Front tire is easy, first bead goes on by hand. Watch Fred's video's if you have them. Get some wooden blocks to keep the bead in the valley of the rim or a helper.
Jeff
Jeff
No-Mar Tire Changer
Just bought a No-Mar Tire Changer at the International Bike Show in Dallas. I bought their Gold Wing package deal that includes the Classic changer with the upgraded bead breaker bar and the wheel balancer, the Rim Clamp Set, the spoonbars. Also bought the receiver hitch mount and their high volume air chuck and guage.
I'm getting kind of excited about taking my self-service to a new level. Although admittedly, a little anxious about it. I'm sure after I do the first one, I'll be less nervous about it.
It looks like a well made, quality piece of equipment.
I'm certainly interested in any tips and techniques that any has, that uses the same equipment. Especially those geared toward a beginner.
My first will be the front tire in the next couple of weeks.
--Steve
I'm getting kind of excited about taking my self-service to a new level. Although admittedly, a little anxious about it. I'm sure after I do the first one, I'll be less nervous about it.
It looks like a well made, quality piece of equipment.
I'm certainly interested in any tips and techniques that any has, that uses the same equipment. Especially those geared toward a beginner.
My first will be the front tire in the next couple of weeks.
--Steve
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Steve...
I did the same thing last year at the NY show. :congrats:
Suggestions:
1) Watch the video on the CD they provide. Then watch it again. Then watch it again!! And finally, when the time comes to actually get your hands dirty... then take that CD & a laptop computer down to the garage with you, so that you have it as a ready reference.
2) Yeah, I know that they show you that you can use their bar to remove the tire from the rim... but do yourself another favor: You've already invested a good amount of money into the No-Mar package...now go spend another $100, and order the MoJo Bar. Trust me when I tell you that it makes the job of getting the bead off of the rim a whole lot easier. The business end of the MoJo bar is longer & solid throughout, whereas the end of the NoMar bar only has a metal sleeve about half the length of the end... and they will break in half right above the sleeve.
I did the same thing last year at the NY show. :congrats:
Suggestions:
1) Watch the video on the CD they provide. Then watch it again. Then watch it again!! And finally, when the time comes to actually get your hands dirty... then take that CD & a laptop computer down to the garage with you, so that you have it as a ready reference.
2) Yeah, I know that they show you that you can use their bar to remove the tire from the rim... but do yourself another favor: You've already invested a good amount of money into the No-Mar package...now go spend another $100, and order the MoJo Bar. Trust me when I tell you that it makes the job of getting the bead off of the rim a whole lot easier. The business end of the MoJo bar is longer & solid throughout, whereas the end of the NoMar bar only has a metal sleeve about half the length of the end... and they will break in half right above the sleeve.
The NoMar stand is excellent, but a little pricey. I do not like their mount/demount bar much though and prefer the NoScuff tire tool over the No Mar bar.
Thanks guys for the advice. I'm anxious to get it all together and try it out this next week. I will definitely look into the MoJo bar and the No-Scuff bar. I may need to do one with the equipment they supply so that I have an idea of what you are talking about. But I will keep your suggestions handy afterward.
Steve
Steve
Yeah... I guess I had the old ones then. I know that, after fighting with the tire for over an hour & breaking 3 of the NoMar tips... I said 'to hell with this', and ordered the MoJo bar....The way to tell if you have the new No-Mar tip is that they are held in place by a 5/16" set screw. The old tips were held in place by a 1/8" compression pin. Big difference in the two as far as strength and durability goes.
When it arrived about a week later... within 5 minutes of taking the MoJo bar out of the shipping box, I had the tire off of the rim.
I've asked this question before and it never gets answered so I'll ask it again.....can you change a tire on a chrome wheel and not damaged the chrome with the No Mar tire changer ?
Its good to hear that NoMar has upgraded their tire bar. It was pretty much useless for GL1800 tires when I got mine.
Roadie; I don't have a No Mar stand and I don't have chrome plated rims; but I "think" I could change chrome rims with my set-up (my set-up is a HF with No Mar add ons and a MoJo) and do no harm. BUT (yep, that's a big butt) its gonna vary greatly depending upon the quality of the chorme plating. If the chrome is just laying on the surface, its gonna peal if you look at crooked; if its really electro bonded into the substrate surface, it ain't gonna flake or peak.
Regarding "wood blocks"; I purchased three small logger's felling or bucking wedges. The hard and slick orange plastic ones. You can really see the tire creep down the bottom of them as the tire goes into the valley. Cool!
Scoffman!; there is no law against practicing before you tackle the GL wheels. Even our front wheel is more dofficulat thatn most other MC changes. Experience is the key.
prs
Roadie; I don't have a No Mar stand and I don't have chrome plated rims; but I "think" I could change chrome rims with my set-up (my set-up is a HF with No Mar add ons and a MoJo) and do no harm. BUT (yep, that's a big butt) its gonna vary greatly depending upon the quality of the chorme plating. If the chrome is just laying on the surface, its gonna peal if you look at crooked; if its really electro bonded into the substrate surface, it ain't gonna flake or peak.
