Going to start changing my own oil and filter, having never done this on any vehicle, before. Service manual says to change the drain bolt sealing washer each time. Is this something you do or skip? Is this washer readily available?
I have yet to replace the gasket washer on any wing ever. That don't make it right, but I have never had a problem.
If you have a Tulsa belly pan, only the front of it has to come off. The Front Cowl does not have to come off and you do not really want to do it either. Next, if you are useing Honda filters, you need to get a filter wrench from Hal. Best money I have spent,
from one Mark to another, try to fill the new filter with fresh oil before you put it on the engine. I always try to do this so the engine doesnt run dry while the new oil is being pumped into the new filter. Have a couple of rags handy just in case you spill. Good luck.
The best advice i can give you is do NOT overtighten the drain plug, i use a socket on mine. If you overtighten it, you can possibly strip out the alumineum threads. Don't ask me how i know this. Also i dump in 4 complete quarts of oil.
The soft aluminum washer will last for some time. It might be a good idea to change it every two years or more, assumming that you are not obsessive about changing the oil. I change mine every 5k-6k using synthetic oil even though the Honda recommended mileage for a change is 8000 miles. The 5-6K works for me since I put about 18K on per year. So I change it in March, July and November more or less.
You will get more life out of the washer because you are doing your own work and you will torque it to the Ft-Lbs recommended in your manual, instead of going "by feel".
I'm told that these washers can be bought at Home Depot, etc., but the only one I ever replaced was purchased through a mechanic.
If it ever leaks with the proper torque, replace it for sure.
I keep telling myself to get a spare washer. I have changed the oil about 4 times and haven't had a problem. Even if it did leak it would likely be minimal. A torque wrench is handy for this job. $20 at Sears will get a suitable beam type. Just get one with the correct torque range. The aluminium threads on the drain can be damaged easily. Likewise the filter shouldn't be overtightened. You will need a cup/spanner wrench if you choose to torque the filter. Kmart, Walmart and parts stores have them. Take along a new filter to check the fit. I use the plastic one from Walmart that has a metal 3/8" drive. Kmart sells a metal Penske wrench.
All you asked was advise about a washer. I guess I got carried away. Ask me what is the time and I may tell you how to build a clock. :lol:
Mark, I've had 3 Goldwings now since 97. The manuel on each said to change the washer at each oil change. I have yet to change one and have never had a leak. I check it for cracks and signs of wear and have never had a need for a new one. Most of the time it will stick to the engine when you take the drain bolt out. It comes off with your fingernail. Just try not to drop in in your drain pan.
When you install the new filter, make sure you dip you finger in a new bottle of oil and run it around the seal on the filter to make sure it seals properly.
The first time or two can be a little nerve racking, but you'll be fine.
First, be carefull not to loose the washer when you remove the plug. If you do then you will need to look in the drain pan for it. Second I just use a strap type filter wrench to remove the old filter. When installing the new filter put a little oil on the rubber seal on the filter before screwing it on. Tighten the filter only hand tight. A torque wrench is a good idea too.
I always change the washer considering the 50 cents or less that it costs even if it is not necessary. I find it difficult to get a torque wrench in to tighten either the filter or the drain plug - so do it by feel. The flat filter wrench is definitely a good investment.
I use a bean type torque wrench to tighten the drain plug, experience has shown that most overtighten the drain plug, meaning it's harder to remove the next time, and it also eliminates any chance of stripping the threads due to overtightening.
The 3/8 in beam type fits easily without removing the lower cowl.
HELLO MARK, MY 2 CENTS WORTH IT'S VERY EASY TO DO A REAL MONEY SAVER TOO. I PURCHASED MY OIL FILTER WRENCH @ AN AUTO PARTS STORE IT'S 2 1/2 INCHES ACROSS AND USED MOBIL 1 15-50 OIL 3.9 QTS. (RED CAP) GOOD LUCK TONY - :blw1: CHICAGOLAND
The only thing that I would add is get a good torque wrench. A ratchet type that clicks when you reach the torque that you set it for. You can get a 3/8 drive one from Sears for about $50 and it will last you for the rest of your life with a little care. There is no substitute for good tools. Not that I'm against beam type torque wrenches, but it has always been my feeling that they were closer to an approxamation than an exact torque setting. Plus when you are trying to torque the oil bolt it is going to be hard to see correctly as opposed to hearing the wrench go "click" and the release of pressure momentarily when you reach the correct torque.