I agree, sounds like they left the kickstand switch wired as being "down". I put a toggle switch on mine, so that if I ever get the "F1" light, I can simulate the kickstand being down to count the flashes.If the kickstand was removed the wiring has to be fixed so it will start the right way.
Nice! :grin2:Actually, if they left the kickstand switch “down”, the bike would die when put in gear. The problem is on the clutch handle micro switch. (There should be two clicks, the first to trip cancels the cruise, the other clicks and completes the circuit for the bike to start in gear)
On the forward part of the clutch and front break levers (up close to the pivot bolt) you will see wires attached to switches. All of these switches tend to get dirty and need flushing out. Some guys use WD40 but that is a petroleum based "Water displacer" that actually attracts road dust and dirt. Spray silicone cleans the switch contacts and lubricates the mechanical parts. I've used it on such things since the early 1980s.What is a clutch switch and where is it incase I have issues down the road.
Thanks Gold, when you speak I listen! What you say is "good as Gold" in my book...LOL .(See what did there?)Keeping road dirt and dust away from working things is never a bad idea Ronnie. I use an old 1" paint brush. That toothbrush can't get to the switch contacts and might knock them out of alignment if it could. I accidentally bumped the contacts once with the spray tube and messed things up. Had to replace that switch.
Just put the spray tube from the spray silicone at the opening where you can actually see the switch contacts and spray the dickens out of things while working the switch. Repeat a couple times with each switch. It's messy. That is why I recommend removing the switches instead of just poking the tube in and squirting.