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Discussion Starter #1
Sometime back one of the members made some mounting tips for his tire changer. I can't seem to find the post but am hoping that someone will recall.

I have the cycle hill changer with the No-Mar mojo bar. I just could not get the second bead onto the wheel. I finally used the no-mar levers and got the back tire mounted. Tonight I will tackel the front tire.

Thank You
 

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Don't remember the thread, but all tips are welcome. Only tips I have is pry down the tire with the no mar levers to set in 3 small wood blocks to hold the tire down in the drop center and use lots of lube. And no, soap/water is not a suitable lube.
You shouldn't have any trouble with the front, it's easy as any tire, but that rear is tricky. Also the previous tips like leave the tire out in the sun warming the rubber before attempting to mount is good.
 

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Jay, I think I recall the old thread. Guy was making them at home and selling them. The one I recall was very similar to the MoJo Lever. The No Mar bar is NOT a MoJo lever, not even close. Preston Drake sells the MoJo Lever. The real MoJo has a learning curve, but its mainly learning to mash the upper bead into the drop center behind the set tire bar before beginning to turn the bar. NoMar recommends the NoMar spoon bars only for the rear GL1800 tires. The front is a piece of cake.

prs
 

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mounting tires

If you already know this then disregard.

The trick to getting the top bead on, is to make sure you have both beads on the tire in the center, lowest part of the rim. Then work the top bead the rest of the way on, on the opposite side of the tire. Hope this makes sense.

Rayjoe
 

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If you already know this then disregard.

The trick to getting the top bead on, is to make sure you have both beads on the tire in the center, lowest part of the rim. Then work the top bead the rest of the way on, on the opposite side of the tire. Hope this makes sense.

Rayjoe
Interesting. Do you mean we should be forcing the lower and upper bead down into the drop center; say at about 6 o'clock before we work the tire bar toward and past 12 o'clock. If so, are you putting wood shims at 6 on the lower and upper beads, or are you using a ratchet strap to pull them in. At present, I am just using blocks to force the upper bead into the drop center with the lower bead just sitting on the bead seats as they naturally do.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the comments. And I was referring to an actual homemade part ( a tip ) as opposed to good suggestions ( also a tip ) but I can see the confusion in the way I worded my original post.

The rear tire was a SOB. I like the Dunlops and they have a very rigid sidewall. The only other tire brand I have experience with is the bridgstone. I don't recall that they were as rigid.

I wish I could recall exactly how they were built. Plus he had used some Nylon or UHMW to pad the metal parts that contacted the rims. The guy was making a few to sell. I will keep searching and will post if I find it. .
 

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For what its worth, the mojo lever just installed my michelin run flat. I decided to give it a try, I have changed many MC tires and CT's but never a runflat. It made it easy to my surprise. I know we like making some things, but I paid for this one and its money well spent!
 

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Interesting. Do you mean we should be forcing the lower and upper bead down into the drop center; say at about 6 o'clock before we work the tire bar toward and past 12 o'clock. If so, are you putting wood shims at 6 on the lower and upper beads, or are you using a ratchet strap to pull them in. At present, I am just using blocks to force the upper bead into the drop center with the lower bead just sitting on the bead seats as they naturally do.

prs
That's correct. It can be a real bear with stiff sidewalls, but it allows the top bead to go on easier. Wood blocks with a C clamp. Just don't get carried away and damage your tire. (I'm sorry I meant "tar").

Rayjoe

p.s. I was hoping you would reply with a "West by God Virginia accent."
 
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