[Soloquest]

I went to "break" the 30mm stem nut on my fork top brace, and it was loose... I mean not even hand tight. What's up with that?

This nut was loose: (Hope you don't mind I borrowed your pic, Fred)

At first I was alarmed that this was a dangerous condition that I was riding around with. But, there's a lock washer and another nut under there, so there was no real danger, right? :shock: :shock:

I think I recall that this nut is to be torqued to around 75 ft/lbs, so how could it have been loose?

I'm glad I'm doing this maintenence... I'm finding all sorts of loose and missing items.

 

[Bulldog]

Solo (aka Tim the toolman),

What kind of fancy tool is that you are using on the great big bad nut?

I want one of them, wait I have one already...LOL

You city boyz take the cake...>LOL

Dawg

 

[Max McAllister]

The potential damage would be that the bore of the upper triple clamp where it slides over the stem could be ovalled out some from beating for and aft against the stem. But it would take quite a few miles to do that I think.

If you find it to be sloppy I have a pile of mint used top clamps I can sell you a nice one cheap.

 

[Farmer Jack]

Loose stem nut... this can't be good

I 43000 miles I just installed the ALL BALLS in my steering head and found the slotted nuts both loose on my bike. The lower race showed divitts from the OEM balls. I installed the ALL BALLS in a friends bike a week later. Both slotted nuts were moderately snug, maybe 5 - 8 ft lbs torque. His lower races had such deep divitts from the OEM balls imbedded in the lower race it was self centering straight ahead and snapped back in the divitts when turned left or right and back to center.
Both set of bearings, his and mine, were well lubed, which surprised me after reading here of so many being dry or void of grease at the time of assy.
Can't wait to try it with the ALL BALLS installed and torqued up right.

Farmer Jack

 

[chuck_b24]

Re: Loose stem nut... this can't be good

I 43000 miles I just installed the ALL BALLS in my steering head and found the slotted nuts both loose on my bike. The lower race showed divitts from the OEM balls. I installed the ALL BALLS in a friends bike a week later. Both slotted nuts were moderately snug, maybe 5 - 8 ft lbs torque. His lower races had such deep divitts from the OEM balls imbedded in the lower race it was self centering straight ahead and snapped back in the divitts when turned left or right and back to center.
Both set of bearings, his and mine, were well lubed, which surprised me after reading here of so many being dry or void of grease at the time of assy.
Can't wait to try it with the ALL BALLS installed and torqued up right.

Farmer Jack

THIS is EXACTLY what is wrong with the stock (BICYCLE type bearings )!!! Way back in the OLD days (CB750) the bicycle bearings were replaced all the time!!!! Honda then went to tapered rollers UNTILL the GL 1800 ???WHY???.......................chuck

 

[storm]

Most common cause of accident - nut behind the wheel is loose.

 

[Teaser 1]

Most common cause of accident - nut behind the wheel is loose.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Pigeon Roost]

Harrrrrr! From one loose nut to anther; its always a good idea to go back and recheck your pre-load with a spring scale after you have riden a few thousand miles following a bearing/race change. Especially if you tapped the races into place and evidently even if pressed in at the factory, they tend to settle a bit with use. The pre-load test is simple and quick and if the pre-load is OK and function is smooth stop to stop, then you should be set to go.

prs