Regarding "wood blocks"; I purchased three small logger's felling or bucking wedges. The hard and slick orange plastic ones. You can really see the tire creep down the bottom of them as the tire goes into the valley. Cool!
Scoffman!; there is no law against practicing before you tackle the GL wheels. Even our front wheel is more dofficulat thatn most other MC changes. Experience is the key.
prs
I do not have chrome wheels------but------ I do believe that the answer is yes. you can change them and not hurt the chrome. there is nothing metal that touches the wheel. if rubber and plastic will damage the chrome then no.I've asked this question before and it never gets answered so I'll ask it again.....can you change a tire on a chrome wheel and not damaged the chrome with the No Mar tire changer ?
My impression of their equipment and technique is that it can work without damaging a chrome wheel. I met the owner and his wife yesterday. He designed the changer. They are very open to talking to you on the phone and answering your questions. But since I don't have any personal experience yet, I can't tell you for certain. But it looks as though the equipment is well made and first rate and designed not to scratch your wheels.I've asked this question before and it never gets answered so I'll ask it again.....can you change a tire on a chrome wheel and not damaged the chrome with the No Mar tire changer ?
Steve
bar
I like the MOJO for demount, and the NOSCUFF for mounting.
Anyway....to add extra anti-scratch protection, you can wrap a few inches of duct tape, electrical tape, etc, around the metal shaft where it meets the plastic tips, and that will help prevent accidents. I have done several powder coated wheels, and so far no scratches.
I like the MOJO for demount, and the NOSCUFF for mounting.
Anyway....to add extra anti-scratch protection, you can wrap a few inches of duct tape, electrical tape, etc, around the metal shaft where it meets the plastic tips, and that will help prevent accidents. I have done several powder coated wheels, and so far no scratches.
Tire mounting suggestions
I have a NoMar changer and it took two people to mount a Dunlop e3 rear (useing too much lube kept tire spoons sliding together).The next e3 I used NoMar with metal rim clamps with two nylon spools on each clamp. Iam clumsey and dinged rim on metal part of clamp. I installed the nylon cam clamps and used endless ratchet tie downs around wheel spoke and changer frame to make sure it wouldn't move. Next I used two tire spoons to pry bead down to insert wooden blocks. I used endless ratched tie downs and wraped them around rim tire and board. When you crank them down it definatley gets tire bead toward the center of rim. I finished it off with a mojo lever (all by myself). The above post suggesting nylon tree felling wedges is great because nylon is slicker and won't splinter like wood. The noscuff lever looks better then the MOJO because it has two allen bolts holding nylon rim protector.
I have a NoMar changer and it took two people to mount a Dunlop e3 rear (useing too much lube kept tire spoons sliding together).The next e3 I used NoMar with metal rim clamps with two nylon spools on each clamp. Iam clumsey and dinged rim on metal part of clamp. I installed the nylon cam clamps and used endless ratchet tie downs around wheel spoke and changer frame to make sure it wouldn't move. Next I used two tire spoons to pry bead down to insert wooden blocks. I used endless ratched tie downs and wraped them around rim tire and board. When you crank them down it definatley gets tire bead toward the center of rim. I finished it off with a mojo lever (all by myself). The above post suggesting nylon tree felling wedges is great because nylon is slicker and won't splinter like wood. The noscuff lever looks better then the MOJO because it has two allen bolts holding nylon rim protector.
mojo
Yes, the two fasteners on the Noscuff, vs one on the Mojo bar is what makes me prefer the Noscuff for mounting.
Yes, the two fasteners on the Noscuff, vs one on the Mojo bar is what makes me prefer the Noscuff for mounting.
I have the No-Mar changer. They are 25 miles from the house.
Gold Wing tires are probably the most tedious. Take your time. The biggest thing is to make sure that the tire is down in the drop center or you'll never get that thing mounted. VERY VERY stiff sidewalls.
The warmer the tire, the better it mounts. I have laid mine out in the sun now and then. It helps.
I agree that the No-Mar mounting bar could use some improvement.
I have the big bucket of tire lube. Pretty stiff stuff. Stiffer than wheel bearing grease. Heated it up and mixed some water with it to get a lighter consistency. THAT was an improvement.
Still, Gold Wing tires can be a PITA. Take your time. I have been changing tires all of my life and still sometimes find them a challenge - especially the Dunlop Elite III's.
Gold Wing tires are probably the most tedious. Take your time. The biggest thing is to make sure that the tire is down in the drop center or you'll never get that thing mounted. VERY VERY stiff sidewalls.
The warmer the tire, the better it mounts. I have laid mine out in the sun now and then. It helps.
I agree that the No-Mar mounting bar could use some improvement.
I have the big bucket of tire lube. Pretty stiff stuff. Stiffer than wheel bearing grease. Heated it up and mixed some water with it to get a lighter consistency. THAT was an improvement.
Still, Gold Wing tires can be a PITA. Take your time. I have been changing tires all of my life and still sometimes find them a challenge - especially the Dunlop Elite III's.
Yea, this is the key. It is impossible to get the tire on without keeping it in the valley.Front tire is easy, first bead goes on by hand. Watch Fred's video's if you have them. Get some wooden blocks to keep the bead in the valley of the rim or a helper.
Jeff
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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