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Discussion Starter #1
I'm gathering info to do my winter project, which will include tightening all coolant hose clamps to stop leaks. I hate the smell of vaporized engine coolant! Can those of you who have done this please offer any advice/tips/tricks and cautions based on your experience?

I'll be using Fred's DVD's, the service manual, and this board as my guide. I understand you have to go pretty deep to get to all the hose clamps, removing the gas tank, etc. Any other pictorials would be appreciated too.

Thanks!
8)
 

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Run the gas tank pretty dry. It is easier than siphoning it out. Turn the clamps so that you can access them easier and be careful to note the position of the clamps in relationship to the hoses as you put it all back together so the screw doesn't rub a hose.

Good time to do the ground modification and a really good time to run some accessory power to the front. Other than that it is a piece of cake. I had to replace a radiator hose on my '05 because I stuck a pick through it lining up a screw with the front cowl. That hose goes all the way from the left radiator all the way back to the back of the top of the left head and fits on a nipple that is situated at about a 45 degree tilt. I did mine then. Might as well get something good out of something stupid. Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Ken. Good info. I'm a little confused about this, though:

winger52 said:
Turn the clamps so that you can access them easier and be careful to note the position of the clamps in relationship to the hoses as you put it all back together so the screw doesn't rub a hose.
Are you talking about turning the clamp on the hose? If you turn the clamp for better access, then tighten it, how do you put it back in the same position?

And, what ground modification are you talking about? I've had a continueing CB ERROR problem and that sounds worth a try to me. I use EC's ground block and and power distribution now, as seen here in the lower right corner of the photo.



Thanks for the info!
 

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Make sure you have an impact wrench handy. While pulling the air box below the filter I ran into a screw on the throttle body that was major stuck. I ended up putting the bike back together and attacked it another day after buying an impact wrench.

Fred's DVD made the job simple for me. I followed his advice about turning all the hose clamps for accessiblity and making a better ground.

Good luck! Its a fun task.
 

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Dealer tighten mine, no cost to me
 

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Wineberrywinger said:
Would this be covered under warranty, has anyone had the clamps tightened under the Honda warranty?
Yes
 

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I ran into a problem with a persistent seep from around the lower triple coolent fitting; the one next to the drive shaft boot. I finally had to remove the fitting and scrape the casting line or fins off of teh sealing surface. I also purchased NAPA hose clamps that had a wider range as the HOnda clamps were already bottomed-out. The three way fittings are the same part at top and bottom -- don't over tighten as they likely would crush. You can loosen the clamps and scoot them around n the hoses to get the fittings so you can rasch them easier. The bottom ones by the drive shaft boot are accessible from underneith the bike if you put the rear passenger guard bars on jack stands. It takes a lot of patience and determnatin to get to all of them. After you are through it still a long time for the odor to burn off, a few thousand miles.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Crys&DaveMagenta04 said:
Dealer tighten mine, no cost to me
salyzyn said:
Wineberrywinger said:
Would this be covered under warranty, has anyone had the clamps tightened under the Honda warranty?
Yes
With the amount of work it takes to get to all the hoses, I would have the dealer do it under warranty if that was the only thing needed to be done to my bike. But, This winter will involve a long list (see below) of maintenance, repairs , and modifications... some covered under warranty and some not. While my dealership is very good, I try to use them as little as possible for a few reasons.

If I can do a fix or repair myself, even if it's covered under warranty, I will, just because I hate tying my bike up at the dealer... getting it there... getting a ride home... getting back to pick it up. If it's something that can be done while I wait, I'll do that.

Also, I'm not comfortable with the dealer removing and reinstalling all my accessories. and working around my customizations and excess wiring under the seat and shelter.

And besides, it's just fun to work on my own bike. I like to know how the work was done, and getting a better understanding of this vehicle upon which I spend so much of my time is just satisfying to me.

Here's my winter "to do" list as it stands so far:

1. Remove and repair windshield tape
2. Tighten all coolant hoses
3. Top off rear pre-load adjuster
4. Adjust cruise control.
5. Replace air filter
6. Install All Balls steering bearings
7. Install Progressive front fork springs
8. Rebuild Anti-dive unit
9. Rebuild forks, replace seals and fork oil
10.Replace brake fluid
 

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Solo, I didn't worry about putting the clamps back in the same spot. I just put the screws so I could access them without moving a bunch of stuff. Fred has a good description of grounding. You will see the big stack of wires that ground to the aluminum frame while you are in the surgery suite. Basically it just amounts to taking a healthy wire from the ground post of the battery directly to the grounding stake on the frame. I imagine there are a lot of chemical reactions going on between the bolt metals and the aluminum frame. Aluminum and steel trade electrons at a pretty good rate and that causes corrosion. I didn't have any grounding issues when I started and don't have any now, but just thought it was a good time to do the mod. (Since I was there by my own stupidity to start with). Everyone is right, the dealer will tighten the clamps, but it is just plug and chug to get there and give something to eat up those rainy and snowy days coming up. Ken
 

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Pulling out the gas tank really is not hard to do. Once you have the top shelter off, the hard part is done. All you have to do is remove a few bolts and a couple hoses and electrical connectors, plug the holes in the top of the tank with something, and lift and roll it on it's side and work it out. I have done it with a completly full tank several times, though it is easier with less fuel.

The only real trick is getting the holes plugged so gas doesn't run out everywhere when you roll it.

If you look at the video you should be able to get some ideas how to plug the ouput hole and return hose. Once you have the tank off, this is a great time to check your shock and change your air filter, tighten hose clamps, check the G1 ground and do general clean up.
 

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I did this to my 02 last winter. It's not difficult at all. What took the most time was that I used some acrylic paint and color coded all the various sized screws that hold the shelter in place(had to let them dry. Put a dab on the screw and then a dab on the shelter where it goes.) The next time the shelter has to come off it probably won't take fifteen minutes.
I DO NOT trust the local dealer with my bike for any repair that I can do myself. They just seem to screw up too much stuff!!!
 

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papa benny said:
I DO NOT trust the local dealer with my bike for any repair that I can do myself. They just seem to screw up too much stuff!!!
My Yes answer above was to prevent me bleeding all over you folks. It hid a dark secret ....

Ok, ya dragged it out of me, I must admit, when I had the dealer fix my hoses, I spent nearly $30 on screws, clips & covers to replace the ones they stripped and lost. They also misplaced the gas tank vent hose which made the cockpit smell and added to the bad taste in my mouth. I write this off as the specific dimented [email protected]@$$ mechanic's fault, since previous services were not filled with so much trouble and fully expect your mileage will vary since I am sure there are some good mechanics & dealers out there ...

But one bad apple did cause me concern. The net result is I was weened off the dealer, never to trust them again. I did my 16K, 20K, 24K, 28K services to the letter and the book. I did my own 'warranty work since it cost me less to order the faulty parts from HDL than the gas and trouble the dealer would cause to go in. I just returned to the dealer three days ago for the first time since, as my seat tore along a seam prematurely requiring warranty replacement. That part cost more than the trouble ... just got the call my seat is in, however I did ask if *I* could bring my own tools and do the swap at the dealer and they approved.
 
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