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Discussion Starter #1
First time readers can stop here...with help, I figured out my issue.


I just installed RaceTech Gold Valves. I have a Shop Manual and the RaceTech instructions, but this is my first time disassembling forks. I initially install RaceTech 1.2 springs as well...more on that in a second.

When I got everything back together, I took it for a ride and I thought I was riding a bike with a solid front fork. I have a bump at the end of my driveway and when I hit it the bike pogo'd back up a few inches. Upon further investigation, I have about 1" of fork travel, even hitting this bump hard. When I rock the bike with front brake applied, all I can get is this 1" of travel and it feels like I've bottomed out, but the bike is sitting higher than stock at rest.

Initially I thought my 1.2 springs were too stiff so I just put the stock springs back in and I still have this same limited travel.

What did I do wrong is my main question. Help, I want to ride this weekend, but I don't think riding it like it is borders on dangerous.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you change fork oil and if so,,, did you work the right side plunger up and down till it filled with oil ??????????
I did change the fork oil, and I did let all the air get out by moving the plunger up and down, but if someone tells me that is the likely target I'll go at that fork again.

When I just changed the springs, it seemed to be moving ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, next question........ did you put proper amount of oil in and not overfill??????????
Service manual says 5" from the top without the springs in, RaceTech says 5.1"...I'm pretty close to one or the other...lol

Unless I misread something...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oops, problem solved.
Seriously, was the fork supposed to be collapsed? I'll have to go check the service manual for that little tidbit and then proceed to hit my head on it about 50 times.

If that's the end of this thread, thanks to all.
 

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Yeppers take out some url. :roll:
 

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Just for what it's worth, you have to be really careful that the GoldValve stays in it's proper position and doesn't flip. This will jam your forks up, too... You can figure out how I know this..

=Dave=
 

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Question for the original poster... I too purchased the race tech 1.2 springs... They give you a long spacer tube that you are supposed to cut to a length (after doing much measuring and math)... Did you just reuse the OEM Honda spacers or did you go the race tech route.??? If you did the cutting, then any suggestions regarding such.??
 

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Question for the original poster... I too purchased the race tech 1.2 springs... They give you a long spacer tube that you are supposed to cut to a length (after doing much measuring and math)... Did you just reuse the OEM Honda spacers or did you go the race tech route.??? If you did the cutting, then any suggestions regarding such.??
This is really tricky to get right, one of the reasons that the Racetech installation is not a matter of simply following clear instructions. It helps a lot to have some suspension knowledge. Or to have the stuff installed by an experienced pro.

Once you've changed spring rates, and stuck a cartridge emulator in the system, it's unlikely the OEM spacers are still right. With 1.0 springs, my recollection is that I used a spacer to get 25mm preload on the left side, measured by sitting the fork cap on top, and measuring the gap. Then did something a little different on the right side so that it also had 25mm preload. But the top out spring on the right side messes preload up a bit, it's not simple. See this:

http://www.racetech.com/html_files/preload.htm

And I did this two years ago, and my memory isn't that great. I also pushed the forks down on a bathroom scale to see if they started to move at about the same force.

I have about 35 mm of total sag, which is maybe a bit low for a touring bike. You'll find lots of recommendations for sag on sport bikes or race bikes, I couldn't find one for a 900 pound tourer :). With 1.2s, I'd think you want a little less preload. Note that you need to check for both sag and bottoming. Bottoming can be fixed either by more preload, or by raising the oil level.

The good part about Racetech is that you can play with the settings. It's also the bad part. A virtue of Traxxion is that it is installed by a pro, and you don't have to deal with stuff. But you get what the pro thinks you should get.

I'd call Racetech, and get their recommendation.
 
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