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2008 with 31,000 miles. Drove early in the day for 45", got gas, went home and parked.
2 hours later rode it 1.5 miles, then let it sit for 2 hours. Temps today were about 50 F. Went to start it and no start...no almost catching, stumbling, etc. Starter turned fast but that was all it did. Tried this about 4 times, with turning bike off, on again, neutral, clutch in and out, etc. No flashing codes. By this point I was thinking i just might be stranded.

Finally, I turned the throttle WOT and it started almost immediately, just like it normally does. Left me with the impression the first 4-5 tries were no starts b/c there was no fuel being injected. I'm tempted to just forget about it like it was the one off event, but maybe there is worse to come? Comments? Suggestions?
 

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Not sure what your problem is (was?), but bike should not start on WOT. WOT is used to crank engine to get the codes (was your sidestand down?) and (from olden days) to clear flooded engine. I'll bet you were almost WOT and it may have started at lesser throttle setting (i.e. problem corrected itself - which is the worst kind to have!).
 

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There is no such thing as a "one off event." Under the same circumstances, your issue will reoccur. I recommend that your battery connections be cleaned, and your battery be tested. If all good there, pull the seat and pull DTC codes.
 

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Here's my guess: After riding you stopped and got gas, did you fill it pretty full up into the neck of the tank? Afterword at home sitting for two hours the engine heat caused the gas in the full tank to expand a bit and overflow some into the charcoal canister. Then when you rode the extra 1.5 miles the charcoal canister went into purge mode and the engine started sucking gasoline vapors or even liquid gasoline from the canister into the intake manifold causing a very rich condition. Maybe when you tried to start later there was still gasoline from the canister in the manifold and it took the nearly WOT to clear the flooded condition?
 

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How old is the battery? Sounds like a loose battery connection or a battery on its last leg.
 

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Not sure what your problem is (was?), but bike should not start on WOT. WOT is used to crank engine to get the codes (was your sidestand down?) and (from olden days) to clear flooded engine. I'll bet you were almost WOT and it may have started at lesser throttle setting (i.e. problem corrected itself - which is the worst kind to have!).
You're right, it wasn't fully open just about 1/2 to 3/4 open.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There is no such thing as a "one off event." Under the same circumstances, your issue will reoccur. I recommend that your battery connections be cleaned, and your battery be tested. If all good there, pull the seat and pull DTC codes.
Briefly, how do I pull the codes? Or, where in the service manual does it tell me (I do have that). Thanks.
 

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Sometimes a battery will have enough power to crank the starter (even fast) but not have enough power to crank the starter and fire the ignition at the same time.

Thus battery failing a load test.....!
 

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How old is the battery? Sounds like a loose battery connection or a battery on its last leg.
Battery is original. Really. I check with Yuasa and confirmed it. But I don't think that's it b/c it cranked really fast like normal and there were absolutely no indications of a weak battery--no odd lights, blinking lights, clicking, etc. My impression was I could have continued to crank for at least another 2-3 minutes continuously. Not that I would have. I just serviced the battery connections 2 months ago but will take another look; things change. Thank.
 

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Sometimes a battery will have enough power to crank the starter (even fast) but not have enough power to crank the starter and fire the ignition at the same time.

Thus battery failing a load test.....!
Hmmm. I did not know that. I use a carbon pile battery tester and it tested very good just 2 months ago but sounds like it's time to take another look. As I mentioned elsewhere here, the battery is in its 13th year so a failing battery is starting to sound more and more like the culprit.
 

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Hmmm. I did not know that. I use a carbon pile battery tester and it tested very good just 2 months ago but sounds like it's time to take another look. As I mentioned elsewhere here, the battery is in its 13th year so a failing battery is starting to sound more and more like the culprit.
Check the battery voltage while the starter is running. You may find low voltage...something less than around 10.5 volts....!!!

If you don't have a "load tester", most auto parts stores can do a load test for FREE....!!

