GL1800Riders Forums banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
2008 with 31,000 miles. Drove early in the day for 45", got gas, went home and parked.
2 hours later rode it 1.5 miles, then let it sit for 2 hours. Temps today were about 50 F. Went to start it and no start...no almost catching, stumbling, etc. Starter turned fast but that was all it did. Tried this about 4 times, with turning bike off, on again, neutral, clutch in and out, etc. No flashing codes. By this point I was thinking i just might be stranded.

Finally, I turned the throttle WOT and it started almost immediately, just like it normally does. Left me with the impression the first 4-5 tries were no starts b/c there was no fuel being injected. I'm tempted to just forget about it like it was the one off event, but maybe there is worse to come? Comments? Suggestions?
I also was gonna suggest the dreaded crank position sensor, but since you said there were no codes AND the battery was in it's 13th year (HOLY COW!!!) then yes, I would certainly load test the battery. Even a regular car mechanic should have a computer controlled battery tester that will do it. I've never had a battery go 13 years on anything... I guess Yausa is worth getting again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,972 Posts
My battery is also coming up on 13yrs old, but still working fine. Everyone should own their own load tester. I have one, and it's nice not to guess about battery condition. There are many out there and they aren't all that expensive for most of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,019 Posts
I replaced my previous battery after only 3-1/2 years. All it took was one obvious slow start for me to yank it out and install a new one. A new battery is far cheaper than the expense and aggravation of a no start incident when you are 1000 miles from home.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,287 Posts
I just don't trust bike batteries. So a couple years ago, I bought and started carrying a small jump start battery pack in one of my saddle bags. Comforting to know that there is a "plan B" when you're out on the back road boonies by yourself and have to stop to take a leak - a frequent need for some of us... :rolleyes: That said - it's unclear to me how far I would be able to ride with a funky battery once started... :unsure:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I also was gonna suggest the dreaded crank position sensor, but since you said there were no codes AND the battery was in it's 13th year (HOLY COW!!!) then yes, I would certainly load test the battery. Even a regular car mechanic should have a computer controlled battery tester that will do it. I've never had a battery go 13 years on anything... I guess Yausa is worth getting again!
I know, right? I have a hard time believing that and I'm the one who said it! I tried to read the battery code but could not, and emailed YUASA customer support this past winter. The tech responded the next day telling me the battery was produced in September of 2008, same year as my bike. Somebody else on a different thread here on the Forum stated that he thought Honda OEM YUASA batteries were better than what you get ordering anywhere else (e.g., Amazon). You'd think the Brand/Model would always be the same quality but with the time this original battery has gone, there might be some truth to what that poster said.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I replaced my previous battery after only 3-1/2 years. All it took was one obvious slow start for me to yank it out and install a new one. A new battery is far cheaper than the expense and aggravation of a no start incident when you are 1000 miles from home.
Or even 30 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Let's clear somethings up; load testing a battery that is not completely charged is a waste of time. (low specific gravity)
Years ago cars used a 8+- volt coil, when the starter was engaged it would by-pass the ballast resister that normally reduced the voltage that the coil ran on and supply battery voltage direct to the coil which while cranking would be approximately 10 volts +-, this way you would not have a 12 volt coil that was only seeing 10 volts while cranking.
You could have got a slug of water in the last fill-up that finally arrived at the injectors and caused your issue? (wet plugs) You may never know what actually happened unless it becomes a problem...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
You could have got a slug of water in the last fill-up that finally arrived at the injectors and caused your issue? (wet plugs) You may never know what actually happened unless it becomes a problem...
I was and remain a little suspicious of the last fuel fill up, so you may be right. Goldwingergreg said there's no such thing as a one-off which does make mechanical sense, but that's how I'm proceeding on this problem--that it was a fluke. I will be load testing the batt, checking connections, and replacing it before any long haul trips, but if or as I learn more I'll post back again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
687 Posts
Probably the more appropriate thing to say is; problems don't fix themselves and I agree but there are one offs, if it was water or something other than fuel.
Once my car struggled to maintain 5 MPH when I was trying to leave a parking lot after I just started it, I had to stop turn it off and restart it. the problem never happened before or since. No engine light, no codes and it was not in limp mode. Who knows?
I spent my life in this business as a Master tech but without a crystal ball some things may never be known...
Unfortunately....
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top