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I have a new-to-me 2007 GL1800 ABS, that I bought a couple of months ago. My temperature gauge usually runs just under the half way mark...is this considered normal? If I get stuck in traffic, or idle for even a short amount of time the fan comes on, but will shut off once I am underway again. I was just wondering if this is the norm for this bike.
 

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Normal
 

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Sounds dead on to me. I think all will agree it will climb if it's hot out and you're in traffic about 15 to 20 mph, the fans blow forward and are over posted by incoming air this the radiator air flow is stagnant, just speed up till the fans turn off or slow down to let air blow forward again. Desert parks and city traffic seem to exercise your engine temp gauge.

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I have a new-to-me 2007 GL1800 ABS, that I bought a couple of months ago. My temperature gauge usually runs just under the half way mark...is this considered normal? If I get stuck in traffic, or idle for even a short amount of time the fan comes on, but will shut off once I am underway again. I was just wondering if this is the norm for this bike.



This sounds normal. Something else that you might not realize is that the fan will not run if you're moving fast than 15-20 mph (not sure exactly where the cut-off is). The fans actually blow out the front (weird, right?). Once you get rolling fast enough, the forward motion of the bike fights the force of the fan, causing the air to "stall" and actually make it more prone to overheating (think riding in a parade). When the fan shuts off while moving, the normal air flow (in the front and out the sides) allows the bike to cool off.


If you ever run into an overheating situation, you have two choices. First option is to pull over and let the bike idle. The fans will run and cool the engine. Second option is to get up to speed and let the natural airflow take the heat from the engine/radiators.
 

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I have a new-to-me 2007 GL1800 ABS, that I bought a couple of months ago. My temperature gauge usually runs just under the half way mark...is this considered normal? If I get stuck in traffic, or idle for even a short amount of time the fan comes on, but will shut off once I am underway again. I was just wondering if this is the norm for this bike.
Your's is very normal. Once the bike warms, and if you have a health cooling system, your temp gauge should never go above the 1/2 mark.

If you don't know how old your coolant is, or if it's older then 2yrs/24k, whichever is first, be sure to change it. There are many who don't follow Honda's maintenance schedule, and eventually report problems because of it.
 

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I have a new-to-me 2007 GL1800 ABS, that I bought a couple of months ago. My temperature gauge usually runs just under the half way mark...is this considered normal? If I get stuck in traffic, or idle for even a short amount of time the fan comes on, but will shut off once I am underway again. I was just wondering if this is the norm for this bike.
Your's is very normal. The fans can run anywhere between 0 and about 20mph. Once the bike warms, and if you have a health cooling system, your temp gauge should never go above the 1/2 mark.

If you don't know how old your coolant is, or if it's older then 2yrs/24k, whichever is first, be sure to change it. There are many who don't follow Honda's maintenance schedule, and eventually report problems because of it.
 

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Someone on this forum explained that the coolant temperature gauge as like an idiot light. It will rise to just below the half way point and stay there unless there is an overheating problem. It doesn't move as the temperature fluctuates while the engine is running. I have owned my Wing for nine years and I have seen the needle at the low point, where it is when the engine is off, and just below the half way point once it warms up. When the fans turn on, it's in the same place and when the fans turn off it's in the same place.
 

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Overheating

One thing to note is if your bike is starting to get hot, keep the RPMs down. Do not downshift to get the RPMs up.

I had an 08 and the only time I saw it start to get warmer than normal was when I was following slow traffic up a mountain. Thankfully the bike has a significant amount of torque at low RPM, so I could allow the bike to get below 2K RPM and not have any trouble with the engine lugging. BTW: If the roads a clear enough that I can ride at my "normal" speed, I have no issues at all with overheating in the mountains.
 

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The only time I saw my temp gauge go up on my 08 was back in June heading to the top of Pikes Peak. Near the red on the gauge but never overheated. Like someone said earlier, keep your cooling system maintenance up to date!!!
 

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I was up there last week. It was -4 with a 50-mph wind... Bet you'd have been just fine.
 

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Someone on this forum explained that the coolant temperature gauge as like an idiot light. It will rise to just below the half way point and stay there unless there is an overheating problem. It doesn't move as the temperature fluctuates while the engine is running. I have owned my Wing for nine years and I have seen the needle at the low point, where it is when the engine is off, and just below the half way point once it warms up. When the fans turn on, it's in the same place and when the fans turn off it's in the same place.
It's not just a flat spot in the gauge.
It's also the thermostat doing what it's designed/intended to do.

It changes the amount of flow as the temperature varies -- more flow more cooling -- reducing the temperature fluctuation.

But a thermostat isn't an on/off device. It will have a range of temperature between when it is open and when it is closed.

Fwiw, thermostats are normally rated by the temperature at which the start to open.

