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Hello all. I just wanted to share my experiences with performing three operations on my Gold Wing over the weekend. The first operation was to install an aluminum plate over the cruise control modulater as per Mr. Fred Harmon's instructions. This has totally eliminated the electrical noise emitting from my headsets and molded earpieces while the cruise control is engaged-wonderful!! The second operation was to install the www.speedohealer.com so as to have a correctly calibrated speedometer. Good product, easy to install with good and simple instructions. Third operation was to make a minor adjustment on the cruise control throttle cable; mine just needed two turns of the 'long' adjustment nut.

Finally, MS WHOYAH! was due an oil and filter change. What a POS is the Tulsa Belly Pan to remove and reinstall for a simple oil change. I complained about this same item when I installed it new a few months ago. Yes, I know I will sing its praises when it protects the undercraiagge from damage. Oh well, just have to get angry every eight thousand miles :wink:
 

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Nice! I'm glad to hear about your success with the metal plate. I may do the same thing this winter.
 

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On the Tulsa belly pan, you did just remove the front portion, right? I know the fasteners can be a little difficult, but should not be that bad for you unless something is not quite right.
 

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Yes, The Belly Pan is a PITA! It's a Great Piece of Mind Though! Congrats to You! :beer3:
 
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I also need to perform the "Metal Plate Over The Cruise Control" fix. It is an annoying sound when the cruise is on in your helmet speakers. Just wondering..... instead of making a metal plate to eliminate the interferance, could some heavy duty aluminum foil work just as well? You know Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap? That way it could be mold better around the cruise control module.
 

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Bruce,

It takes 15 seconds to remove the front of the belly pan and up to 30 seconds to put it back on. What pain are you having?? or are you taking off the whole pan front and rear??
 

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wingnutzz said:
On the Tulsa belly pan, you did just remove the front portion, right? I know the fasteners can be a little difficult, but should not be that bad for you unless something is not quite right.
Yes, I did initially remove just the front portion and it came right off. It's trying to reinstall it that is a PITA; cannot get the two screws to seat. I therefore remove both pieces, connect them together and reinstall; just as I did when it was new. Very poorly engineered, designed and manufactured. BTW; I do *love* my Tulsa windshield. It's almost like two children coming from the same parents with one of them a wonderful child and the other one somewhat less desirable...

Anyhoo, I B happy now! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
GarageLogic said:
I also need to perform the "Metal Plate Over The Cruise Control" fix. It is an annoying sound when the cruise is on in your helmet speakers. Just wondering..... instead of making a metal plate to eliminate the interferance, could some heavy duty aluminum foil work just as well? You know Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap? That way it could be mold better around the cruise control module.
Hi Gordy. I just printed out Fred's pictures along with his measurements of the plate and went to a local machine shop. $10 and two days later I had one made-fit like a champ. Heavy duty Reynolds Wrap may work, but I'd hate to chance it because of all the work necessary just to get at the modulater i.e. meter panel removal, top shelter removal, seat removal, both storage compartments and both side panels only to find out it didn't work.
If you do decide to use the aluminum foil let us know your results, okay? And good luck to you! Dang that ole electrical noise... :wink:
 

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BruceHarrisJr said:
It's trying to reinstall it that is a PITA; cannot get the two screws to seat. I therefore remove both pieces, connect them together and reinstall; just as I did when it was new. Very poorly engineered, designed and manufactured.
I've read that elsewhere,
and because of that
I ordered the new belly plan that Hal is now selling (after talking to AMC and having them convince me they put bigger "better" dzus fasteners on theirs).

I'll post back here after I install it and let you know if it's any better.

Dennis
 

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I have very little difficulty with my belly pan or the one on my wife's 1800. The secret, I believe is to lay on a creaper so you can see that the fastners are alligned with the holes.
 

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I also have the Tulsa belly pan. Took the front part off when I changed oil. On one side the dzus fastener lined up and tightened down with no problem. On the otherside the center piece of the dzus fastener was pushed up by my first attempt to secure it. I took a flat blade screwdriver and held that part down, then turned the fastener. Worked and I was able to get at the area through the corner - did need a flashlight to see what I was doing though. Needs a sturdier fastener. Definitely not aircraft quality.
 

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GarageLogic said:
could some heavy duty aluminum foil work just as well? You know Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap?
Last time I had mine apart, I made a cover for the cruise box by folding several layers of heavy duty Reynolds Wrap and molding it around the box. Didn't do a thing to get rid of the buzz.
 

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BruceHarrisJr said:
What a POS is the Tulsa Belly Pan to remove and reinstall for a simple oil change.
Sounds like maybe you need to adjust the rear section of the belly pan a bit so the front part fits better and aligned to the two screws that hold the front piece on. I had a similar problem on two pans I have installed. Loosen the screws holding the front part of the rear section and pull it toward he ground a little and re tighten the nuts holding the rear pan section.
 

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BruceHarrisJr said:
wingnutzz said:
On the Tulsa belly pan, you did just remove the front portion, right? I know the fasteners can be a little difficult, but should not be that bad for you unless something is not quite right.
Yes, I did initially remove just the front portion and it came right off. It's trying to reinstall it that is a PITA; cannot get the two screws to seat. I therefore remove both pieces, connect them together and reinstall; just as I did when it was new. Very poorly engineered, designed and manufactured.

Anyhoo, I B happy now! :)
Bruce ? Those fasteners will install with the flat towards you and the elongated end running parallel with the bike. I use a stubby flat blade just push up and turn. There is some force pushing up. You can also use a longer flat blade to hold th eedge of the fastener dwon and then push up with the other hand. Better yet ? If its just too hard ? When yo uhave the fornt off, crimp it closer together with channel locks or other type pliers. Once you get the hang of it they are really simple. At Cats-Cade I did my fair share of them......... :)
 
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