GL1800Riders Forums banner

21 - 27 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I'm on my 3rd Bushtec since 1989, I like it, a lot. I wish I had the electrical connection air pump installed, rode from Wa State to Knoxville to have it installed, long story short it didn't happen. Mine has been all over the country, on 4 or 5 Iron Butt Saddle Sore 1000s, makes going to Costco more fun too.
My first one did a 2 up saddlesore 1000 too. Great trailers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
The wheels and tires are from a Yakima Rack and Roll trailer. They are cheaper then the bustec set up. You do have to do some mods to the wheel to fit properly, but that is simple to do.
Care to share the tip with the forum members? Installed those tires awhile back (Kenda K273) and don't recall having to do anything.

Bushtec Tires
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Care to share the tip with the forum members? Installed those tires awhile back (Kenda K273) and don't recall having to do anything.

Bushtec Tires
the Yakima Rack and Roll wheel on Amazon mounted with a tire, comes with the cap and has bearing installed is $189, similar set up from Bushtec is about $250 plus shipping.


4 mods need to be done:

#1 - the wheel has the same hub on both sides of the wheel. You have to take a cut off wheel and remove the hub on the inside of the wheel (part that will be towards the trailer) so it won't rub on the air shock and cut the rubber boot. It will give you about an 1" of clearance between the wheel and the shock

#2 - the bearings in the rack and roll trailer won't fit the Bushtec. The axle on the Bushtec is 17mm and takes a 17x40x12mm bearing (6203 bearing) and the rack/roll is 12mm axle that has to be replaced to make it work with Bushtec. The rack/roll bearing is a 12x42x12mm (6004 bearing) I could not find a 17x42x12mm bearing. The gap happens to be 4mm total or approximately 1/8". I got a small sheet of 1/8" brass and cut in on my chop saw into 1/2 wide x 5 inch strips. Then used one to line the inside of the wheel hub. Using a bearing driver i installed the 6203 bearings. You need two shims and two bearings per wheel. I cut and carry extra shims and bearings in my repair kit for the trailer. I carry 4 extra bearings and shims always. When on goes the others usually are not far behind.

#3 - you need new axle nuts. I got a thin 5/8"x11 nylock nut from Fastenal because the rack/roll wheel hub is about an 3/8" wider than the Bushtec and the wheel cover doesn't have as much room under it. So you have to trim about a 1/4" off your axle so everything fits. I put a 5/8" wash between the wheel and the nut to distribute the force of the nut more evenly on the inner race. Be careful not to get too big a washer that it contacts the outer race or your bearing won't spin freely.

#4 - I converted mine to tubeless, added 90 degree ALU stems - I had to drill the whole out to fit the 10 mm stem into the wheel. I do carry one tube just in case, but never have used it.

Now the reason I like shimming the bearing is because if you have ever had a bearing failure two things will most likely happen, first the bearing cover will be knocked off and lost. (haven;t found one yet, and lost three through the years). And second, the bearing will wobble in side the wheel hub. When you replace the bearing it fits too loosely and won't function properly causing you to replace the wheel. With a brass shim in there now you have a sacrificial surface that you can remove and replace and the wheel is not damaged.

Advantages of the rack/roll wheel:
#1 price
#2 the width of the rim is about 1" wider
#3 the extra width will allow you to run a 90/100 x 16 tire commonly used on a lot of Harleys. When you are remote in Alaska, that is one tire that you can find if you had to have one.
#4 tubeless makes roadside flat repairs easy with a sticky string if you are not carrying a spare wheel/tire.

From the Alaska trip, below you can see the lip that I had to cut back to modify hub on the inside of the wheel ( you are looking at the outside of the wheel, but you can see the other side of the hub is not as wide compared to this side), this happens to be a 90/100 x 16 Dunlop front tire for a Harley mounted up. You can see the worn out tires in the background - they only had 2500 miles on them. Later I discovered the premature wear was from a tow-in that was 1/2" - way too much. The Campground owner had a compressor so I was coming back from using that to bead the tire and inflate it.

366066
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
Nice, info and much appreciated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
#2 - the bearings in the rack and roll trailer won't fit the Bushtec. The axle on the Bushtec is 17mm and takes a 17x40x12mm bearing (6203 bearing) and the rack/roll is 12mm axle that has to be replaced to make it work with Bushtec. The rack/roll bearing is a 12x42x12mm (6004 bearing) I could not find a 17x42x12mm bearing. The gap happens to be 4mm total or approximately 1/8". I got a small sheet of 1/8" brass and cut in on my chop saw into 1/2 wide x 5 inch strips. Then used one to line the inside of the wheel hub. Using a bearing driver i installed the 6203 bearings. You need two shims and two bearings per wheel. I cut and carry extra shims and bearings in my repair kit for the trailer. I carry 4 extra bearings and shims always. When on goes the others usually are not far behind.
Did you damage your original Bushtec rims? Why not just install the Yakima Rack and Roll trailer tire on the Bushtec rim?
Did you exam the bearings and see the model numbers? I ask because everything I've read is different from what you've posted.
According to the information I've written in my files:
Bushtec does use a 6203 bearing, but there are (2) versions of this bearing. Bushtec uses the one with a 5/8" or 15.875 mm bore diameter.
The Yakima Rack and Roll trailer uses 6302-RS bearings.
Bore: 15mm
OD: 42
Width: 13mm

Yakima Rack and Roll Trailer 5 Spoke Wheel

What size Bearings do the Wheels Use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Did you damage your original Bushtec rims? Why not just install the Yakima Rack and Roll trailer tire on the Bushtec rim?
Did you exam the bearings and see the model numbers? I ask because everything I've read is different from what you've posted.
According to the information I've written in my files:
Bushtec does use a 6203 bearing, but there are (2) versions of this bearing. Bushtec uses the one with a 5/8" or 15.875 mm bore diameter.
The Yakima Rack and Roll trailer uses 6302-RS bearings.
Bore: 15mm
OD: 42
Width: 13mm

Yakima Rack and Roll Trailer 5 Spoke Wheel

What size Bearings do the Wheels Use?
I used a 6004 bearing for the bushtec and a 1/8 brass shim between the bearing outer race and the hub. That way I got the 5/8" inner race diameter so it would fit the bushtec axle. Now if I ever have a bearing failerure the brass shim will get damaged, not the hub, and I can replace the shim with the bearing and be set to go again. I do carry a set a bearings and extra shims with me just in case.

The switch to the Yakima wheels was due to hub on the bushtec wheel was damaged when the bearings failed. Essentially the bearing outer race would spin in the wheel because the it was so loose. A mechanic friend of mine said ot check the spacer between teh bearings, as he had one that was a little too short and had bearing failure to it causing side loads on teh bearing. Single race bearings don't do well with that like these.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
My 2001 Bushtec Quantum trailer has served us very quite well for 20 years. Hauls so smoothly that you forget it is there. It is the only way to go when 2-up touring. I had it repainted last year from Hot Rod Yellow to Ardent Red to match the new Wing.

The only problem I have experienced is the shock's top mount band bracket cracked. I had both sides repaired/modified at my local welder. It is likely better than new (apparently the Bushtec frame has a lifetime warranty but I live in Canada 2,500 miles from their factory). It is likely a very rare problem, but if buying used, inspect the mount.

Repaired Mount with added gusset (also repainted frame)
Welded Shock Mount.jpg


Color Matched to new Wing
Colour Match 5.JPG


Broken Shock Mount(when 15 years old & many miles)
Broken Shock Mount.jpg
 
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
Top