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Discussion Starter #1
'02 32,850 miles
used the cam chain tension release tool

Cyl IN OUT
1 .006- .008
4 .005- .008
5 .006 .008
2 .004+ .009-
3 .005 .008
6 .005 .006
Looks like I have some shim shuffling/buying to do.

Some tips:
Beware of the right side cam chain release access bolt. Mine was a little rounded (thanks Marysville). I finished the job! UGH. Use a closed box wrench! Socket couldn't fit. It's a snug fit for most tools I had.Open end seemed to not snug enough to do the job. I had to remove the cam chain tensioner on the right side (the 2 bolts on each side of the one you normally remove) to get the rounded bolt off. when putting it back on, be sure to wind up the tensioner to get the bolts to thread & the tensioner to fit all the way down.

Valve Measurements.... I found it easiest:

Rotate the engine using a 17mm (I think) socket. I couldn't kick the rear wheel like Fred does in his video and get it to move. The ratchet/socket on the timing access port worked well. Easy to align the marks precisely. Fairly easy to rotate.

Summary
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> Release timing chain tensioner release tool before you rotate.
> Wind it up on that cylinder side before taking measurements

Timing aligned with mark 1/2TF, lobes facing out on cylinder 1. If cam lobes aren't pointing away from the valve on cylinder 1, rotate 360 degrees to the same mark (1/2TF) so the are.

Measure Cylinder 1 intake & exhaust (.006", .009" +/- .001")
rotate (CCW 120 degrees) to the next mark (3/4TF)
Measure cylinder 4 intake & exhaust (.006", .009" +/- .001")
rotate (CCW 120 degrees) to the next mark (5/6TF)
Measure cylinder 5 intake & exhaust (.006", .009" +/- .001")
rotate (CCW 120 degrees) to the original mark (1/2TF)
Measure Cylinder 2 intake & exhaust (.006", .009" +/- .001")
rotate (CCW 120 degrees) to the next mark (3/4TF)
Measure Cylinder 3 intake & exhaust (.006", .009" +/- .001")
rotate (CCW 120 degrees) to the next mark (5/6TF)
Measure Cylinder 6 intake & exhaust (.006", .009" +/- .001")


Hope this helps...
 

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Well done Tex. I was lucky to have a box end that would fit. The folks with ABS are even in tighter quarters. I recall Fred showing the right adjsuter off of the motor too. I meant to ask Fred and now I will ask you:

....if the two outer bolts and adjuster body is removed like you did, is the chain then relaxed? If so, then couldn't a penny pinch'n feller with no special tool just git'er done thata'way?

The left bank adjuster is so easy to get to with a small acrew driver and hemostat that its a no brainer there, but the right was a bother even with the special tool.

BTW, did ya adjust both sides concurently or did you measure all the rights and then butten 'er-up before going to the left? (or visa versa).

Shim kits are available at reasonable cost from HotCams; several of all sizes in 7.48mm dia if I recall correctly (thin ice :lol: ). Get an aerosol can of "dry air" to blow the excess oil off of the buckets' shim seats so your initial checks will be correct.

If you plan on replacing the spark plugs at the same time, loosening the plugs will allow the motor to turn very easily with either the wrench or with Fred's podiatric method -- I think Fred had the tranny in third gear.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pigeon Roost said:
Well done Tex. I was lucky to have a box end that would fit. The folks with ABS are even in tighter quarters. I recall Fred showing the right adjsuter off of the motor too. I meant to ask Fred and now I will ask you:

....if the two outer bolts and adjuster body is removed like you did, is the chain then relaxed? If so, then couldn't a penny pinch'n feller with no special tool just git'er done thata'way?

The left bank adjuster is so easy to get to with a small acrew driver and hemostat that its a no brainer there, but the right was a bother even with the special tool.

BTW, did ya adjust both sides concurently or did you measure all the rights and then butten 'er-up before going to the left? (or visa versa).

Shim kits are available at reasonable cost from HotCams; several of all sizes in 7.48mm dia if I recall correctly (thin ice :lol: ). Get an aerosol can of "dry air" to blow the excess oil off of the buckets' shim seats so your initial checks will be correct.

If you plan on replacing the spark plugs at the same time, loosening the plugs will allow the motor to turn very easily with either the wrench or with Fred's podiatric method -- I think Fred had the tranny in third gear.

prs
if you remove the entire cam chain tentioner to relax the chain (yes it is relaxed) you still have to wind it up to install it back in.

