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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a newer wing owner and I have decided I want to change my own oil vice overpaying my local dealer.

I plan on using the Purolator PL 14612 and RotellaT 5w-40

Having said that.... Any tips or tricks to actually doing the change itself?

Do you really need to remove the lower Cowl?

Do you really have to replace the seal on the drain plug with every change? Where can i get them?

I appreciate any input.

Thanks
 

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I concur

Just warm her up with a short ride or idling in your open garage.
Put her on the center stand and get busy. Lay on the ground and you can see the filter. I pulled the cowl the first time too. But I wanted to see what all was under there.
The Crush washer can be reused. Mine has over 43k on her :D
 

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Joel, You will need a filter wrench. I made a small chain (strap

wrench). A store bought box end type will fit filters as the

Honda OEM. Washers, wrench and filters are on our sponsors

site. Washers fit the final drive also.
 

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Replacing the cowl on both of my wings was the most frustrating thing. You can reach under it to change the oil. I use a socket type oil filter wrench and it will just fit. I can bend the cowl back a half inch to get the ratchet in place.Take the drain plug out first and then open the fill plug. That will let the oil drain slower while you are taking out the drain plug. Let it sit for a while and then take the filter off. When you fill it up just pour one gallon in it and don't bother checking the level as that is another frustrating thing. When I replace the filter I have trouble getting it tight with my hand as the cowl makes it difficult to get a good grip. I use the wrench to tighten but very gently.
 

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+1 on the wrench, 17mm socket for the drain plug. Agree with warming up a bit and letting her drain real good. 1 gallon in , 1 gallon out, never have looked at the dipstick.

Please don't throw your used oil away. ;) ...thinkin' green! :biggrin:
 

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oil change

17m box wrench is easier, make sure your drain pan will fit before you drain, or you will have oil every where! Advance Auto Recycle's oil, and it's free. Make sure your funnel will fit in the hole, long and narrow, you might need help with that gallon jug, and funnel the first time, (one more thing make sure you put fresh oil around the rubber ring on the filter with your finger) It will help the next time you change your oil!!!!!!
 

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Tricks to changing oil

1) start up motorcycle...ride to liquor store to purchase appropriate beverage

2) come home, put bike on center stand, pop a cool one

3) remove drain plug with 17mm socket, allow to drain...enjoy the cool one

4) reach under and behind the front cowl and remove oil filter...you will need either the wrench sold by Hal or I purchased a $3 "cap" from WalMArt that fits on the end of the filter and uses your socket wrench to remove...remove filter allow to drain

5) pop another cool one, fiddle with radio stations/AM/iPod...polish the motorcycle

6) reinstall the filter, drain plug and crush washer (new washer, old washer or no washer...does not seem to matter)

7) pour in 4qts of oil (not even going to begin to state what type) and start up the engine...check for leaks etc.

8) pop another cool one and go relax after a job well done and saving yourself some $$

Seriously...it is a very simple job
 

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:agree:What every one said. I use the "plyers" type filter wrench , about 6 or 8 bucks at Wally World. that seems to work better for me since I use a long oil filter. I do check the dipstick but it has always been spot on so it is just for my peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I like

Tricks to changing oil

1) start up motorcycle...ride to liquor store to purchase appropriate beverage

2) come home, put bike on center stand, pop a cool one

3) remove drain plug with 17mm socket, allow to drain...enjoy the cool one

4) reach under and behind the front cowl and remove oil filter...you will need either the wrench sold by Hal or I purchased a $3 "cap" from WalMArt that fits on the end of the filter and uses your socket wrench to remove...remove filter allow to drain

5) pop another cool one, fiddle with radio stations/AM/iPod...polish the motorcycle

6) reinstall the filter, drain plug and crush washer (new washer, old washer or no washer...does not seem to matter)

7) pour in 4qts of oil (not even going to begin to state what type) and start up the engine...check for leaks etc.

8) pop another cool one and go relax after a job well done and saving yourself some $$

Seriously...it is a very simple job

I have to say, I like this method better then the books!
 

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One thing not mentioned by other posters: "If you are using dipstick to check oil level":

If you look in the oil filler hole, you will see a partition plate with a semi-circular notch in the center of it. That notch is a Guide Rest for the dipstick. Make sure the dipstick stem is sitting within & against that notch when you slide the dipstick in, maintaining the correct insertion angle - otherwise you'll get an inaccurate oil level reading.

Oil level should always be checked with bike on its centerstand & engine warmed up to normal operating temperature . . . and after engine has been shut off, with a waiting period to allow all oil to seep down into oil pan sump. Some members suggest waiting as much as 30 minutes or so.

When checking oil level, do not screw the dipstick caps into the oil filler hole threads. Just lower the dipstich to the hole. Put in a confirmed accurate 4 Qts oil, then check level with dipstick both ways - with the flat end of dipstack rod both horizontal, then vertical, and see which way give you a more accurate-looking reading on your particular bike up to the upper "full" mark on the dispstick.

In general, I agree with the others - if you put 4 gts new oil along with an oil filter change, you should be Good To Go. DO NOT OVERFILL. If you feel you need to "top off", add oil in very low volume increments, because it doesn't take much additions to raise level on dipstick appreciably.
 

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I replace my oil every 5,000 miles which works out to every 2 months. Also replace the rear drive oil at same time. Only adds minutes to the oil change.
I reuse my crush washers. (no flames please)

I get my Honda synthetic oil and filters from Hal.

No need to remove the lower cowl.

Filter wrench from Hal works great. I tried the end cap wrench from Walmart but it kept slipping.
 

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People talk about the oil measured in quarts. Sometime the oil comes in liters. If you added 4 liters to the oil change you will have way too much oil.

Tom
Never seen oil in the USA that came in Liters, Only Quarts.
And even if you did Find Liters of oil and Put four Liters in your Bike I would have to ask WHY??????
It states that it takes four quarts of Oil , Not liters.
 

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All this is good advice but, I think using a fresh crush washer is a good thing to do! I don't understand why people so concerned with saving 27 cents. The crush washer isn't there so much as a sealer as it is to protect over stressing the threads or some might say 'pulling' the threads. If 27 cents is a big thing, then at least change it every other time you change oil. Honda part #94109-14000
 

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The final drive is easily filled with a pump that screws on the gear oil bottle. These can be found at Walmart in the marine section. The oil is drained by removing a bolt at the bottom of the drive.
 
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