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Discussion Starter #1
:( Sad to report that the new Metzler tires still Wobble. Just a quick question Purchaced the set from Honda Direct Line waited 2 months for the frt does HDL handle the problem tire or does Metzler? Both tires mounted and balanced this past weekend. Thanks in advance. :) :sw1: :sw1: :sw1:
 

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I'd contact Jeff at Metzler first. He might send you in the right direction without needing to go through Directline.

Somebody around here has his number. I threw the number away since I'll never be a Metzler customer again! :D
 

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Do a double check on the rim/tire level. Check to see the tire is uniformily around the rim? Slim chance the tire is not seated correctly?
 

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Now this is a serious question. I am not in any way trying to insult anyone.

I really do not know just what you mean by tire wobble. I imagine you are talking about the handlebars shaking? Is this at all speeds or does it come and go at different speeds.

My original tires now have 12,390 miles on them. If I have a loose grip on the handlebars while slowing down, at about 25-30 MPH I can feel a shake in them. Is this what you all are referring too? The front tire is cupped a little and I have plenty of tread left on it. I contributed this shake to the cupping. Am I correct about this?

Any explanations that make sense would greatly be appreciated. I hope all of this mumbo makes sense. Sometimes trying to put words in print to get the correct meaning across can be difficult.

Thank you.
 

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I really don't understand all this talk of wobble with the Metzeler's???

I'm on my 2nd front and 3rd rear Metzeler tires and have had absolutley no wobble with any of them...........could I be this lucky?

I'm really beginning to believe it's not the tires and is some other lurking issue(s) with either the bike or the install/balance of the tires.

Tire Balancing?
Tire mounting?
Steering stem adjustment?
Steering stem bearings?
Fork alignment
Tire pressures
Fork issues
????????

IMHO the Metzeler's are the best tire currently available for the 1800.................I've had absolutley no issues with them.
 

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I really don't understand all this talk of wobble with the Metzeler's???
Brian....It's not that your lucky, it's just that some of us are unlucky! LOL!! It's not the bikes, it's the tires. My 18 is steady as rock at any speed going up or down without any hands on the bars. Never any signs of a head shake before or after the Metzlers. The Metzlers I had would wobble from zero on up to about 50. They would shake real bad from 40 down! :(

The only time I got a small amount of shake from the Stones has been when they were almost gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tire wobble

:( When describing as a tire wobble it happens around 35 to 40 mph on decel can feel it thru the handle bars, really bad if I take a hand off one of the bars, Preasures ok steering stem ok and balances out ok and thanks for the help guys. The Metzlers really handle great but the decel wobble is really annoying. :( :sw1: :sw1: :sw1:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Metzler tire wobble

joewinger said:
Contact Jeff at 1-800-PIRELLI. Tell him your problem he treated me right. Good luck.
Thanks Joe I really appreciate the info I will contact Jeff tomorrow on the tire problem, it just seems to me Metzler still has a tire problem. :sw1: :sw1: :sw1:
 

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I took a tip from Ron Melton and a few other board members, make sure to use plenty of tire lube when mounting tires and these metzlers are the smoothest tires I ever had on a 1800 in 93,000 miles. Bought a gallon of tire lube at NAPA for $6. I am sure this won't solve all the wobble problems but it might solve some. I have also had good results in the past after properly adjusting steering head bearings.
 

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Just in case it applies to you, I had the wobble on 2 different rear Metz tires. One was bad the other mild. The one I am on now is perfect.

When I go on a long trip in the summer and ride in the rain and pick up mud in the rear wheel (and it holds a lot) I believe that it effects the balance of the rear wheel. It has been at this point that I have complained about wobble but since I clean the hell out of the wheel before I take it in for a tire change they start out great. On the really bad wobbling tire it started at 400 miles and a clean wheel but it got worse as I rode the bike and picked up mud. The second tire never got real bad but it did get worse with more miles. The third tire has 6,000 miles on it and is perfect, the best I could ask for. But I have no mud caked in the wheel either.

I have not had another wobble but if I get one I am pulling the wheel and cleaning out the mud from the wheel. This is just a guess but it really bothered me when I thought of it after changing out the last tire.
 

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I've got the same wobble with my original Dunlops from day one with decel at 40 mph (10K on them now) I'm going to check into the steering head bearings.
 

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I think it is "partly" the bike. My original
Bridgestones are cupped at 11,700.
My decelaration wobble would tip the
bike if you didn't keep at least one hand
on the bars. I had a Kawasaki Vulcan
1500 once (not the Nomad) that had the
same decelaration wobble. Maybe it is
a combination of both bike & tire.

I am more worried about slipping in the
rain, and this board says Dunlops do that.
 

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Metzler wobble

I had absolutely no decel wobble until I reached 30,000 miles on my 01 1800. Brigestones and Dunlops both wobbled and cupped. The Dunlops cupped very badly, both front and rear. I changed to Metzlers @ 40,000 miles and still had the wobble. I could even feel the wobble while decelerating from 45 mph with my hands firmly on the grips. The wobble was so severe with hands loose that I'm convinced I would crash if hands were left off.

I Talked to Gary Verhulst of Verhulst Bikes & Trikes at Wings over the smokies and he claimed to have a fix. After a short discussion, I purchased a set of "ALL BALLS" gl1800 tapered steering head bearings and installed them as per Gary's instructions. That completely stopped the wobble. If you can live with the wobble, great. If you want to stop it, change the steering bearings to tapered bearings.

