again. The only thing I liked about this battery was the light weight when I was installing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Since I don’t ride. Much below 40 F if at all , this won’t be a problem. Maybe a small solar heater circuit could be wrapped around ! The LiFePO4 are safer for the environment too than lead !
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am using a LiFePO4 BMS/PCB and protected 26650 batteries ! These are the least explosive chemistry available ! Insulating the batteries may help them heat themselves a little too !
 

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Wow the Lithium’s have come a long way just in a year. We now have lithium IRON a step up in the lithium battery technology. Can the more informed elaborate on experience. The Iron tends to be safer with out the cold downside..? Also heavier because of iron phosphate content?
 

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This is an old thread. But just in case anyone wants to try the OP's idea, be cautioned. If you put 4 x 3.2v 3500mah batteries in series, you do get 12.8v, but you still only have 3500mah. You don't get to multiply the current, too.

So his configuration would net 10.5ah instead of his desired 42ah. It might be enough to work.
 

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This is an old thread. But just in case anyone wants to try the OP's idea, be cautioned. If you put 4 x 3.2v 3500mah batteries in series, you do get 12.8v, but you still only have 3500mah. You don't get to multiply the current, too.

So his configuration would net 10.5ah instead of his desired 42ah. It might be enough to work.
I recognized it was a 2019 thread just wasn’t 15 years old 😂. I wasn’t referring to manufacturing a battery plenty Lithium’s on the market, I was looking for the experience between the Ion and Iron... how many out there using and opinions on Lithium vs the AGM. Prices have come down substantially a ion goes for about $140 and the next step up $165. So does the benefit of less maintenance with longer life spans worth the change?
 

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I recognized it was a 2019 thread just wasn’t 15 years old 😂. I wasn’t referring to manufacturing a battery plenty Lithium’s on the market, I was looking for the experience between the Ion and Iron... how many out there using and opinions on Lithium vs the AGM. Prices have come down substantially a ion goes for about $140 and the next step up $165. So does the benefit of less maintenance with longer life spans worth the change?
It's okay, I wasn't addressing or picking on you. It was more of a fyi for anyone. I read the whole thread, thought someone else might, too. (y)
I don't have any idea about Ion vs Iron.
 

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It's okay, I wasn't addressing or picking on you. It was more of a fyi for anyone. I read the whole thread, thought someone else might, too. (y)
I don't have any idea about Ion vs Iron.
👍🏼 All good let’s see who answers, with experiences.....
Joe
 

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Fred Harmon tested one of the Iron batteries, but I believe our charging system doesn’t totally meet its needs. Maybe Fred will chime in. :unsure:
 

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Fred Harmon tested one of the Iron batteries, but I believe our charging system doesn’t totally meet its needs. Maybe Fred will chime in. :unsure:
Interesting I’d like to hear about that. I have a friend that installed a Lithium Ion on his 15 no issues so far did say that a lithium charger was needed because the AGM tenders would not work... the differences between Ion and Iron are the raw materials internally... lithium-ion battery usually uses lithium cobalt dioxide (LiCoO2) or lithium manganese oxide (LiMn2O4) as the cathode. Whereas, a lithium-iron battery, or a lithium-iron-phosphate battery, is typically made with lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) as the cathode..... this all sound Greek to me... 😟🙆🏻‍♂️
 

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I did some extensive research on my Shorai battery starting about 8 years ago, and posted up the data: pictures, experience with cold starting, cell balance, available voltage at various temps, and finally Shorai's customer service... over the course of about 2 years... on another forum. I learned a number of things. Bearing in mind this is an older thread, and that Shorai and other lithium manufacturers have updated their technology since then, this thread, spanning 11 pages, is located here: CLICKY

More recently I did some additional research on the differences between lithium iron phosphate and lithium ion batteries as I was searching for a solar generator: I eventually chose a Jackery 240.

Some of the things I learned recently are that Lithium iron phosphate batteries will outlast lithium ion, they cost more, they are safer, but that they are both heavier and bulkier.

Some things haven't changed with most of these available lithium batteries, as far as I know.

--At colder temps below 40 or so, lithium batteries begin to struggle.
--Over time, the individual cells of a lithium battery, like the Shorai for example, can get out of balance. There are 6 individual cells in each Shorai 12v lithium battery. Not sure about other brands. This means that one or more cells will rise and fall through subsequent charge/dischard cycles... at a slightly higher or lower voltage than the others. This condition can worsen over time. The cure is to utilize a special battery charger that monitors each cell and charges the battery cells individually to correct this imbalance. Shorai sells their brand of specialized charger for about 90 bucks, located here on their site: CLICKY
--A standard motorcycle charging system, or a regular battery charger, can adequately charge a lithium battery, but it cannot balance individual cells. Over time my Shorai cells grew more and more out of balance. This affected its cold weather performance.
--Lithium's carry a higher voltage at rest than standard lead/acid (or glass mat) batteries: 13.5 (or so) vs 12.8. This higher voltage translated to a higher cranking speed when starting my FJR, assume it's the same for the Honda.
 

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I did some extensive research on my Shorai battery starting about 8 years ago, and posted up the data: pictures, experience with cold starting, cell balance, available voltage at various temps, and finally Shorai's customer service... over the course of about 2 years... on another forum. I learned a number of things. Bearing in mind this is an older thread, and that Shorai and other lithium manufacturers have updated their technology since then, this thread, spanning 11 pages, is located here: CLICKY

More recently I did some additional research on the differences between lithium iron phosphate and lithium ion batteries as I was searching for a solar generator: I eventually chose a Jackery 240.

Some of the things I learned recently are that Lithium iron phosphate batteries will outlast lithium ion, they cost more, they are safer, but that they are both heavier and bulkier.

Some things haven't changed with most of these available lithium batteries, as far as I know.

--At colder temps below 40 or so, lithium batteries begin to struggle.
--Over time, the individual cells of a lithium battery, like the Shorai for example, can get out of balance. There are 6 individual cells in each Shorai 12v lithium battery. Not sure about other brands. This means that one or more cells will rise and fall through subsequent charge/dischard cycles... at a slightly higher or lower voltage than the others. This condition can worsen over time. The cure is to utilize a special battery charger that monitors each cell and charges the battery cells individually to correct this imbalance. Shorai sells their brand of specialized charger for about 90 bucks, located here on their site: CLICKY
--A standard motorcycle charging system, or a regular battery charger, can adequately charge a lithium battery, but it cannot balance individual cells. Over time my Shorai cells grew more and more out of balance. This affected its cold weather performance.
--Lithium's carry a higher voltage at rest than standard lead/acid (or glass mat) batteries: 13.5 (or so) vs 12.8. This higher voltage translated to a higher cranking speed when starting my FJR, assume it's the same for the Honda.
Your clicky to the fjr forum doesn’t work. Says you do not have permission to view this content.
 
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