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Discussion Starter #1
So with respect to rear brake bleed, the common process is listed as follows, but:

ROCKY BRAKEBLEEDING SEQUENCE


1: Front Right Brake Upper Bleeder Valve


2: Front Left Brake Middle/lower Bleeder Valve





Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome engine cover)


1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve


2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve


3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve


4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top


5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve


Do these two additional Steps to be sure you have noresidual air bubble in the rear system!!


6: Pressure bleeding the lower Junction block. (Upperleft side of frame sitting on bike).Follow rubber hose from Secondary mastercyl to the Junction block.


7) Pressure Bleed the top Banjo bolt on the SecondaryMaster Cyl. (To be sure the air bubble is completely out)


Steps 6 and 7 call out the term "PRESSURE BLEEDING". How is this step performed? I have the notorious soft rear brake pedal on my 2003 and the other steps have not helped.
 

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Use the same process as with the others. Have a helper pump up and hold the pedal while you crack those connections. Repeat until you're certain the air is out and make sure the reservoir doesn't get to low and suck air. If you followed the procedures all the way through, you're going to have a much better pedal.
 

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These extra steps are intended to bleed the tiny bubbles that tend to be trapped in high points in the hydraulic lines. Junction blocks and banjo fittings can trap bubbles that refuse to move through the lines under the normal bleeding procedures. The method is simple. Identify the high points in the lines. Attach the proper line wrench or socket. Cover the tool with rags to absorbe the spray. Apply pressure to the foot peddle. Crack the fitting open for just a fraction of a second and close it quickly. The peddle will drop down and the fluid and air will be ejected. Clean-up any fluid residue. The high points I bleed are the banjo bolt on top of the foot brake master cylinder and the junction block located at the left side of the steering neck. It can easily be reached from below the front faring behind the left fork leg.
Len
 

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I use an articulating flare nut wrench for the upper junction box, but do exactly this bleed procedure and flush both systems (front and rear) annually.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So...no need to actuate the secondary master cyl?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The Rocky Bleed worked for me

I did the bleed per the sequence listed. You need to remove the LH caliper cover, and the RH engine cover to get at it all.

The last two steps, I did in sequence and did them exactly like the first 5 steps: I pressurized the system with the brake pedal, cracked the specified fitting and repeat as needed.

To bleed the junction block behind the LH fork, I used a 10mm line wrench cut to 4.25 inches. Took longer to find the fitting than to crack it open.

You will spill fluid on the floor...so take care. When done, I hosed everything off.

After bleeding, the junction block...the pedal was firm, as it should be. Maybe I should have started there, since the other points had been bled by me and a dealer several times, to no avail.

REAR BRAKE BLEEDING SEQUENCE

Rear Reservoir (under right side chrome engine cover)
1: Front Left Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
2: Front Right Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
3: Rear Brake Lower Bleeder Valve
4: Anti-Dive: bleeder valve on top
5: Rear Brake Upper Bleeder Valve
6: Bleed the lower Junction block. (Upper left side of frame sitting on bike).Follow rubber hose from Secondary master cyl to the Junction block.
7: Bleed the top Banjo bolt on the Secondary Master Cyl.

Note: If you get poor fluid flow through a bleed valve, be advised it can be clogged with junk.
 
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