From Stant website:

http://www.stant.com/index.php/english/products/consumer-products/thermostats/abcs-thermostats/

THERMOSTAT TEMPERATURES
Thermostats have a “rated” temperature such as 180F or 195F
This is the temperature the thermostat will start to open, give or take 3 degrees
The thermostat fully open about 15-20 degrees above its rated temperature
Many thermostats have a “jiggle pin” or “check valve” that allows trapped air in the cooling system to pass through the thermostat and be released from the system.
If a Stant thermostat does not have a jiggle pin, it will have a "bleed notch” or other method of removing air from the system.



If the temp gauge didn't stay relatively flat when in/near the range of temps from thermostat starting to open to fully open, that the dealers would be forever dealing with customers insisting the the gage in their vehicle was varying too much and that there was must be something wrong with their car/truck/motorcycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your's is very normal. Once the bike warms, and if you have a health cooling system, your temp gauge should never go above the 1/2 mark.

If you don't know how old your coolant is, or if it's older then 2yrs/24k, whichever is first, be sure to change it. There are many who don't follow Honda's maintenance schedule, and eventually report problems because of it.
I just looked through the service records that I was given...it doesn't seem like the coolant has ever been changed. The bike has 38K, so I think I better get on it. I am going to head over to youtube, there must be some good how-to videos. Are there any special considerations that I should be aware of?
 

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I just looked through the service records that I was given...it doesn't seem like the coolant has ever been changed. The bike has 38K, so I think I better get on it. I am going to head over to youtube, there must be some good how-to videos. Are there any special considerations that I should be aware of?



You should check out videos by our in-house guru - Fred H. He's got a series of them on performing routine maintenance on GL1800s.
 

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Someone on this forum explained that the coolant temperature gauge as like an idiot light. It will rise to just below the half way point and stay there unless there is an overheating problem. It doesn't move as the temperature fluctuates while the engine is running.
"It doesn't move as the temperature fluctuates while the engine is running." That is incorrect information. Our temp gauge works on a liner scale like our fuel gauge does. The colder or hotter the engine gets is directly reflected by needle movement. What you are observing is well controlled cooling system much like a modern day car.

I'd have to pull inferred records, but at operating temperature, I think the temp swing between when our fans turn on and off is only about 10 degree difference.
 

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I just looked through the service records that I was given...it doesn't seem like the coolant has ever been changed. The bike has 38K, so I think I better get on it. I am going to head over to youtube, there must be some good how-to videos. Are there any special considerations that I should be aware of?
Yes ... it sounds like you coolant change is over due. Be sure to pressure test the cooling system and cap prior to changing the coolant. Others have said that their local auto parts store will have the pressure tester kit on a loaner program. Do a high pressure test at 16-20psi and a low 6-8psi for about 4hrs each. Be sure to replace the coolants crush washer. Remove the reservoir and inspect the tube, level for cracking as well as the 2 reservoir hoses. It's not uncommon for all 3 to need replacing too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just called the local Honda Dealer and they told me about $150 to flush and replace the coolant. Is it pretty easy...or should I have them do it? I also asked about the air filter, $250 for that one! $400 for air filter and coolant...can't really afford both right now, which one would be the priority?
 

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Coolant change is maybe 45 mins and not bad. Filter call is under the right forward pocket just a couple screws to expose. Drain is very small and easy access front left bottom of the engine. The air filter is more of a PITA. First time is typically a 3-4 hour journey of Discovery, second time it's faster, third and you'll knock it out in 2 hours and be checking things that are only accessible under the shelter. If you search the forum for filter change there are several good ones, or links to complete instructional pictures on what needs to be done. We think the Goldwing was built around it's air filter and high beams! Certainly a lot cheaper to do yourself, maybe $40 and 4.5 hours. I find taping screws close to where they were removed and taking pictures as you proceed helps with the re-assembly of the seat, dash and shelter. Take notes along the way as you dive in. There are several different length shoulder bolts holding the Tupperware in place, they should not be mixed up... Mark them as needed and tape them up close to where you removed them. A the wrong bolt tightened up can crack the plastic, as the shoulders prevent crushing the correct fairing piece or fender.

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"It doesn't move as the temperature fluctuates while the engine is running." That is incorrect information. Our temp gauge works on a liner scale like our fuel gauge does. The colder or hotter the engine gets is directly reflected by needle movement. What you are observing is well controlled cooling system much like a modern day car.
I have to strongly disagree. I was just recently playing around with my temp gauge. I added a digital water temp meter (because the stock gauge is pretty much an idiot light).

Sure enough, the stock water temp gauge stays motionless (just below mid point) from about 70c to 100c. The fans come on at 100c and go off at 95c.

On the freeway, the temp stayed consistent at 81c. Around town it was 85c, without a prolonged stop. Outside temp was in the 50's farenheit.

2013 F6b

 
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