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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
Rather than hijack a recently started thread, I just thought I'd start a new one if you don't mind.

I once had a 2005 wing several years ago. I've had a few bikes since then as I don't seem to keep them long...LOL (a sickness I have). My 2005 wing handled MUCH better than any bike of its weight should. It was incredible. It doesn't really matter what all the other bikes were, but the one I just traded in last night for a new left-over 2008 wing was a 2008 ST1300...also a fantastic bike to ride...just not the best for passengers...plus I missed a few of the things I once had on some of my touring bikes.

So, I'm riding the new bike home last night...45 minutes in about 20 degrees with some light snow with the usual garbage on the roads around this time...salt and anti skid stuff. Turns out my new wing has a bit of a wobble. It's not only when I decel and let go of the bars. It did it once or twice when I leaned it over in a turn WITH my hands on the bars...like on and off ramps.

Before bothering you guys with this, I did some post searching and came up with the following possibilities...

Bad front tire
Bad rear tire
Stem bearings

The most popular thing seems to be the All Balls fix. Do you think this would be the fix? If so, I usually do all of my own work and just wondered what kind of job it is to do. I've done a few stem bearings on other bikes, but none of them had so much body work to remove.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Russ
 

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In a brand new bike I would hope its the tires and not the stem bearing. Dunflop tires that come on the new wings are junk to start with so I would start with them. Go after the dealer and demand him change the tires as a new bike shouldn't wobble especially in turning a curve.
 

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So does mine!

I have an 08' bagger, purchased in August. It has had a subtle shake at low speed since the day I drove it off the lot. It is not the classic "decel wobble" that both of my previous 1800's had. I took it back to the dealer, they test rode it and said they couldn't feel it. I agreed that it was subtle but no joy. They were more than willing to replace one tire if it could be determined which one. I'm frankly unsure, it's just a shake you can barely feel. I personally think it is the rear tire. It is worse fully loaded two up. I had a high mileage Metxler rear that failed and gave a similar feel although much more severe. I now have over 8K miles and I can still feel it but it's no worse. I fully expect the problem will clear when I replace the tires, which won't be too far down the road. If the problem still exists with new rubber, then I and the dealer will have some more discussions. Post an update if you get a resolution to the problem from your dealer. Good Luck, Dave
 

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Since you seem to be a very aware rider, you should definitely plan on changing the steering bearings to All Balls roller bearings. It may not solve the whole problem, but it will definitely help and then you'll know that the tires are the next thing to try. It can be either the front tire or the rear tire or a combination of both. The dealer should be willing to swap tires with you until the problem is solved. And rest assured the problem can be solved, so don't accept any response like "they all do that" or that "you need to keep your hands on the bars."
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys,
I know that with my Harleys, you do the "fall away test" when this kind of thing happens. It sounds kind of cavemanish, but you jack the front wheel off the ground, put masking tape on the fender, and mark the fender where the wheel starts to fall away to the left and to the right. If the distance between your two marks is greater than what the book calls for, you need to tighten the stem bearings. I was kind of hoping that on the wing, maybe they just need to be tightened, but it sounds like guys are replacing them with the All Balls. Is it because there is no adjustment for this on the wing?

Thanks again.
 

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Thanks guys,
I know that with my Harleys, you do the "fall away test" when this kind of thing happens. It sounds kind of cavemanish, but you jack the front wheel off the ground, put masking tape on the fender, and mark the fender where the wheel starts to fall away to the left and to the right. If the distance between your two marks is greater than what the book calls for, you need to tighten the stem bearings. I was kind of hoping that on the wing, maybe they just need to be tightened, but it sounds like guys are replacing them with the All Balls. Is it because there is no adjustment for this on the wing?

Thanks again.
Hello there is adjustment BUT the wing comes with CHEAP BICYCLE TYPE steering head bearings...CHEAP.....................CHEAP... (sorry)..."all balls (brand name ) are a tapered roller bearing MUCH more "load" capacity & smoother working ..Also will not "dent" as easily as stockers............chuck
 
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Usually the simplest things are over looked or not checked . How is the tire pressure and is the tire bead properly seated ?
I would also suggest putting the bike up on the center stand and spin the front wheel to check for run out(wobble) and also make sure all the bolts are tight .
 

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" fall away test"

MatadorMkV, Would you please review this " test " for me again.

Thank's.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
MatadorMkV, Would you please review this " test " for me again.

Thank's.
Mistake in my post...if the distance between the marks is too SHORT, then the head bearings are loose.

