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Discussion Starter #1
I will soon be installing my new Progressive Monotubes (front forks are sagging and need some TLC) and wanted to replace all the fork components that are normally replaced when you rebuild front forks. I’m thinking that when I install the Monotubes, I should also replace the parts that get worn like the bushings, seals, and retainer clips that will remain on the forks in conjunction with the Monotubes. (Just F.Y.I. I have a 2012 Non-ABS Model with 45K on the clock).

After receiving my Monotubes and comparing the shop manual’s normal fork rebuild instructions against the Monotube installation instructions, I came up with the following list of parts that I think would be best to replace while doing my upgrade.

51405-MB7-611RING, STOPPER
51412-KZ3-003RING, BACK-UP
51412-MCA-A61RING, BACK-UP
51414-MFR-671BUSH, GUIDE
51415-MFR-671BUSH, SLIDER
51437-MCA-003RING, PISTON
51447-KZ3-003RING, OIL SEAL STOPPER
51490-MCA-S41SEAL SET, FR. FORK
51490-MFR-671SEAL SET, FR. FORK
I just wanted to know from those of you who have done the Monotube install, is there anything you think I am missing “part-wise” or that you would suggest replacing while I have the forks apart…?:?;):?
 

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You'll need fork oil (Honda SS8.) and I would consider getting a Motion Pro Seal Driver, it makes installation a breeze. Something like a graduated cylinder to accurately measure the fork oil will come in handy also.
 

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Several places, like WingStuff.com have a kit that has everything you need, put together in one bag. Pick your model bike, click and pay. Can't say without looking up part numbers, but there are steel rings that do not need replaced. I think those are on your list. Of course, you need the oil.

Depending on miles, you will have the brakes off, so if pads are about due, knock it out. I decided that the job would have me 80-85% of the way in to replacing the steering stem bearings so I did the All Balls roller bearings while I had it down.


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I called buckskin got forks completely rebuilt sent to me I returned my old forks nothing could be easier. Bought his triple tree best improvement to the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmmmm.... Piston Rings?

Several places, like WingStuff.com have a kit that has everything you need, put together in one bag. Pick your model bike, click and pay.
I looked at the wingstuff.com, but their kit has no "Piston Rings" which are required on the Left side monotube am I missing something? Also, don't think I need the drain Bolts or Large Top O rings as the Monotubes have them already.
Thanks for the replies, keep em coming!

Wing Stuff Kit contains:
2 - 51414MFR671 Glide Bushings
2 - 51415MFR671 Slider Bushings
1 - 51490MCAS41 Left Side Fork Seal Kit with Dust Seals
1 - 51490MFR671 Right Side Fork Seal Kit with Dust Seals
1 - 90116KV3701 Left Side 8mm Drain Bottom Socket Bolt*
1 - 90116393721 Right Side 8mm Drain Bottom Socket Bolt*
2 - 90544283000 Drain Washer For Socket Bolts (both sides)
2 - 91356MWO003 O-Ring 37.2x2.4 For Both Large Top Fork Bolts*
 

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GET the bushings and seals. the rest will be good. get new washers for the lower bolts (copper ). make sure you follow the monotube instructions for oil a d NOT the honda manual. if you are under 200 lbs then you DO NOT NEED THE SPACER. unless you ride VERY hard.also make sure your tubes are lined up when reinstalling by using your front axle. if it slides in easy ,you're lined up well. ic you have to move a slider to install it,radjust the tube height until it matches. oil level is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT if you err, err on the LOW SIDE. overfill will cause lockup and seal popping.
 

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I do believe the "piston rings" are steel and reused. The kit has everything needed and is cheaper than all the parts individually. Build a baby sling shot with the 2 extra O-rings.

Something you can do now or later is consider disabling the ADV. With the improved suspension, a lot of us do not want the ADV locking the suspension. And some of us believe it is a possible culprit for blown seals. That is easy to do or undo later if you want to try it both ways.
 

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I just finished installing my monotubes and did a rebuild at the same time. Seals, sliders, bushings, dust covers and a spacer to disable the anti dive unit.
 

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Motion Pro Fork Oil Level Tool

I'm getting one of these for my next oil change. Obviously there are less expensive ways to accomplish the same thing, but I'm a sucker for tools.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HIAomp_rpQ
 

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Your signature shows Monotubes. You do not set the oil level on Monotubes by height but by the volume specified by Progressive. It works real nice on setting up conventional forks and I believe Traxxion forks are set by height.

And Colfog, if ever you wanted a hex bolt to have nice crisp edges, it would be on the fork bolts. For the money its cheap insurance the bolts will be more easily removed next time.

John
 

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some tips (just did mine last month along with a new billet triple clamp)
1) loosen the top "bolt" on each fork leg ( 17mm, don't worry if you round off the corners...you get new "bolts" with the mono kit) while it is still clamped the triple clamps (1 turn should do it) ...it's hard to do once the leg is off the bike and sitting on a bench
2) you'll need a 3 1/2" (long) piece of 6mm allen wrench to loosen the bottom bolt...it's almost impossible to loosen it by hand...adapt it up from a 1/4" drive socket to 3/8" or 1/2"drive ( don't waste time) and use an impact wrench
3) I used a ABS ( black) coupler for 1 1/2" plastic sewer pipe (Home Depot) to drive the seals in...it fit over the fork tube , but fit inside the lower leg
4) a baby bottle works to measure the fork oil...Note: it is a different value ( amount) in each leg...read the instructions take your time and don't get them mixed up
5) when re-installing the legs into the triple clamps, leave the top triple clamp "center nut" loose to allow the top triple clamp to "float" a little so that both legs are installed in the top triple clamp before you tighten the center nut...hope this helps
 

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So long ago...

Your signature shows Monotubes. You do not set the oil level on Monotubes by height but by the volume specified by Progressive. It works real nice on setting up conventional forks and I believe Traxxion forks are set by height.

And Colfog, if ever you wanted a hex bolt to have nice crisp edges, it would be on the fork bolts. For the money its cheap insurance the bolts will be more easily removed next time.

John
Thanks, John. It's been so long since I changed over the tubes so I did not remember that detail. I read about the tool in Motorcycle Consumer News and "assumed" it would work with the Monotubes as well as stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hex Bolt

And Colfog, if ever you wanted a hex bolt to have nice crisp edges, it would be on the fork bolts. For the money its cheap insurance the bolts will be more easily removed next time.

John
I am all for a "Little Insurance", as I have an old friend called "Murphy" and he likes to visit a lot.... So, anytime I can at least extend the time between his visits the better! :thumbup:

Thanks to all for your input, it has given me many ideas on what to expect and look for, I have more confidence in how to do this now and will keep what you have shared in mind.......
This forum is an awesome resource!
 

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I just finished installing my monotubes and did a rebuild at the same time. Seals, sliders, bushings, dust covers and a spacer to disable the anti dive unit.
I did the same...and was amazed at the difference. Certainly enhances the ease of handling.
 

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Murphy is a bad, bad boy!
 

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The important parts to replace are the seals and all four bushings. The dust caps come with the seals when you order them, as they are sold as pairs. You don't need to replace any of the back up rings, and you can remove the piston ring off the damper rod and reuse it on the monotubes.

It's also a good idea to order new lower bolts and copper crush washers. Everything else can be reused. Once in a while a clip will get frozen in and you'll break it getting it out, so having a new clip available wouldn't hurt, but you probably won't need it.
 
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