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Discussion Starter #1
I need help removing 2007 Gl1800 radio amplifier. Need to remove the amplifier. One of my speaker wires grounded out by my trunk hinge and shorted out my amplifier. Thanks.

I am looking for an amplifier to replace the factory amp. The part number is 39160-mca-a710-m1
 

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It's been years, but my memory says:
- remove seat
- remove left side cover
- disconnect battery
- unplug amp connector
- bend down back of rear fender and force connector between trunk and fender
- remove rear fender
- remove stay
- remove amp box and drain hose
- open amp box, remove amp

If needed, you can always send your amp off to Honda official electrical repair center. See attached. The forms are old and am sure if you call Honda they can send you new ones. Usually they have a flat fee for repair.
 

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Of course, you could take this opportunity to put a more respectable amplifier on your bike (and for prob. less $ than having your honda amp repaired ...).
 

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There are several threads on adding an amp. Mine is in the CB / CD-Player well in the bottom of the trunk. Have this one firing the rear speakers (draw signal from the output wires from the OEM amp) and the OEM amp firing the front speakers. With upgraded speakers it is GREAT!


I found this a useful starting point, thought didn't follow it as far as competence selection goes:


http://www.rattlebars.com/chetswing/audiofile.html


So the 1st question would be if the entire OEM amp is blown (doubtful) or just the output stages that fed the rear speakers where the short happened.
 

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The OEM amp (2006-2010 at least) is not really that bad, the fact that it does not take up any cargo space is another plus. The location of the OEM amp means you will never put an aftermarket amp in the same spot because water proofing needs to be something like a 50 depth rating and still be able to keep itself from overheating. The OEM amp does that. I will never put an amp on my 2018 because it takes up too much space in an already greatly reduced size bag.


I have found that getting the plug of the amp pulled out is easiest when the amp box is already loose and separated from the top seam of the inner wheel fender. The box the amp resides in is part of the inner wheel fender and when it is pulled away, the opening to pull the plug through is a great deal larger. The hard part is putting that box back in place. The hitch that I have makes that task even harder because hitch brackets do not let me center the box right/left to align the top of the inner fender to go into its slot. Eventually, I will get it to go in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Estimated cost to repair amplifier. My front right and rear right channels stopped working.

Thanks.
 

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I lost front right channel and right rear channel. I verified that by checking the factory wires with the speaker. My intercoms still work on both right and left channel and my left front and left rear channel still work. I verified that by checking it with a separate speaker. The factory wiring from the front speakers is what I was using for my high level inputs on my amp. The first amplifier combination lasted twenty thousand miles. The second amplifier combination lasted five hours then I lost my right two channels. Thank you very much for your help.
 
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