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Discussion Starter #1
I apparently mixed up the right bolts that go down the sides of the top shelter under the press-fit cover strips. The service manual is vague on which of the hex bolts goes in which hole. Is there any place that has a key to placement of these eight different bolts?
 
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There is more detail if you look at a parts fiche. Partzilla, et al. Look at measurements in the nomenclature.

I know the bottom bolt is short, the the next one up a little longer, the third one (picks up the control panels) is I think the longest. The two top corners are medium-ish again but I think they're different. The top dead center is shortish.

I know that's vague. It's all I've got.

There's 6 each side. Unless I've been drinking too much just now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks but not specific enough to avoid stripping speednuts attached to fairing.

There are different diameters lengths and shoulders
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Got it figured out. I did the cardboard method, to begin with, but got them mixed-up anyway! So now back to our regularly scheduled programming!

Thanks,

David
 

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For many years I have been using a short piece of 2x6 lumber with holes drilled in it, 1 hole for each bolt so I can’t mix them up, it’s actually been a pretty cheap and simple method to keep them organized and I use it every time I take it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For many years I have been using a short piece of 2x6 lumber with holes drilled in it, 1 hole for each bolt so I can’t mix them up, it’s actually been a pretty cheap and simple method to keep them organized and I use it every time I take it apart.
Great idea, I’m going to do it!

David
 

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Shoulder on bolt should equal the thickness or a little more of the plastic it is to fit through. Bolts do have different length shoulders.
The key is the size of the shoulder. A small shoulder is holding only one piece of plastic. A shoulder double that size, yes you guessed it holds two pieces of plastic together. ETC. ETC.
 
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motorcycle cowboy
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For many years I have been using a short piece of 2x6 lumber with holes drilled in it, 1 hole for each bolt so I can’t mix them up, it’s actually been a pretty cheap and simple method to keep them organized and I use it every time I take it apart.
Do you have any idea of the number of times you've had the shelter apart on that yellow Wing?
 

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Think this was a Fred H. suggestion from waaaay back, probably his first 1800.
Starting at the bottom, each side, hash marks l, ll, lll, llll, lllll, with a Sharpie. Over time numbers can become indistinct and the hash marks have worked for me on my 03 and now my 10 and they have been off quite a few times.

I have a small box, think it was the electrolye container box from my first battery that I have made holes in, one side is the front fairing windshield dash panel and the other is the trunk lid underside cover.

I even have some few holes on each short side, last time I removed the trunk lid too at the same time I had the under cover off.
 
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When u finally get them in their correct holes get a sharpie and number them starting with #1 on the bolts shoulder at the top and increasing #s down for future reference.

I just used a piece of cardboard to keep them straight...
 

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I apparently mixed up the right bolts that go down the sides of the top shelter under the press-fit cover strips. The service manual is vague on which of the hex bolts goes in which hole. Is there any place that has a key to placement of these eight different bolts?
I couldn't find it for your 2008, but did for my 2004 (which I believe is same).
You can find it on the honda parts fische under "Shelter"

90106-MBY-000
SCREW, SPECIAL (5X12)


 
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Shoulder on bolt should equal the thickness or a little more of the plastic it is to fit through. Bolts do have different length shoulders.

Wrong! The shoulder must always be Less than whatever (plastic) that it's clamping. If it's the same or Longer, then the (plastic) is free to move along the axis of the bolt.


I recently had this happen when installing a rubber spacer ("Timbren") on my truck suspension... the supplied bolt shoulder was 1-thread Longer than the joint being clamped... which resulted in a Loose Assembly when all torqued up! I swapped the bolt for one with shoulder just a tad shorter, and presto, it became Clamped-Solid!
 
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Early GL1800 shelter screw placement reference.
Starting at the bottom of the shelter on either side working your way up and around the top;

Screw, pan 6x14, silver, long shoulder, holds two pieces of plastic, fits horizontally,
Screw, pan 5x12, silver, short shoulder,
Screw, pan 5x19, silver, long shoulder, this screw holds the control panel, holds two pieces of plastic,
Screw, pan 5x12, silver, short shoulder, this is in the top corner
Screw, pan 6x14, black, short shoulder, not used on 2001 through 2005 models
Screw, pan 6x14, silver, long shoulder, this screw holds two pieces of plastic next to the forks.

(The numbers represent the diameter and length of the screws measured in millimeters. For example, 6x14 represents a 6mm diameter screw that is 14mm long measured from under the head to the end of the screw. The shoulders are different lengths to provide space for one or more pieces of plastic. The tool used to drive these screws is a 5mm hex, sometimes called an Allen wrench. The size of the tool used to drive the screw and the diameter of the screw are not necessarily the same.)
 

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^ thanks, @Len.

I'm going to check mine against that. For my own sanity if nothing else. I could have sworn my bottom screw is the small one.

I know the guy that did my suspension upgrade mixed them all up on my old bike, but I had numbered them before. I hope they didn't get mixed up on my new (used) bike because I just numbered them all in their current spots.
 

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...(The numbers represent the diameter and length of the screws measured in millimeters. For example, 6x14 represents a 6mm diameter screw that is 14mm long measured from under the head to the end of the screw. The shoulders are different lengths to provide space for one or more pieces of plastic...

Yet the Unknown Remains, in the form of the Shoulder Length... which so far, nobody is able to figure out from the PN.


Using the example of "6x14", how do you know what Shoulder Length that is (from the PN), or Should Be (from measuring a sample bolt)?
 

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Wrong! The shoulder must always be Less than whatever (plastic) that it's clamping. If it's the same or Longer, then the (plastic) is free to move along the axis of the bolt.


I recently had this happen when installing a rubber spacer ("Timbren") on my truck suspension... the supplied bolt shoulder was 1-thread Longer than the joint being clamped... which resulted in a Loose Assembly when all torqued up! I swapped the bolt for one with shoulder just a tad shorter, and presto, it became Clamped-Solid!
Isn't the shoulder there to keep from clamping and possibly breaking the plastic?
 
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