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Discussion Starter #1
2004 gl1800 i started it about a month ago before pulling the battery to store it ,fired right i let get warm then shut it down pulled the battery and covered it up.A couple a days ago installed the battery now it just cranks.Its getting fuel but no spark.I checked all the fuses,the fi relay is working the mil lamp light cycles and goes out.Is I see that the ecm seems to go for no reason,is their a way to check it without special tools.Any help would be appreciated.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Welcome to the board. Crank it for more than 10 seconds with the side stand down, in neutral, and see if it will flash any codes with the FI light. If it flashes 1 long flash and 9 short flashes, then the ECM isn’t getting sufficient signal from the crankshaft position sensor. This could be caused by a bad sensor, a weak battery, oxidation in the sensor’s connector, or mice have chewed into the harness for the sensor. If you do a board search for a CKP code, or code 19, there’s a lot to read about.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Once you reach the required cranking time, more than 10 seconds, it will start to flash. You can stop cranking when it starts flashing. It will flash the code, then pause and repeat the code.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i cranked for around 15 seconds the light came on but did not flash,i have all the plastics off to check to see if a mouse moved in but i did not see anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i had it up on the center stand checked it again with the kick stand down and got a number 18 code.I need to stop speed reading.
 

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Great.
Here is a list of the codes to get you started. BTW. I saved a copy of these.

Hopefully the techdude2000 will be online at some stage.

In the meantime I would inspect and clean the battery contacts so they are bright and charge the battery.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system
 

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Vendor
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Are you positive its count is 18 and not 19 ??? Code 18 means it's the cam sensor circuit. It's been years since I've heard of a cam sensor going bad. Although the Service Manual will probably tell you to remove the cowl to get to it, I believe you can get to it by removing the upper center cowl, and the left inner cowl only. Follow Rob's advise for diagnosing the circuit. Once your circuit is fixed, don't forget to erase the code, and if the sensor gets replaced, be sure to replace its o-ring too.

18 = 1 long and 8 short
 

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I find it hard to believe that this is the 10th post and I am going to be the first to tell you that you probably have a weak battery. This bike will crank hard with a weak battery but no spark goes to the plugs. If your voltage drops below a certain point. Around 10 volts. Get a load test done. Welcome to the forum.

Richard
 

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I find it hard to believe that this is the 10th post and I am going to be the first to tell you that you probably have a weak battery. This bike will crank hard with a weak battery but no spark goes to the plugs. If your voltage drops below a certain point. Around 10 volts. Get a load test done. Welcome to the forum.

Richard
Good point ... all electrical problems should start with knowing that the battery tests good and healthy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I charged the battery and it seems to crank strong but I noticed the tach does not move when cranking also got Fl 18
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I READ THAT FL 18 REFERS TO FUEL NOT SPARK BUT I PULLED THE PLUGS AND CHECKED FOR SPARK BY GROUDING OUT THE PLUG AND CRANKING WHILE LOOKING FOR SPARK AND DID NOT SEE ANY
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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No way to actually test it, but you should take an ohmmeter and check the continuity of its wires from the sensor up to the ECM’s connector. I don’t remember ever seeing or hearing of a camshaft sensor going bad In the 15.5 years of owning and repairing the 1800 wing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I checked the codes twice and 1long and 8 short,but i'll check it again to be positive.i did replaced the battery with one out of another bike,i will load test it when i get home.Should i be able to see spark at the plug like you can on a car?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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I checked the codes twice and 1long and 8 short,but i'll check it again to be positive.i did replaced the battery with one out of another bike,i will load test it when i get home.Should i be able to see spark at the plug like you can on a car?
Not as long as the ECM “thinks” there’s an issue, it will keep the ignition off until the timing pulses are correct. It does this to protect the engine in case there was a mechanical reason for the timing to be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have not had a chance to check the wiring to the sensor or load test battery,i will post my findings.,hopefully soon
 
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