Anyway, with the Harleys, you jack them up so the front wheel is off the ground and pointing straight ahead. You also have to set up some kind of stationary pointer above the center of your fender in a way so that it does not touch the fender. You begin to slowly push the tire to one side with your hand. After you go so far, the wheel will begin to start moving on its own and "flop" to the steering lock. At the point where it starts to move on its own, you mark the fender right where the pointer is. This will be to the side of the center. Then, you do the same thing in the other direction by slowly pushing the tire in the other direction. Put a mark on the fender right under your pointer. You then measure the distance between your two marks. If the distance is too short...your wheel started to "flop" on its own quickly, then the bearings are loose. If the marks are far away from each other...you had to push for a good while before the wheel started to move on its own, the bearings are too tight.

Like I said, sounds strange, but the procedure is right in the Harley shop manual. If you ask me, there are too many variables that could affect the measurement...like cables, hoses, wires, etc., but it seems to work for Harley...or at least they think it does.
 

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I would change the tires, put on ALL BALLS BEarings and the TRAXXION FORK BRACE
 

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The Harley test seems to be very plausible. Honda has a similar test for the GL1800 using a spring scale to measure the initial resistance to movement. That test counfounds some shade tree mechanics because the cables, wiring, and accessorites (such as tunnel fillers) can confound the results and it takes a very smooth and light spring scale such as the ones used by gunsmiths to set trigger pulls to give consistent readings. Honda also specifies in teh service manual two other simple tests for checking the steering bearings.

I do believe Honda selected ball bearins because they are less expensive and I do not believe they are of inferior quality. I do believe that the tapered type bearings are stronger and offer more internal resistance which imparts effective damping to can reduce vibratory inputs that result in ossillation of the stearing/frame at the resonant frequency of the bike. I have had a set of AllBalls in my supply box for my GL1800 and also for my VTX for several years; but so far my OE bearings are serving very well in form and function, retaining their proper pre-load very well too for over 70,000 miles on the GL18. If my bike wobbled on decel, then I would install the AllBalls pdq.

prs
 

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Usually the simplest things are over looked or not checked . How is the tire pressure and is the tire bead properly seated ?
I would also suggest putting the bike up on the center stand and spin the front wheel to check for run out(wobble) and also make sure all the bolts are tight .
AMEN! Do the simple stuff FIRST! To the above list, I would append "check tire balance."
 

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Discussion Starter #13
AMEN! Do the simple stuff FIRST! To the above list, I would append "check tire balance."
Without a doubt. The front tire pressure to begin with was a good bit lower than what I like to run, but I'll begin to check everything else tonight. You're both right though...sometimes it's as plain as the nose on your face, but instead, you attempt to rebuild a bike that has 25 miles on it!
 

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One far fetch idea, loose steering bearing that was not seated. My 03 was fine, rhode the NC hills and it needed a turn and half after that on the bearing. Only reason for this much play/ would be it finally seated. Five years later, 22k miles. Greased, smooth, and no issue since. Worth checking it, tires would be second look plus any possible missing weight on wheel balance.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys,
From work, I can't access BigBikeRiders, but I will be able to later on. Is there a sticky on that site or somewhere else that discusses how to remove dash, plastic, etc.? It's been a good while since I've done it, so I would need a refresher course. I just don't want to break tabs or anything like that.

Thanks!
 

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MatadorMkV, "PLEASE" do not jump in just yet. 25 miles?

There are other things to check. Use the scale test (3 lbs.).

Tires -- could be ether one. A club member may have spair tires mounted.

Ask dealer to try another tire/wheel. Check wheel/tire runout.

Nav/08 is not very easy to adjust the head bearings. And there is a risk

of damaging something when sailing unfamilier waters. Panel

is a pain. **** EDIT: The instrument panel with GPS SCREEN.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
MatadorMkV, "PLEASE" do not jump in just yet. 25 miles?

There are other things to check. Use the scale test (3 lbs.).

Tires -- could be ether one. A club member may have spair tires mounted.

Ask dealer to try another tire/wheel. Check wheel/tire runout.

Nav/08 is not very easy to adjust the head bearings. And there is a risk

of damaging something when sailing unfamilier waters. Panel meter

is a pain.
Nah...I have the "cheap" Premium Audio model...LOL!

I will do a lot of checking and riding before popping plastic stuff off.

Thanks man,
Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey guys,
I think I may have it! I happened to look at my front wheel and noticed that the wheel weight is right next to the valve stem, so I thought that maybe the wheel might be out of balance. I took the wheel off and put it on my balancing stand thinking that this area would go straight to the bottom, but no good. It seems like the wheel balance really isn't that bad.

I then decided to spin the wheel on the stand and that's when it became clear. My tire has a HUGE bump in it. It's almost as if the bead isn't seated, but it is. Everything else is true...the sidewall bead line, the wheel, etc. The tread portion of the tire just has a very sharp bump to it when you spin it. I'm just about positive that this is my problem. It can't be good, that's for sure. I'll give my dealer a call in the morning. Hopefully, since I have the wheel off already, they'll be able to mount a tire for me quickly and I'll be on my way. Let's hope.

Russ
 
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