A battery can test good at rest (12.5 - 12.7 volts) then fail a load test. Starters draw a lot of amperage....!!!
 

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Briefly, how do I pull the codes? Or, where in the service manual does it tell me (I do have that). Thanks.
Go to the PGI-Fi > troubleshooting section. It's usually section 6.
 

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Check the battery voltage while the starter is running. You may find low voltage...something less than around 10.5 volts....!!!

If you don't have a "load tester", most auto parts stores can do a load test for FREE....!!

A battery can test good at rest (12.5 - 12.7 volts) then fail a load test. Starters draw a lot of amperage....!!!
Isn’t a battery tester a load tester? I”m not talking about a simple VOM test. I used a device that tests the continuous flow of amperes out of the battery for like 15-20 seconds, and if the current was constant it read in the green (sorry, I don’t recall the numbers involved but I want to say they were in the 600-650 A/H range.
I’ll absolutely be looking at a new battery before any road trips, but I’m just asking to make sure I understand this a bit better. Thanks.
 

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2008 with 31,000 miles. Drove early in the day for 45", got gas, went home and parked.
2 hours later rode it 1.5 miles, then let it sit for 2 hours. Temps today were about 50 F. Went to start it and no start...no almost catching, stumbling, etc. Starter turned fast but that was all it did. Tried this about 4 times, with turning bike off, on again, neutral, clutch in and out, etc. No flashing codes. By this point I was thinking i just might be stranded.

Finally, I turned the throttle WOT and it started almost immediately, just like it normally does. Left me with the impression the first 4-5 tries were no starts b/c there was no fuel being injected. I'm tempted to just forget about it like it was the one off event, but maybe there is worse to come? Comments? Suggestions?

This is an easy one. A 2008 with 31K on it. The bike is simply angry at you for not riding it.
 

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This is an easy one. A 2008 with 31K on it. The bike is simply angry at you for not riding it.
I have had the same related problem with two different vehicles that are not Goldwings. First my 1990 Dodge 8 passenger van would turn over fast but not start. This was not all the time but enough to be upsetting. I had the battery load tested and it was good. The van would always start with a second battery connected. The problem with the Van was the computer was sensing low voltage for the ignition. On that vehicle I suspect when they said computer they meant ECM or some computer type chip. Then in 2008, I had a Chevy Silverado 1500 with slide in camper on it. The truck was broken into and the perps broke the ignition switch with a screw driver. They stole the radio but could not drive off. My father worked for Chevrolet his entire working life eventually becoming a Service Manager. I told him I could put the key in and the engine would start-die, start-die. He said that the perps when they broke into the ignition switch they broke a circuit board (which I found on the floor) and that circuit board changes the voltage that the ignition needs to run. The ignition does not run at 12 volts but a lesser voltage and if my memory is correct he said 8 volts. So, even though you had a battery turning over the engine, like others have said it may not have given off the correct voltage to run the bike.
 

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Isn’t a battery tester a load tester? I”m not talking about a simple VOM test. I used a device that tests the continuous flow of amperes out of the battery for like 15-20 seconds, and if the current was constant it read in the green (sorry, I don’t recall the numbers involved but I want to say they were in the 600-650 A/H range.
I’ll absolutely be looking at a new battery before any road trips, but I’m just asking to make sure I understand this a bit better. Thanks.
Does the device you are using actually create an "high amperage draw" on the battery for a few minutes....!! That is a load test....!!
 

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Check the battery voltage while the starter is running. You may find low voltage...something less than around 10.5 volts....!!!

If you don't have a "load tester", most auto parts stores can do a load test for FREE....!!

A battery can test good at rest (12.5 - 12.7 volts) then fail a load test. Starters draw a lot of amperage....!!!
I agree, I had a battery that was giving me problems. When doing a load test it was dropping below 10 volts even though it showed 12.8 when not under load. Replaced the battery and the problems disappeared. Money well spent.


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