[WingWider]

Just got my new to me 2001 Wing, yesterday the left fork seal let go. Bike just turned 18,000 miles.

Reading some on this and it seems the anti-dive valve contributes to this. Dealer wants $334 plus parts, holy crap!

Anyone that has had it done for less let me know - I think they are asking too much for this service!

Also what tools are needed if I did it myself, just ordered a service manual.

Thanks!

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

To OH both forks (parts and Labor), I charge $340. The andi-dive valve is $105 installed. JustWings.com

 

[VA Dan]

You can do it yourself with no special tools. I was leary but it was easier than I thought it would be.:thumbup:

 

[Dandy Dave]

Wingwider,

The $334 for labor isn't that far out. Anything on a Wing takes longer, because you have to take so much plastic off to get to anything. R&R the forks is probably flat rated at 2 hours, and rebuild the forks (right) is probably around 1.5 hours, so 3.5 to 4.0 for the job isn't out of the realm of reality. Times the shop labor rate ($80-$90 / hour?) and there you are. Maybe plus some consumable supplies, shop rags, solvent, and so on.

Yes, it is pretty easy to do. Just takes patience and a little knowledge. A service manual is a big help, and so is Fred Harmon's video set. He shows you how.
If you want to do it yourself, you should have a manual, a torque wrench, and a way to drive the seals. It also helps to have access to an air zip gun, to loosen the bolts that hold the cartridge and damper rod in. And you need a long hex key socket to get to them. People take a hex key & cut it off straight, then put it in a socket. You also need a GOOD long 4 MM (I think) key to remove the anti-dive valve. The little bolts are easy to bolix up. Do one fork, then the other. Then you won't get parts confused.
We clean the tubes out with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, but any solvent will work OK.
If you're OK with taking the forks on & off, you could take them to somebody to rebuild for you. Half the labor is just getting them off & back on. Worse if you have a bunch of aftermarket stuff, like the Kury rotor covers & ring of fire. The connectors for the ROF fail as soon as you touch them.
There are some other things you might want to consider once you have the forks off & apart. Better springs, GoldValves, Traxxion AK-20s, replacing your stem bearings with roller bearings are a few things that come to mind.
If the fork seal is leaking, check to be sure nothing got on the brake pads. Oil on brake pads is kind of not good.. :22yikes:
If you want to discuss this more, PM me with a phone number & I'll call you, or you can call me. I'm at my real job right now, but could call you later. Or, we will be at Motorcycle Nightin Lowell tonight, if you live north shore-ish and would like to come. http://motorcyclenight.com/ It runs from about 6-ish to dark-ish. You see lots of interesting bikes, mostly sport, but a lot of other types too. The weather looks nice tonight, good evening for a ride.

=Dave=
GWBBA #9
rocketmoto.com

 

[dynodon]

You might want to try to "fix" your seal before you spend money/time on replacing it.

To do it, find a strip of old fashioned film or film negative. Either will work.

Cut it about 4-6" long and cut off the small holes on both sides so the film strip is smooth. Round the corners a bit on one end.

(make sure the film strip is flexible enough to not break under flexing. Some may be brittle, don't use any that are really brittle.).

Then with the dust seal pulled up, push the film strip under the seal, and then with it flat (slightly bent) around the tube, work it around the tube as you slide it around. Do this 2-3 times around the entire tube. Remove the film strip, and bounce the bike some (after wiping down the tube and seal area) and see if it is fixed.

My bike had a seal leak, and this fixed it! Really.

What the process does is clean the edge of the seal. You may only have a bit of bug or something stuck under an edge, or maybe something inside the fork (bit of metal?) got stuck under it. The film strip cleans the edge.

You may need to do the "clean" a couple/three times, but it only takes a couple of minutes anyway.

IF it works, you are looking good, if not, or if it only works for a little while, y ou are ahead some in any case.

Don

 

[Flaxman]

sorry to hear your issue, Mine did the same thing LAST year, 5 days after taking posession... was not a HUGE job, just be patient. the problem was "gunk" in the anti-dive valve, so be sure to address that while your in there. parts were~$70 if memory serves, a few coffees while doing the work, and a couple cold ones after completion!

was a great introduction to Goldwing Technology, ENJOY

USE THIS FORUM FOR ALL YOUR INFO, the seal driver is an ABS reduce coupling, just grind out the shoulder in the middle until it fits around the tube.
SCOTT