[Sam Jones]

Max,

In a recent post you said

"With our AK-20 kit, we actually shorten the forks internally about 3/8", and then we install them onto the bike about 3/8" lower. This helps maintain the original geometry, and light steering feel, while benefitting from significantly restored travel."

Does this mean that if we are installing your forks with the AK-20 kit at home we shoud be slide them "3/8" FARTHER into the clamps? (or "3/8" LESS far into the clamps)?

Thanks,

 

[Max McAllister]

Max,

In a recent post you said

"With our AK-20 kit, we actually shorten the forks internally about 3/8", and then we install them onto the bike about 3/8" lower. This helps maintain the original geometry, and light steering feel, while benefitting from significantly restored travel."

Does this mean that if we are installing your forks with the AK-20 kit at home we shoud be slide them "3/8" FARTHER into the clamps? (or "3/8" LESS far into the clamps)?

Thanks,

That's a good question...

Actually we will install them with 10mm from the top edge of the fork cap down to the top of the triple clamp.

This is actually doubling the 3/8". We do this to keep the bike "close" to the stock ride height. When we put proper springs in the bike it lifts the nose up significantly, so that is why we are mechanically adjusting some to compensate.

We have found that most wing riders can tell the bike steers heavy if we don't do this.

If you are a tinkerer, you can experiment with what front ride height you like the best. You can move up or down 15mm easily without anything interfering with anything.

 

[Pigeon Roost]

:shock: Dang Max! What is your mailing address so that I can send by tuition check? :wink:

I currently have Progressive front springs in stock forks and Probressives heavier spring on my OE rear shock. I also use the slightly taller 70 rear Avon "tyre". I accomplished the rear spring exchange first and it DID set my ass up too high and made the bke twitchy and "light headed". Then I upgraded the front with new sliders, bushings, the Progressive springs a new OE type oil. When I reinstalled the front forks I put them back they way my bike had been set-up before delivery to me; the tops of the front fork tubes were a bit higher than the top bridge (about 6mm up) and the cap was even higher than that. I noticed teh shop manual indicated the fork tube tops were to be even with the top of the fork clamps of the bridge, so I followed the book. When done, the bike was rock solid again, better than ever. I figured part of the improvement was getting rid of the out of spec (too short) OE springs, but speculated raising the fornt that little bit in the bridge to better match the taller rear was a big help too.

Since the Avon 70 rear raises my rear ride height a bit, it seems to me that using the stiffer springs and by the book fork level in the bridge would pretty much give me the original front to rear height ratio -- taller over all, but still at about the same front to back degree of levelness.

Anyways, I figure I will be riding on down to Georgia one of these days...