I love the Metzlers. They are the smoothest, best gripping and most confidence inspiring tires I've used to this point. While I had the forks off, I replaced the springs with progressives and also replaced the rear spring with a progressive. The bike handles and rides far better than it ever has and I'm totally satisfied with the ride and handling since the bearing and spring upgrade.

I have some notes on the bearing replacement procedure if anyone is interested.

Greg Bailey
Newnan, GA.
 

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Bearing replacement to stop wobble...

Hey Greg
Thanks for the info on replacing the bearings to stop the wobble. Does anyone else have experience with this remedy?? Seems it would be great to get in front of this problem once and for all.
Greg, can you give us more info on how to obtain these tapered bearings, and how difficult the replacement??
 

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Winger11 said:
:( Sad to report that the new Metzler tires still Wobble. Just a quick question Purchaced the set from Honda Direct Line waited 2 months for the frt does HDL handle the problem tire or does Metzler? Both tires mounted and balanced this past weekend. Thanks in advance. :) :sw1: :sw1: :sw1:
You may want to look at this post.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 12:28 pm Post subject: Wobble- Fixed !!!

Hope it helps.
 

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Wobble

I've had 4 Wings (78, 83, 96, 2002) with several tire changes.....ALL have had the 30-40mph wobble with hands off the bars. Inlcuding my new set of Metzelers.
 

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I go with goldwinggreg on this one. It isn't a wobble, it's a head shake. The ball bearings Honda changed to do not allow sufficient preload to avoid the shake. The cure is to convert to tapered roller bearings (by allballs racing) like Gary Verhurst says and adjusting to the correct preload (drag). I have only driven my new 04 90 miles but will be changing to Metzlers (no dunflops for me) and installing tapered roller bearings. Not that I think it is a good idea, but I guarantee I will be able to ride no hands at any speed.

BTW, this problem is an old one... They were converting the original Wings way back when... Many other brands have the same shake. The problem was eliminated in the 1500s when Honda switched to tapered roller bearings although proper adjustment was required. For unknown reasons, Honda switched back to the ball bearings for the 1800s.
 

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Steering bearing replacement

For those who've asked, I'll paste below info I sent another rider who has done the change on several bikes. He goes by the handle of "Buckskin" on the gl1800.org board.

Greg
*******************************

The only source I've found for the bearing kit is Verhulst bikes n trikes: http://verhulstbikes-n-trikes.com/ about $50.00 plus shipping.


When I recently put Metzlers on the bike, it helped the wobble considerably over the Dunlops I was running, but it still wobbled and I was sure it would get worse as the tires wore. The Dunlops cupped badly both front and back and the wobble was violent if left alone.

I have a cycle lift. I took the front wheel, fenders, brakes etc and removed the forks. You'll need the forks off to work with the bearings, (maybe you could do it with the forks on, but taking them off was not a problem. Follow the manual for removal of brake stuff. You don't have to disconnect any brake hoses but you have to unbolt the anti dive from the left fork. Remove the two upper bolts. If you remove the four lower anti dive bolts, the fork fluid will come out. I had planned to change the fork springs and it was pretty easy with the forks out. I was surprised at how nasty the fork oil was. You may want to check yours.

As for the special tool for the top fork nuts, I had a friend who had purchased one to re torque his and I borrowed it. I saw a home made one (picture) on one of the web posts. He made it by welding some prongs to a large socket.


As far as the replacement of the races, there are two indentions, oposite each other, in the top and bottom of the frame castings that allow you to drive out the old races. You remove the lower race from the top and upper race from the bottom. I took an 18 inch long, 3/4 inch steel rod that I ground perfectly flat on one end, then lightly sanded the sharp edge. I then carefully drove the races out at the indentions. They came out pretty easily, just be careful to drive them out slowly and evenly while not allowing the rod to come into contact with the machined race area of the frame.

To drive in the races, I found the closest (but larger) large socket to the outside diameter of each race and ground the socket until the outside diameter of the socket was just slightly smaller than the O.D. of the bearing race. I then drove them in, being careful to keep them straight and perfectly square with the machined holes in the frame. It is critical that the races are fully seated.

To remove the bearing from the steering stem, I used a dull chisel and carefully pounded it off. You are then past the point of no return as you will damage the lower bearing driving it off. A bearing puller, if available, would probably protect the old bearing.

Work plenty of grease into the bearings before intstalling, then more just before inserting back into frame.

I used a piece of PVC pipe that was close to the ID of the bearing to press it in. I used a wood block on the top of the pipe, then carefully drove it into place with gentle blows with a hammer. It went on pretty easily. If you have access to a press, that probably would be easier.

Gary instructed me to torque it to 29 ft lbs, which I did. I slightly over torqued it and loosened it a couple times to make sure it was fully seated, then torqued it to 29 lbs.

Absolutely no wobble since the change.
 

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Bob C wrote:

The problem was eliminated in the 1500s when Honda switched to
tapered roller bearings although proper adjustment was required. For
unknown reasons, Honda switched back to the ball bearings for the 1800s.
Good question, why is that Honda? I didn't think the wobble was
"all" the fault of the tire. Excellent posting this was. Great board! :D
 
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