GL1800Riders Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What oil filter/number and where do you buy, other than Honda do you use. I will be putting the 10W40 Mobil 1 fully synthetic, in my trike before taking a trip from Florida to Wing Ding at the end of the month. I have been using Amsoil with the Honda filter, but cost is getting too much. I know there has been a thread about different oils, but don't know much about searching. I am not looking for a discussion on oils, just want to change my own oil, and not pay a fortune, but still want to protect the trike.

THANKS
DAVID
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,036 Posts
Be SURE that the Mobil 1 10w-40 does Not say "energy conserving" in the circle printed on the label.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts
David,

Filter preference is kinda like oil preference, but I've been using Super Tech oil filters since about 2003. My Yamaha RSV, my previous GL1500 trike, and now my GL 1800 trike all use the same oil filter. A good long while ago, I bought several different brands of filters to fit, and autopsied them to see what they looked like inside. There are some good filters out there, and there are some that are not so good, based on what I saw inside. Some of each type cost a little, and some cost a lot. Cost is not necessarily an indicator of quality.

There are only three or four major manufacturers of filters. Each maker makes filters to the specs of their customers, so they make some better than others. The Super Tech filters were well made when compared to others. I also autopsied two or three of them after they had been used for a full oil change. What I saw suited me. The filter was still in very good condition inside and appeared to be doing it's job very well when removed.

Based on my own experience, I continue to use Super Tech Filters. They cost less than $3.00 apiece at Wal Mart. I use the longer filter, filter # ST7317. It's not quite as easy to fit into place, but it's not a problem if you use a channel lock style oil filter wrench for removal. I change my oil in the 1800 at 4000 miles sharp. I do not hesitate to recommend these filters to you. As always, you gotta decide for yourself ... you don't know me from Adam's off ox. But spend three bucks and open one up and take a look for yourself. I know several folks who also use this filter and have heard nothing to cause me to change my mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,847 Posts
Your owners' manual includes specifications for engine lubricants that meet Honda's requirements and oil filter retail stores have cross reference charts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,341 Posts
Pick your poison. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

I'll +1 for the ST 7317, but that is personal. It has been used on the last 3 bikes and plenty of chances to let me down, but hasn't.

These will meet or exeed Honda specs, even though lots arent MC spacific. I really don't care for Purilator MC filters, but like the automotive ones.

The info is older, but relevant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Pick your poison. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

I'll +1 for the ST 7317, but that is personal. It has been used on the last 3 bikes and plenty of chances to let me down, but hasn't.

These will meet or exeed Honda specs, even though lots arent MC spacific. I really don't care for Purilator MC filters, but like the automotive ones.

The info is older, but relevant.
Me 3 on the ST-7317 :yes1:
If you are going to change your oil at short intervals like under the recommended 8000 by Honda stay with Dino, it is cheaper, and wont be a wast of good oil,,,,:shrug: JMO
I use Rotellia T-6 10-40 and the 7317 filter, and change it at 10 to 12 K, and have for the longest. The people of the old school that change their oil at 3 and 4 K are waisting money and oil. The improvement in oil and tolerances in the engines have improved greatly sense our high school days, and are designed for longer intervals. :shrug::shrug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts
George,

I'm workin' on extending my tolerance for miles between oil changes. What's helped about as much as anything (I change oil in three vehicles, one motorcycle, and a couple of riding mowers, etc) is that my old bones don't get up and down from underneath those vehicles like they usta. I live a loooooong way from any place that changes oil, and most of the places I've observed ain't as careful about the procedure as I tend to be. (some might say "anal"!)

Got a new Ford truck that recommends 7000 miles for regular oil changes or 5000 for "severe duty" usage. Yep, 5000 miles is what I'm doing, and that has taken some serious talkin' to myself (as well as the service manager at the dealership where the truck came from). Being old school about oil changes is hard for me to overcome, but I'm gettin' better! Didn't know they made T-6 in 10W-40. I've used a ton of 15W-40 dino Rotella ... still do as matter of fact. I'll hafta look around for some of that T-6 ... don't believe I've ever seen it at my Wal Mart.

But I do believe that changing oil and filter regular is a good practice. Now if I can just adjust my view of what's OK for "regular", maybe I can use less oil and filters! It is extremely dusty here, as well as hot and dry. I read a very compelling article recently that stated today's vehicles are most likely to ingest sand, silica, and other unwanted such stuff through the air intake rather than as result of the combustion process generating nasty stuff that gets in the oil. Mfg tolerances are definitely much tighter these days, and the combustion process is much more tightly controlled. The article said that regular air filter maintenance and replacement is more important than oil filter changes. Wasn't downplaying oil filter changes, but making the point that many stress about oil and oil filters but don't hardly ever look at their air filters!

Which points up my main complaint about the Wings ... I know that the air filter is where it needs to be with respect to the engine layout, and I know we would fuss if it was in a cannister hanging off the outside of the plastic somewhere, but it surely would be nice if the machine was designed to make air filter maintenance much more convenient!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
My bad on the T-6 10-40 it is 5-40 which is OK in your, and my area as for temps. 15-50 would be better but that would be Mobil-1, and almost twice the cost, and real hard to find at times. Used it exclusively when Wally World carried it, but now T-6 in both Trikes. It is in Wally World and is in the Blue jug @ $17. a gal. and agree on it being hard to break old habits, but change is good they tell me,,, :shrug::lol:
 

·
IronMan
Joined
·
17,639 Posts
Guy posted here couple weeks ago about running synthetic oil n just changed filters not the would send out to test n it didnt brake down sounds like a plan to me only run synthetic in mine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts
Thanks for that info, George. Glad sumbody else besides me gets things mixed up at times. Lots of things I like about using synthetics or blends, but they sure cost more. If ya get more, that can be OK, but if, for example, using the dino Rotella 15W-40 and changing a bit more often costs the same as using the higher cost stuff, and both types give good protection under our conditions and expected service demands, I have to wonder.

