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Discussion Starter #1
Ran across an article in the Touring News magazine of the Gold Wing Touring Association.

New dry cell type of battery just like the optima but in cycle size. It's called an "ODYSSEY" Made by Hawker Energy.

Don't know where else to get one except from:

Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts
415 Court Street, Clay Center, Kansas 67432
785-632-3450

They run about $90.00 and weigh about 11 Lbs. because its dry technology you don't have to pay hazardous material charges for UPS.

It has 2 year 100 % replacement then another 3 years on the sliding scale. Thats a total of 5 years. Has 440 cranking amps at 80 degrees. fahrenheit.

California CHP are running these batteries in all their bikes because they have a 50 minute window of use with the bike shut off instead of the 30 minute window they had before, and still start their bikes.

I do not get anything from the company and I don't sell them.

I just don't want to get stuck like I did once in the middle of nowhere because the battery just up and died. I'm going to order one first thing next week. My OEM battery is over 2 years old and is cranking a little bit slower than when it was new.

I just wanted to pass on what I thought was an excellant product with proven technology of starved electrolyte construction, just like the Optima batteries.

No acid spills, no hydrogen gas fumes out of the vent, and much longer life.

Besides the Idea of not having to wory about my Wings battery for at least 5 years is money well spent.

The company says that they expect the battery to have an 8 year service life with normal usage. That means not draining the battery dead all the time, You can draw it down 70% and recharge it 400 times.

I hope that this comment has been helpful to my brother and sister Wingers.

Buck Yellow Wing


:lol: 8) :lol: :goflag: :yw1:
 

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Buck Yellow,
Not to be offensive, but I'd suggest a bit more independent thought and less dependency on ad hype or testimonials. Odyssey? New battery? Not hardly! And it's not dry, either. It's an AGM design better suited in my opinion for uninterruptable power supplies, electric wheelchairs, or trolling motors, but not engine starting. And your typical 1.5 amp motorcycle battery maintainer can't fully charge it. Their PC680 for GL1500 tested poorly compared to other brands which cost considerably less. A 5 year warranty becomes irrelevant when you've accidentally left your lights on for 15 minutes on a Sunday afternoon, and now your bike won't start.

Plus, the numbers you provided are hot cranking amps. That's how trolling motor batteries are rated. Try this on for size.
OEM GL1800 battery - 19 amp-hour, 270CCA
Odyssey PC545 for GL1800 - 12 amp-hour, 185CCA, 18 minutes reserve capacity. That's from Odyssey's own website; check it out for yourself.

And the claim of being able to draw it down 70% and recharge 400 times? Think about that. That might have value if you're running a total loss system like on a wheelchair or trolling motor, but it's completely meaningless regarding a vehicle with a charging system. And what if your charging system quits? You pull the headlamp fuse and try to make it home. But you're more likely to make it home with a 19 amp-hour battery than one rated at only 12 amp-hours. What you need most importantly is CCA and amp-hours, in that order.

Okay, loyal Odyssey owners. Let the testimonials begin!

Stu
 

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Good info.......Thanks stu......... :yes2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It smarts when that ruler hits your knuckles. Thanks for the update !

Buck Yellow Wing :oops: 8) :oops: :goflag: :yw1:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It smarts when that ruler hits your knuckles. Thanks for the update !

Buck Yellow Wing :oops: 8) :oops: :goflag: :yw1:
 

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Stu sure sets the record straight now doesn't he! :D

Very good information!



Stu,

If your still watching this thread....................
You had mentioned in WW that the Deka battery out performed the others pretty much hands down.
I purchased one of these for my 1800 but was somewhat dismayed at the mounting setup. You have to install a spacer between the battery posts and the battery cables that reduces the overall contact area by over 1/3...............not good during engine cranking or reverse operation.
Any comment on the setup of this spacer and mounting?
Kind of looks to me that they made a quick (cheap ) fix to make this battery work on then 1800.

Thanks...................
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It smarts when that ruler hits your knuckles. Thanks for the update !

