GL1800Riders Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of MAY's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noticed today, no function of turn signals. Operation of turn signal switch does sort of blink-wink the tail lights in mirror housing very slightly as the switch is toggled through the center position. The hand brake lever does not activate brake lights, but the foot brake peddle does. Fuses OK. I did recently remove orivinal style Reg risers after using them for several years as I felt cramped by how they moved the bars back toward me. They also put some stress on brake/clutch lines, wiring harness, and throttle cables; all of which is now back in original postitions and more relaxed. The brake and turn signals were working after the risers were removed, but maybe the wiring to the switch(es) was/were compromised - but both sides? of the bars.

I will start by checking the hand brake switch for the brake, it is relatively new, less than a year old. Maybe check the signal wiring to the blinker and cancel unit. Then what?


prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,624 Posts
Mirror housing?? Only the front ones do not work or all do not work? How about the emergency flashers, do they work??

All fuses good........tail or signal relay? Continuity check through the signal switch? Is it good and making contact?

Shorted bulb or bulbs........

Front brake switch is most likely separate and just the switch.

Off to plant bushes.....honey doo......later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Wonder if this had been happening before removal of Reg Risers and you did not have cause to notice it. It seems many people have been posting about electrical malfunctions in turn lights, stop lights and other functions controlled through the handlebar switches and the remedy has been to remove, clean and replace the switch. Spraying cleaner at it is just that, spraying it at it without any benefit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry about being slow to get back, got side tracked wirh WVU Mountaineers doing the Hyde/Jeckle routine and them took a "test" ride after getting issues identified. The two systems are apparently independant and it is just a co-winkie-dink that both problems were noted on my morning ride.

The turn signal failure was due to the clasp on that little green connecter through the steering stem breaking. I pushed it closed and taped it, normal function resotred. The front brake lever not activating the brake lights seems to be directly related to stress on the harness from having the risers. I guess even though getting rid of the risers ralaxed the harness, the "change" allowed the problem to show-up. There seems to be an intermittent open circuit in the front wire to the brake switch, maybe in the wire or the crimp of the connector. Manipularing that wire gave me function, but I will need to splice and relpace the connector on that lead. BUT, when I rolled the boot back to inpsect it, the boot split as if it were dry rotted and the plastic tab that fastens the swith housing to the grip snapped like a stick pretzle. I will order a new boot and switch and I was lucky enough to have kept the old one that got sticky last year and I cleaned and lubed it to regain function.

So, I had a very nice three hour evening "test run" and hit the mountains to blow off the frustration. All is well that ends well.

prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20,014 Posts
I'm assuming that you have already verified that the switch itself is ok, and that the lever is actually activating it.

What appeared to be a split from dry rotting may have actually been a boot that was getting pinched. Before replacing the boot, you may want to closely inspect the wires under it, even if you need a magnifying glass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,122 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Larry;

The damage appears to be in a wire very close or at the crimp of the female connecter. The swich tests good, but I managed to break the mounting tab off of it. I kept the old switch that had failed a year ago and have a new on on order. I will replace the damaged wire connection when I install. It seems as if that boot is part and parcel of the sub wiring harness and NOT available as a seperate part. Heat shrink will have to serve to either replace or reinforce that boot. Even though I had cleaned the old switch and had it working again, I noticed it does stick "off" on occasion. I apply foot and front brakes together, so no biggie for temp use.

prs
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top