I've been intending to sit down and just do some projections on current costs for dino and synth using the same filter and figuring costs based on reasonable mileages for changes. Be interesting to see what the costs per mile would be and how they compare. Not sure if this would be a productive way to spend time. Especially if I've got other more pressing things to do, but maybe I'll get to it one of these days. If I do, I'll let you know what I figure.

One thing's for sure, with all our talk and speculation and experience with oil and filters, barring possibly using an energy conserving product, there seems to be little trouble that results. How long has it been since anyone has heard of an engine, especially a Wing engine, that has failed to give service specifically because of an oil or filter related problem (one that can be proved)? There are not many engine problems that occur across the board for any cause, and very few catastrophic failures. And you and I know that there are some that have and are running for many thousands of miles that are ridden by folks who pay scant attention to detail with regard to oil and filter or air filter changes. If it starts, they mostly just ride, and some flog the dog out of 'em. Pretty good motors, eh?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Guy posted here couple weeks ago about running synthetic oil n just changed filters not the would send out to test n it didnt brake down sounds like a plan to me only run synthetic in mine

I did that on a couple of my cars in the past, and worked out very well, and never had a second of any issue with oil, and the first filter change @ 5 or so K wasn't all that dirty. Of course it changes color fairly quick, but not necessarily dirty as in particles, and metal. I cut one open once to just see, and it was just dark oil all through out the filter element.

Thanks for that info, George. Glad sumbody else besides me gets things mixed up at times. Lots of things I like about using synthetics or blends, but they sure cost more. If ya get more, that can be OK, but if, for example, using the dino Rotella 15W-40 and changing a bit more often costs the same as using the higher cost stuff, and both types give good protection under our conditions and expected service demands, I have to wonder.

I've been intending to sit down and just do some projections on current costs for dino and synth using the same filter and figuring costs based on reasonable mileages for changes. Be interesting to see what the costs per mile would be and how they compare. Not sure if this would be a productive way to spend time. Especially if I've got other more pressing things to do, but maybe I'll get to it one of these days. If I do, I'll let you know what I figure.

One thing's for sure, with all our talk and speculation and experience with oil and filters, barring possibly using an energy conserving product, there seems to be little trouble that results. How long has it been since anyone has heard of an engine, especially a Wing engine, that has failed to give service specifically because of an oil or filter related problem (one that can be proved)? There are not many engine problems that occur across the board for any cause, and very few catastrophic failures. And you and I know that there are some that have and are running for many thousands of miles that are ridden by folks who pay scant attention to detail with regard to oil and filter or air filter changes. If it starts, they mostly just ride, and some flog the dog out of 'em. Pretty good motors, eh?
It seems to me ( and we already know I cant remember too much ) that I think the difference between 15-40 Dino in the gal vs 5-40 Syn in gal was only a couple of dollars,,,, Dino was like $17.97 ? and Syn was $19.97 ? Not like comparing the difference between Mobil-1 and Rottila = big difference in cost...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,038 Posts
Best I can tell is a couple or three of Table Spoons... or the rest of the .9 Qt mentioned in the book for the quantity specs,, It is about 3/4 inch longer than the OEM. I just dump in 4 Qts, and check for leaks, then set sail. 6 months or 12,000 miles later I look at it again, when it gets changed,,,:shrug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
I use a Purolater PureOne oil filter part number PL14610.

it is 3.5" high if you want the shorter 3" filter get the PL14612

I peal off the sticker and paint it with black spray paint for headers (high temp) before installation.

I use the PureOne filter because Purolator PureONE Oil Filters are 99.9% Efficient (Based on ISO 4548-12 at 20 microns on PL30001), the don't cost a fortune and my local Advance Auto Parts store carries them.... I get a 10% military discount too!!!!!!




the other advantage is they also fit my Honda Odssey and Accord...... I stock one size of oil fiter at home.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,340 Posts
Best I can tell is a couple or three of Table Spoons... or the rest of the .9 Qt mentioned in the book for the quantity specs,, It is about 3/4 inch longer than the OEM. I just dump in 4 Qts, and check for leaks, then set sail. 6 months or 12,000 miles later I look at it again, when it gets changed,,,:shrug:
I didn't think it would take much more. I probably spill that much. :joke: Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
I bought Mobil 1 5-30

Is that going to be ok?

They didn't have the 5-40
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
I bought Mobil 1 5-30

Is that going to be ok?

They didn't have the 5-40

NO! Bring it back! That is an energy saving oil. You need 10-40, 5-40. It must be 40 or higher. Make sure it doesn't have a star burst symbol on it!!!!! Tom :doorag:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
I returned the Mobil 1 5-30 oil. They do have a Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage for cars with over 75,000 miles.

I bought Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic oil.

I went to two Walmarts and settled for this stuff.

Is this OK?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
I returned the Mobil 1 5-30 oil. They do have a Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage for cars with over 75,000 miles.

I bought Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic oil.

I went to two Walmarts and settled for this stuff.

Is this OK?

Yes this is the oil they have been talking about....Good stuff...I also use it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
I returned the Mobil 1 5-30 oil. They do have a Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage for cars with over 75,000 miles.

I bought Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic oil.

I went to two Walmarts and settled for this stuff.

Is this OK?
You are a wise man!!!!!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top