GL1800Riders Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,614 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Each Mick-O-Peg consists of 5 major components. Most parts are not interchangeable (right & left). These instructions are for the K/A, K/D or K/L blocks but also work for pretty much any model. [Remember that models D, E and L are mounted parallel to the ground while the K/_ models are mounted at an angle.]

The pictures are of the left side of the bike. Because the left engine guard is farther back than the right, place the left mount about 1/2 inch forward of the right. Since the angles of the right & left blocks are the same and the legs are the same length [except for Model C] - it is easiest to make your measurements from the pivot bolt the get the pegs even...except Model C.

Sorry about the blurring, but I think you can get it.


1. Remove the single pivot bolt (3/16” Allen) from the center of the cover of one block.



2. Remove the cover and spring. (Since the cover fits over roll pins, you may need to pry it off.)



3. Maintain a light coat of grease under the cover to reduce friction. Keep dirt out.

4. Loosen the two (3/16” Allen) recessed mounting bolts to remove the clamp. [Model C also has two 7/16" (11 mm) hex head bolts.]



5. Slip the clamp behind the engine guard. (Engine guards of some 88-97 GWs are too close to the engine and may need to be pried away.)



6. When mounting the block, do not tighten the mounting bolts completely so the block may be moved.



7. With the peg attached to the leg, without the cover, mount the leg (and peg) to the block using the center bolt or a short 1/4X20 bolt. [I use a shoulder bolt…below.] If you use the pivot bolt provided, DON'T SCREW IN IN ALL THE WAY because it may protrude through the block and damage your engine guard. Notice that the center hole in the block goes all the way through.





8. Move the block to your preferred position: consider comfort in the down position and room around your boot; in the up position, does it clear the engine guard or do you need to place a sticky-backed rubber on the engine or guard where the peg makes contact; do they interfere with your boot in the up position? Do you want them mounted level or rotated a bit? K/_ models will need to be mounted @ 25-35 degrees. When you think you have the desired angle, tighten the mounting bolts enough to hold your foot in place when on peg. Sit on bike and check position. If needed, loosen enough to rotate block, tighten again until desired position discovered. This can be done without removing the leg. If the block STICKS to the engine guard, use the leg, attached with the center bolt, to pry the block off the guard instead of trying to knock it off.




9. When position discovered, tighten the two mounting bolts (Model C has 4). Some engine guards are out of round so the Mick-O-Peg block may fit very tightly. [See the note at the end of #8 if the block sticks to the engine guard.] At first, you may have a gap, but you should be able to gradually tighten the clamp. [CAUTION: If you used the pivot bolt provided and have it screwed in without the cover, the threaded end of the bolt may make contact with your engine guard and cause damage.] Remove the pivot bolt and leg.

10. With the spring in the cover, place the exposed end of the spring into the upper, small hole of the leg. (If using our small pegs with our heavy springs, use the bottom hole.) Put the pivot bolt through the cover and leg. [All Heavy Spring Models have two small holes, standard models have just one small hole]




The Heavy Spring models should look like the first picture below...almost squared up. If it looks like the second picture, you have the spring in the wrong hole.




11. Mount the cover and leg to the block. Only finger tighten the pivot bolt, then back it off 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Keep the leg against the cover so the spring stays in the hole.




12. At this point, it is helpful to have someone hold the heavy Kury pegs in place or just remove them. Rotate the cover to pre-load the spring, which will lift the leg. [CAUTION: Once the leg is up, the cover only needs to turn until it is square with the block. Don't try to go another 180 degrees or you'll damage the spring.] This is harder to do when using the HS version for the Kury pegs. [Rotate counterclockwise on the left and clockwise on the right.] The two roll pins in the block should fit into the holes of the cover to hold it square.



13. While holding cap in place, tighten the cover bolt completely. If you over tighten the cover bolt, you may experience binding. Just back it off a little.

14. Repeat procedures 1-13 on the other Mick-O-Peg assembly for the other side of your bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Dude we could mount those in about 15 minutes. Doesnt it stink what Honda did to our beloved Valkyrie????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
733 Posts
Thanks for the taking the effort to provide such good detailed instructions.

We're going to have to get together sometime...I'm down in Fayetteville
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,865 Posts
DD;

Is there now a new version of the MOPs that mount on the vertical portionof the engine guard cage? If so, how does one compensate for the offset in the left vs the right vertical bars?

prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,614 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Pigeon Roost said:
DD;

Is there now a new version of the MOPs that mount on the vertical portionof the engine guard cage? If so, how does one compensate for the offset in the left vs the right vertical bars?

prs
Yep. I believe Jim has taken care of that. Give him a call and he can explain it.

BTW, he emailed me today that his prices go up Jan. 1. So if you're planning to buy you can save a few bucks by doing it now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
ddking said:
Yep. I believe Jim has taken care of that. Give him a call and he can explain it.

Actually, we did not design the GF and GQ to compensate for the 1/2" difference in the vertical engine guards so you may notice the pegs are not exactly even.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top