Buck Yellow Wing :oops: 8) :oops: :goflag: :yw1:
 

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Buck Yellow Wing said:
It smarts when that ruler hits your knuckles. Thanks for the update !

Buck Yellow Wing :oops: 8) :oops: :goflag: :yw1:
Buck,
:eek:ops2: I apologize for sounding so stern. There's far too much misinformation floating around regarding the use of that type battery, and far too many who, unfortunately, believe every word of it. I haven't read the GWTA article, but from what you posted, I suspect the editor merely published Odyssey's ad copy without performing any meaningful in-house testing. BTW, regarding CHP's bikes? I don't suppose that article mentioned the fact that those bikes use an integrated dual battery setup? I may be wrong, but I believe one is for starting and running the bike, and the other powers all the cop stuff. Many cycle mags publish barely-modified press releases and have the balls to refer to them as "tech articles." They're nothing more than publicity.

Brian,
That battery fits a bunch of different bikes, including the Harley Davidson models it was originally developed for. Depending on clearance issues and cable configuration, some bikes need the washers; others don't. The washers provide more than adequate surface contact area. There's no issue of voltage or power loss there. Enjoy.

Stu
 

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Thanks, Stu, for the update. And, also, thanks Buck for the pass-along that started this. It gives us some information we can update and check on for ourselves, letting us make our own informed descisions. Am going to replace my battery this spring - bacause of age, not failure - now I got to decided which way to jump.

Anywhay, Thanks, All.
 
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Just an Observation.

Technology today marches on at an incredible pace, but the latest and greatest can also run you over. Especially when it is trumpeted by the media types who usually don't have a clue what they are talking about. They get paid by the volume of print they generate...not by its accuracy.

The latest "gee whiz" stuff may be fine, but odds are it needs a lot more work and refinement to be practical, and I have suckered by this kind of hype as much as anybody else. But I'm gettin' smarter and more selective as to what I buy into.

Old Chinese Proverb: "If it looks too good to be true, it probably is."

Actually, I don't think the Chinese had anything to do with that idea. :lol:
 

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Stu_O said:
[quote="Buck Yellow Wing":1tz2zp80]It smarts when that ruler hits your knuckles. Thanks for the update !

Buck Yellow Wing :oops: 8) :oops: :goflag: :yw1:
Buck,
snip>
Brian,
That battery fits a bunch of different bikes, including the Harley Davidson models it was originally developed for. Depending on clearance issues and cable configuration, some bikes need the washers; others don't. The washers provide more than adequate surface contact area. There's no issue of voltage or power loss there. Enjoy.

Stu[/quote:1tz2zp80]

I absolutely agree with Stu. I bought in on a pair of these 3 years ago for my Ultra Classics. At that time they were cutting edge stuff - and $170 each! In additon, the posts were backwards requiring criss-crossing the cables.
They lasted 3 years exactly. The upside is that you don't recharge them - just let them sit for an hour if you run one down. And the second thing is that there's no acid to boil over or spill on all that high-dollar chrome; that's why I went to them in the first place.
But now that sealed batteries are pretty much commonplace that's what I'm using.
 

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Jim King said:
...The upside is that you don't recharge them - just let them sit for an hour if you run one down.
I'm afraid that's where our opinions part company.

Stu
 

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There are some other interesting things to ponder about this battery. First of all, since it is a GRT battery, it needs a slightly higher voltage for the gas recombination process to occur. The cycle life specs on the web site for Odyssey uses a 14.7 recharge voltage, so I assume this is the voltage needed for proper charging. The GL1800 charging system seems to stay around 14.40 volts, at least on my bike anyway. This could be a bit low for GRT batteries. This subject came up on the COG list several years back and some folks claimed you needed to replace the voltage regulator and increase the voltage level of the charging system if you used a GRT battery or the battery wouldn’t charge properly. However, numerous folks installed them on their bikes and did not have any problems with them. I don’t know if the .3 volts would be enough to make a big difference or not but it might mean the battery would not re-charge quite to it’s full potential (which would further reduce the CCA).

