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Discussion Starter #1
Just put in Progressive's front fork springs today. Quite an improvement as far as I can tell after a 40 mile ride after finishing. I had the same problem in doing this that I've seen others have on this board: the right drain bolt turns the dampener inside and won't come loose. I don't have air tools. I ended up just using the MightyVac to suck out about 300 ml's and adding new fluid to correct level.
Question: How do you torque the right drain bolt again since the dampener which it screws into turns? Mine just spun after braking the torque. Never got loose enough to leak a drop.
 

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There aren't any drain bolts on the 1800's forks. Those bolts on the bottom of the sliders should never be removed unless you're removing the sliders from the fork tubes. You should be able to tighten it up after the spring and top cap are installed.
 

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Stu_O said:
There aren't any drain bolts on the 1800's forks.
That really sucks. If any Honda Engineers are reading this I think they need to read the other post: Why we need Engineers, or at least, common sense. Also, like the other guy said, All Engineers should be required to work at the mechanic or technician level for at least two years before they can be certified.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yikes! :eek: Well it seems there's a lot of folks publishing this method on the boards. I have to admit I never checked the service manual.
Thanks Stu,
Jim
 

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Maybe they aren't meant to be used as drain bolts but it sure worked fine for me. I unscrewed them, drained the forks, installed new Progressives, reinstalled screws, and refilled............no problems.

Stu,

Why shouldn't they be removed to drain the oil? There's obviously something I don't understand here.


Thanks........
 

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Stu,

Any reply.............I'd appreciate any further comments.


Thanks..............
 

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Lower fork Bolts

Usta work as ah part time bike mechanic it can be trouble ta remove & reinstall th bolts in th bottom of th fork tubes, sometimes they come out ok & sometimes they are ah PITA. I've changed th fork oil twice on my 01 Wing removin th forks both times turnin em over ta dump th old fluid. I put new springs in th front end also requiring complete disassembly, it seems that th lower fork bolts catch & tighten better when th fork legs & sliders are clean & oil free. I don't have air tools at home, they make it easier ta remove & retighten th lower fork bolts. Like Stu says th top cap needs ta be in place first.
 

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Brian_Fenner said:
Stu,

Any reply.............I'd appreciate any further comments.
For starters, the problem Jim ran into is one reason not to do it. Those bolts support the full unsprung weight of the front end when the forks are fully extended, so they must be properly torqued. That's best accomplished when the parts are clean and dry. There are other reasons involving centering of the internal fork components and adjusting the oil level, but I'm not going there. You know how I feel about field expiedients. If I present information, please ignore it if you don't like it. I don't want to start an argument.

Stu O
 

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Stu has a good point about the ANchor Bolts.

I have taken many forks apart for R&R of Tubes, Sliders, Seals & Bushings. Sometimes everything works out very easy and sometimes it doesn't. If you do remove those Anchor Bolts as a shortcut be prepared to drill one out if need be. Also make sure to clean all the surface and install a new crush washer to keep a good seal. When you get one out note that is has Thread Locker on it, it's there for a reason.

So far I have only had the Anchor Bolts out once on my '01. That was needed to replace a blown Left Seal so I went ahead and took both sliders off cleaned them out, replaced the seals and reinstalled 'em. It isn't all that difficult with an Air Wrench to get out the bolts & a Torque Wrench to put 'em back. In that case everything went very well but I had a new bolt on hand just in case and was prepared to order a new Anchor/Damper Rod if need be. It's hard to predict when a rod will have it's threads distroyed, it doesn't happen often but it does happen.

For Both Sides - ALWAYS REPLACE!
WASHER, SPECIAL (8MM) 2ea 90544-283-000 $1.64ea


You may need the following if something doesn't come out right. Be prepared to wait 2 to 4 weeks for parts if needed.

For Left Side
BOLT, SOCKET (8MM) (SHOWA) 1ea 90116-KV3-701 $2.42
PIPE, SEAT 1ea 51540-MCA-003 $128.98

For Right Side
BOLT, SOCKET (8MM) (SHOWA) 1ea 90116-383-721 $3.20
DAMPER, FR 1ea 51430-MCA-003 $112.84

Jerry



ps I replaced the Blown Seal myself because a 5 week wait in the Dealer Queue was just not reasonable, besides it isn't that difficult IF you are prepared.
 

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I probably started this by publishing photos of draining your fork oil using this method. I have done it three times now, although it has not been trouble free. The last time I had to replace both allen screws as it took an electric impact wrench to remove them and they were starting to get rounded out.

Removing the forks and turning them upside down does pretty much the same thing. But by removing the allen bolts, I am able to remove the damper cartridge in the right fork and drain it too.

I guess you have to decide for yourself which method is best. Neither is trouble free and both have their advantages and disadvantages.
 

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I screwed up too. The bolt is stripped at the damper. I was lucky, I convenced my dealer to get the tube replaced under warranty. I couldn't get the bolt to lock long enough to drill it out. There was definetely some bad information published on this forum.
 
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