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:crew:I normally do most of the wrenching on my bike, at least as concerns the normal maintenance and upkeep. Some of the heavier stuff, like servicing the rear shock, putting new fork oil in, etc., my friend does for me. Well yesterday was the day! Dick serviced the rear shock preload actuator motor's oil level and installed new fork springs and oil. OK, so far so good. In the process of removing the front wheel and tire, I noticed that the tread that looked OK a few days ago was now down to the wear bars and I decided I needed new tires. A quick call to my dealer got me a good price break on a set of new Metzelers. Went home and proceeded to remove the front wheel and rear wheel. It's less expensive for the swap that way. That's when the "fun" began. The rear wheel is held on by 5 lugnuts. Four of the five came off just fine. The fifth refused to budge. In the process of attempting removal of said lugnut, I managed to break my 3/8" drive torque wrench (fortunately only a $12 item from Harbor Freight) and my only correct size deep socket! I also totalled a 12 point socket and made a mess of the lug nut. Fortunately a 6 point will still slip on and hold--it just broke, is all!
I have no idea why the one was on so tight, as I was the last one to torque it down to Honda specs. Personally, I think it had something to do with the fact that I failed to retrieve my road bell when I sold the Nomad. Yeah, that's it. Rats.

In the end, I had to reinstall the front wheel and put the other 4 lugnuts back on and ride the bike down to the dealer for the tire change. I rather suspect that they have the proper tools for removal of the stubborn lugnut. RATS!! So now I have to bear that cost and be out of my bike for a couple days while I wait for that. It was warm yesterday--about 80-- and I was hot and sweaty and frustrated. So I did the only logical thing to ease the pain: I went to Corona Village restaurant and drowned my sorrows in a plate of enchiladas and a basket of chips with salsa. Then I came home and poured myself a nice cold glass of one of my favorite dark beers.
 

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You used a torque wrench to remove a lug nut?
 

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Sears Craftsman 1/2 inch breaker bar 6 point deep well socket or regular socket with a short extension,
cheater pipe if required.
Store in saddle bag at all times.
 

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High Torque and 12 point sockets do not play well together

Also Torque wrenches should not be used in that fashion, as it could screw up the settings, especially on the cheap ones... :cool:

right tool for the right job :thumbup:
 

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I hate it when I am removing something that has multiple bolts and one, just one, decides it aint coming off. I am always afraid of either messing up the bolt or threads. I got a coffee cup and holder for the Wing that I was mounting to the clutch reservoir mmmmm do hicky. That’s the technical name I don’t remember the untech name is. But one bolt came out very nicely and the other…. Well lets say I did things to an allen wrench that you aren’t suppose to do to one
 

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Funny you post this, I had the same problem getting my rear off on Saturday. My 1/2" drive ratchet is only about 10" long. Last nut would not come off.
After pulling my back out, I called a freind who had about a 20" long 1/2"
drive breaker wrench. Came off like butter. The longer the wrench the
more torque can be applied. I will now go buy one for the future...
 

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Sears Craftsman 1/2 inch breaker bar 6 point deep well socket or regular socket with a short extension,
cheater pipe if required.
Store in saddle bag at all times.

I was carrying this type set up but replaced it with a much lighter lug wrench with the folding socket head I found in an old car. Take a trip to a junk yard you can pick it up for about a buck or less.

It will also double as a cheater for anything else that gets over torqued for whatever reason.

See you out there
Smokey
 

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Gregg - you shoulda called. A quick trip with the rattle gun and we would have had it off. Of course I would not use it to go back on.
 

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Check the below from Harbor Freight. Best thing I have ever used to remove stuborn lug nuts.

Torque Multiplier/Lugnut Remover
ITEM # 93645 MANUFACTURER: PITTSBURGH

Lug nut removal tool: An easier way to change a flat tire: use this torque multiplier/lug nut remover

Only: $21.99
Sale: $19.99
Qty:
Add to Wishlist
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I use 6 pt impact sockets for about everything, they grip well and won't round off nuts & you aren't going to break them with hand tools. Agree on never using a torque wrench to loosen tight nuts, breaker bar works much better for that.
 

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I always break the nuts loose first with all them on still tight so there is a load all the way around the bolt pattern.

Taking each one off after breaking it loose puts a tighter hold on the remaining ones.
 

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A lot of good advice was posted, but I'm surprised nobody mentioned WD-40. Whenever I run into a frozen nut, I give it a couple sprays of WD-40 and let it sit for a minute or two. If that doesn't work, then I spray it again and let it sit for a couple minutes.

The right tool for the right job and if you still can't get it loose, WD-40 to unfreeze the nut...
 

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WD-40 may work in some cases but it is not a penetrating oil. PB Blaster is much better for that. However, in this case the problem was not using the proper tools for the job.
 

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Danger there is a new gremlin out there..... I changed out the rear brake pads since it is going to rain for three days here. I use a deep well socket and my good old 1/2 breaker bar to loosten before I put wing on the jack. 3rd nut gave a funny noise and then the socket did not seem to work. I had cracked a 1/2 drive socket. Craftsman gave me a new one this afternoon. I swaped over to the impact socket. The nuts were so gummed up I put them in CLR while I did the brake job and got all the goop off.

There is a honda gremlin out there brakeing sockets look out it will get you...
 

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Some say not to, some say I will crash and burn, but I use sparingly anti seize on those lug stems. Not a lot, just a light coating.

Also never try to take them off if the rear wheel is hot. Let it cool first.
 
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