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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, all. I'm changing my front brake pads. The right side installed without much ado. The left side is another story. First, the pad pin was froze and I had to use a torx bit to extract it. That done, the worn pads dutifully dropped out. After much much, much ado trying to install the new pads, the sun went down and I still was unable to install both left side pads. One side would go in, but the other side would not and vice versa.

Then after some meditation I've come to the conclusion that the retainer spring that holds the top of each pad is loose and preventing completion of the install.

So tomorrow I'm going to go back out and try to get that retainer spring set right so that both pads will properly seat. My question: there any easy way to
to manipulate that spring, or do I have to remove the caliper? I have a pdf service manual that I use for reference; haven't come upon any reference to a
retainer spring and how to seat it properly.

This is my first go at pad installing. Half the job went well, but this left side is proving to be a real sun of a beach.

Thanks for any help. Have a great day.
 

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I do have the caliper in my hand, loose from the mounting bracket, only attached by the fluid line when I service the brakes. Things need de-dusting and such anyhow.
 

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They can be a pain. Hang both pads on the pin then rotate the one that sets against the solid back plate first, sliding the caliper on the slide pins to help get it in place. Now, rotate the second pad in place and slide the caliper again until you get that one seated. Keep them separated and slide her onto the rotor. Getting that first pad on is the key. If you try to slide that pad across, you catch the short edge of the spring, so dropping it in on top of the spring will help. The pad against the pistons slides in pretty much unimpeded. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, I think both of you are telling me to loosen the caliper while keeping the fluid line connected. Is that correct? And by keeping the line connected, I won't have to bleed the left side brake?

Something stinks about that retainer spring. I can see it with the outside pad removed. It's loose, and I think it's preventing me from getting the second pad in there after inserting the first.

I guess I'll read up on how to remove the left caliper without disconnecting the fluid line.

Thanks for your input, guys. Appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK. There appears to be an excellent video on youtube how to do what I want to do. It's called GL1800 A2 Front Wheel Removal, and it's by Phil 1800 UK. It goes thru the
whole front wheel removal process, including removing the caliper without disconnecting the brake line. Very well done imo. Gonna try it tomorrow.
 

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Hello, all. I'm changing my front brake pads. The right side installed without much ado. The left side is another story. First, the pad pin was froze and I had to use a torx bit to extract it. That done, the worn pads dutifully dropped out. After much much, much ado trying to install the new pads, the sun went down and I still was unable to install both left side pads. One side would go in, but the other side would not and vice versa.

Then after some meditation I've come to the conclusion that the retainer spring that holds the top of each pad is loose and preventing completion of the install.

So tomorrow I'm going to go back out and try to get that retainer spring set right so that both pads will properly seat. My question: there any easy way to
to manipulate that spring, or do I have to remove the caliper? I have a pdf service manual that I use for reference; haven't come upon any reference to a
retainer spring and how to seat it properly.

This is my first go at pad installing. Half the job went well, but this left side is proving to be a real sun of a beach.

Thanks for any help. Have a great day.
Mileage ???

It might help to look through the spokes from the right side. Sometimes the wheel needs rotated a little to move the spoke out of the way. Because you had difficulty removing the pin, and I'm thinking that was because of corrosion, possibly your spring pad, and retainer bracket has had the same fate and needs replaced. If you replace the pin, be sure to install a new stopper ring on its end.
 

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I don't see how you could easily service the calipers without removing them... I know it's possible to swap pads like that, but doesn't seem worthwhile to me.


Where-as if your fully remove the calipers, then you can easily see down inside to examine How the Pads Sit against the spring... at which point you might notice that the spring has some Raised Tabs (to locate 1 the side opposite the pistons). I presume that the problem you're experiencing is that you're inadvertently trying to set a brake pad Atop that Tab, rather than alongside it.


Anyhow, I'd suggest Removing the Calipers... that way you can also Clean the pistons; dis-assemble the caliper into 2-halves as req'd to clean/grease the slide pins; inspect the rubber boots (on slide pins), etc


 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I removed the calipers (two torx bolts), which was easier imo than blindly sliding the pads into place, and then slipped the whole thing back onto the rotor. It took about 10 minutes (after I had tried unsuccessfully the entire previous day). Haven't test drove it yet, thanks to a dead battery, but the bike does stop when I squeeze the lever, so I think I'm good. Well find out tomorrow when I put in the re-charged battery.

Thank you all for your interest. God bless.
 
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