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Hi
I have had 4 gold wings now. None of my gold wings ever shifted smoothly like my Yamaha's and other bikes .
Going from 1 to 2 I try to always shift at high RPMs . I try to practice good shifting discipline but its always chuncky or seems to not always mesh good - not exactly a grind just what I think.of as a slip or partial sync . Higher gears seem better but still shifting is not smooth . Ever . I adjusted the shift lever . My F6B barely has 8 thousand miles .
I have heard of this oil with Teflon . Some kind of synthetic oil . Any thoughts on smoothing out the shifts ?
 

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You could try a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella T6 (that is what I always use) but stay away from anything that has Teflon in it or other slippery additives. Remeber that you have a wet clutch. The clutch is in the same oil bath as your transmission.
 
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Other than the 1-2 gear change, my 2001 shifts very smooth unless it's my error.
Mobil/Exxon DelVac 1 ESP 5w-40 full synthetic. Not making a recommendation because it's not Honda spec but it's worked great in all my prior bikes too.
 

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Maybe Greg will chime in...he's the "local" gear box guy...I used to modify Honda singles ( XL250/350) for racing ....the "second" gear has the most movement to make...as it moves from 1st gear, neutral, and finally second...there are no syncros ( brass bushings with engagement "teeth" to help the meshing of the gears) , but "dogs" or "tabs" cast into the gear's "body" that engage or dis-engage the mating gear's "dogs"...the clearance between the mating dogs on the tranny's shaft is small and if you "miss a shift" while applying throttle you can "round off" the corners of the "dogs"...when the corners get too round it causes the gear to slip or dis-engage. ( search YouTube for videos showing how a motorcycle gear box works)
IMO, both Michael and Jetta send you good advice...you do not want "too slippery" of an oil ( car oils contain some kind of additive of increased mileage, but do not work well with our wet clutches)
a) suggest you look at the age of the clutch hydraulic fluid ...when was the last time you changed it?...maybe the clutch is NOT fully dis-engaging causing your shifting issues
b) do you use "grip puppys" or after market grips? sometimes the grips will cause an interference with the clutch levers movement
c) how are the bushings in the clutch lever?...there are two to look at.... the main pivot bushing and the bushing that interfaces with the hydraulic push rod up in the lever's "master cylinder"...these need to be greased time to time and if worn out of round will cause problems
d) do you ride with gloves all the time...do the gloves cause you clutch action to be less than optimal
e) boots...have you tried different boots/shoes to see if it makes a difference
f) Like Jetta, I too have used diesel oil in my prior wings with good results...you may want to give a conventional diesel oil a try...Walmart carries major brands
hth
 

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I have a 1500 and a 2008 Wing. The 1500 shifts better than the 1800. However, over time the 1800 has become smoother, either because of my shifting technique or because the transmission components are "worn in", or both. The bike only has 30,000 miles. I have tried several types of oil, but now I usually use Rotella 15W-40 (diesel). I found little to no difference in the various grades and brands of oil. Someone on this board recommended using a zinc additive to provide lubricant to the transmission. You might find the thread by searching for "zinc additive for oil".
 

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Hi
I have had 4 gold wings now. None of my gold wings ever shifted smoothly like my Yamaha's and other bikes .
Going from 1 to 2 I try to always shift at high RPMs . I try to practice good shifting discipline but its always chuncky or seems to not always mesh good - not exactly a grind just what I think.of as a slip or partial sync . Higher gears seem better but still shifting is not smooth . Ever . I adjusted the shift lever . My F6B barely has 8 thousand miles .
I have heard of this oil with Teflon . Some kind of synthetic oil . Any thoughts on smoothing out the shifts ?
I'm assuming yours is not a 2013, but a 2014+ ... is that correct ???

No matter who tells you that an additive will help, absolutely do not, in any way shape or form, follow their advice !!!
 

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One of my biggest surprises when I purchased used my 2003 GW was how "clunky" the shifting, certainly not anything like the BMW's but Clunky when compared to other Honda bikes. It always bothered me & I tried different remedies , in my experience what has worked the best is a dedicated motorcycle oil in 20/50wt, Synthetic or conventional didn't seem to make any difference. Many may disagree on the 20/50 wt, but it has worked well for me in both MN & SoCal. jmop
 

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My 2c worth ( and probably overpriced at that) would be that the GW transmission seems to “like” firm shifts. Some of us have taken to slightly pre-loading the shifter with gentle pressure just before disengaging the clutch. It seems to make the shift a bit quicker and more firm. I find also, especially when riding a bit aggressively (as some of “friends” require of me) that intentional firmness is my friend. I’m not talking about jamming or forcing a shift. They just seem to “like” more pressure than I used to give them.
 