Shims: went to Honda to buy my shims, not in stock! UGH. Sales sent me to service, they said they usually don't sell from their stock. But they went and looked. Said they weren't marked...so couldnt sell me the specific ones I needed (?????). Sales said they are $10 each! Recommended ordering a HotCams kit. UGH. Was going to order (local warehouse) but service mgr came out with a kit he would sell me. Apparently they use them also. Warning, they are in .05 increments, not .025. So I had to recalculate what shims I needed to use.

I did both sides at the same time. Just rotated 120 degrees, moved to other side, relaxed cam ( pretty easy with no ABS & the tool), measured, rotated 120 degrees, to the other side in the cylinder order I showed.

So, back together, but cam holder not torqued down snugly yet. I need a lower range (more precise at low range) torque wrench. Initial measurement are all good. right one or now closer to center of spec than before.
 

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Using a wrench on the timing wheel bolt is indeed a better way to rotate the engine than using your foot like I showed in the video. I was simply used to using this method on other bikes that don't have the luxury of a bolt on the end of the crank like the GL1800 does.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fred H. said:
Using a wrench on the timing wheel bolt is indeed a better way to rotate the engine than using your foot like I showed in the video. I was simply used to using this method on other bikes that don't have the luxury of a bolt on the end of the crank like the GL1800 does.
weird that I couldn't get it to budge the flywheel by kicking the tire. I only tried 1st gear. Thought I might have to loosen some spark plugs.

Started up...let idle as Fred suggested to reset ECM. Sounds good. Revs good. Now to put more stuff back on & give it a spin.

I just wish the HotCams kit was .025 (like Honda shims) instead of .05 (wanted to get the valves right on). I ended up measuring several with a micrometer to pick a shim a little closer to what i wanted. I always went on the thin side if given a choice.

Since I had a couple out of spec (one exhaust as at .006, an in @ .004), wonder if I'll feel a difference or notice a gas mileage change.
 

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The shim diameter is 7.48 mm.
 

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You can order the proper shims from Honda. If I remember right, they were about $6 each and it took them about 3-4 days to get them. I just left the bike apart and waited till they came in.

If you record your shim sizes when you remove the cams, you then should know what you will need for the next time and can order them in advance. Most times, you simply need to drop one shim size to bring the valve back to center spec.
 

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Good point Fred. I remember marking my shim nominal sizes on the inside of the valve covers with #2 pencil. I think they will sirvive. I also have themnoted in my service notes - but I tend to lose things over time :roll: .

It is a good time to remind folks and myself that the printed markings on the stock and shim kit shims are nominal sizes and not the exact physical measurements. A micrometer can come in handy if want to be really persnickity about it. In tolerance is in tolerance, but I am intolerant.

BTW: When I reset my valve shims, I noticed that the original factory installed shims did not appear to all be of the same manufacturing source or lot. Some had bright shinny metalic appearence and others were a bit dull and golden looking. Some had large clear and crisp size printing upon them, while others had smaller more faded printing. Like oil and other products, Honda probably does not make shims and buys them form whoever as needed. No? Yes? All of the shims in the two kits I purchased from Hot Cams were of a very consistent appearance with highly polished finish and crisp features.

prs
 

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Tom R, Call HDL and talk to Drew, he will order the cam chain tool $66.71. I just ordered one

Ron
 

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I don't recall the manual saying to release the tension before rotating the engine. It makes sense, is it required? and since I have to admit I rolled the engine with the tension released do you think I have caused any damage? The timing marks are still lined up.

Con Wieland
'01 illusion red
 

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I recently had to change 5 valve shims on a friend's bike and I just took the old shims in to the local Honda Service department and they swapped the old ones for the correct ones that they had previously taken out of other bikes at no charge. So you might want to see if your service department is willing to do you a favor and make a swap before you purchase now ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cwieland said:
I don't recall the manual saying to release the tension before rotating the engine. It makes sense, is it required? and since I have to admit I rolled the engine with the tension released do you think I have caused any damage? The timing marks are still lined up.

Con Wieland
'01 illusion red
you don't release tension to rotate the engine, you release tension to do the clearance check. Put tension back on to rotate. So they say, not entirely sure what the cam chain releasing loosens up. The cam is torqued into place with 8 bolts & a holder. I guess the cam chain tension must pull the cam slightly towards the engine...you're working with .001" tolerance differences here so I guess everything matters.
 
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