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RPM matching seems to be the best fix. I have also noticed that pre-loading the shifter helps. Another thing that helps is to shift very quickly. Meaning quick clutch and throttle action. That keeps the engine from slowing down too far, thus a closer rpm match.
 

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The best way to smooth out the perceived or real GW shift clunkiness is to ride a pre 2014 BMW. It will keep you from complaining about any Honda. A good BMW pilot learns how to shift and minimize the engine-speed dry clutch design that adds significant complexity to exactly matching up clutch/toe/throttle inputs and when you get back on the GW the effort to smooth the shifts will be easier to do. Most of what people seem to say is true. Revs to 3500 or more, preload the shifter, shift like you mean it, shift with authority, with a quick throttle roll off combined with a half pull on the clutch lever. For as big as it is the GL motor has little flywheel effect and if I lolly gag around the engine revs get out of synch with the gearbox. It's only the 1-2 shift, the rest are smooth.
 

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Kawasaki Vulcan 1500/1600/1700's or Harleys (except V-rod):
Ride one of these, or "the Toaster" R model BMW's, and all your "Clunkiness" on your Goldwings will evaporate!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi
I have had 4 gold wings now. None of my gold wings ever shifted smoothly like my Yamaha's and other bikes .
Going from 1 to 2 I try to always shift at high RPMs . I try to practice good shifting discipline but its always chuncky or seems to not always mesh good - not exactly a grind just what I think.of as a slip or partial sync . Higher gears seem better but still shifting is not smooth . Ever . I adjusted the shift lever . My F6B barely has 8 thousand miles .
I have heard of this oil with Teflon . Some kind of synthetic oil . Any thoughts on smoothing out the shifts ?
Thanks . Its important to note that my 2014 has 8000 miles on it . I think at low speed shoring is smooth .
 

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I really think "shifting technique" has more to do with shifting than anything else. Just my opinion.

But I have only ridden Gold Wing's about 350k miles. Several different ones.
Although 350k may seem like a lot of miles; however, on the flip side, my guess says it also represents only handful of GoldWings.
 

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Thanks . Its important to note that my 2014 has 8000 miles on it . I think at low speed shoring is smooth .
WOW ... no response for post #6 :(

I would have thought you'd have wonder how I some how knew that you probably rode a 2014-17 GL1800 ??? Of all the years, how I would have known that ???
 

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I really think "shifting technique" has more to do with shifting than anything else. Just my opinion.

But I have only ridden Gold Wing's about 350k miles. Several different ones.
I have found that if there's any delay in the shifting, it gets "clunky". In other words, when you want to shift, don't preload the lever or hesitate in shifting at all.... pull in the clutch at the exact time you move the shifter. Let out the clutch momentarily at half way and then all the way out. This allows the gears to mesh up and transfer the power to the wheel without jerkiness or noise. Takes practice but my shifting is generally just a slight click being heard. Don't hesitate and you should have smooth shifting.
 

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WOW ... no response for post #6 :(

I would have thought you'd have wonder how I some how knew that you probably rode a 2014-17 GL1800 ??? Of all the years, how I would have known that ???
Okay Greg, I'll bite. How did you know his clunky shifting wing was a '14-17, and not a '13? I'll guess: In 2014 Honda changed the shifter mech. to all short dogs, instead of short & long? It would be nice to hear that, although my '13 F6B might fall prey to "Ghost Shifting", at least it will shift smoother on its way to destruction?
 

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One thing that will help shifting is to use a slightly higher viscosity oil. If you don't ride in really cold temps, then I'd suggest trying Mobil One 15w-50. I think you'll also find that the longer you leave the oil in between changes, the more clunky the shifting gets. If you stick to a 3-4K mile oil change, you'll have better shifts, and probably save wear on your transmission.
 

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In addition to the above, try riding another somewhat older bike occasionally. I find that after riding my 86 Aspy all winter, the 02 and 03 seem to be much smoother. How quickly we forget how some of the other bikes actually were.
 
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