As Stu pointed out, the CCA on this battery is not nearly as good at the OEM battery. But there are also some other points to ponder. First, is the self discharge rate and the ability of the battery to hold a charge longer. This could be an advantage for someone who doesn’t ride as often and doesn’t keep the bike on a trickle charger or battery monitor during times of non-use. If you believe the product literature, the battery not only holds a charge longer, but can be recharged much faster as well. This could be important for some owners who typically only do short rides and don’t ride the bike as often.

Another point to pay attention to is vibration. The Yuasa battery made for the Concours suffered many failures of internal welds between the cells cracking and causing premature failures. Some new Yuasa batteries where going bad in as little as a month due to these weld failures. Yuasa claimed it was a bad lot of batteries and that they purged the stocks, but as much as 10 years later many new Yuasa batteries in the Concours are still suffering the same problem. I got a letter from an owner just two days ago that had this happen. Personally, I had three of them fail on my own bike in less than a year. The battery would still hold and accept a charge, but could not supply enough current for the starter due to the crack(s) in the inter-cell connections.

While the GL1800 does not have the high frequency vibration that the Concours does, and this has not been an issue on the Yuasa batteries on the GL1800, it is worth noting. One of the claims of this Odyssey battery is increase vibration resistance, which I assume is due to the glass mat in-between the plates. It is also worth noting that the Yuasa battery that fails so often on the Concours, is not the same model as the one installed in the Wing, so again, the vibration problem is probably not an issue here.

While this battery does not have the CCA of the OEM, it may have some other advantages in storage life and vibration resistance. Although, in the end, I think you would be dollars ahead investing in, and using, a battery monitor which will greatly extend the service life you will get out of your batteries. When my OEM battery in the GL1800 dies, I will most likely put in another OEM battery, despite the bad taste Yuasa left in my mouth with the Concours. I hate to mess with success. However, if I still owned a Concours, or another bike that had vibration issues, I might look a little harder at this Odyssey battery.
 

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I for one plan to go with DEKA if and when the OEM dies in my '01. So far it is doing great even with all the extra demmand at Idle with things like the Hack, Heated gear, HotGrips & other stuff including the heater in the sidecar. The 1800 seems to have a great alternator output at idle.

I expect that around 5 years or so I may need to replace the battery then I'll be looking around for a stocking dealer. As of now the DEKA is short on local dealers in my area, perhaps due to a low margin. If it is common for HD's I'll check with them on our next visit with the boys Sporty.

Stu how long are you seeing the OEM batts lasting? So far I have seldom had a battery die or become marginal in less than 5 years and would expect at least that much with the current OEM's, not counting SUDDEN DEATH due to Plate Shorts that is. :shock:

Jerry
 

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Odyssey - In REAL LIFE I had ZERO problems over 4 years of u

Stu's stats and opinions are good. Except that they don't match my real life usage over the last four years where I had ZERO problems.

Four years ago I bought an Odyssey battery for my '87 1200cc GoldWing Aspencade. A year and a half later I bought a 2000 1500cc GoldWing SE and moved the Odyssey battery from my '87 Wing to my new Wing. Four months later my 2000 SE was totalled when I was rammed from behind by a Jeep. I took the Odyssey battery out of my totalled 2000 SE and moved it back into my '87 Wing. A few months later I bought another 2000 SE and moved the battery from my '87 into my newest 2000 SE where it stayed until last month (February 2004).

During that time I had ZERO problems with my Odyssey battery. There were several times during those four years where I was gone two or three weeks. And each time I was able to start my Wing when I got back without it being on a charger.

Stu can bash Odyssey batteries all he wants. All I know is that I never had a problem in four years with mine. And when it finally did need to be replaced after four years I bought another Odyssey battery.

Note: I commute 52 miles round trip almost year round on my Wing in the Seattle area. The only time I don't commute is when I'm not working (vacation, sick time, etc.) and when there is ice or snow on the ground. I average around 27,000 per year.
 

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Jerry Roebke said:
I for one plan to go with DEKA if and when the OEM dies in my '01. So far it is doing great even with all the extra demmand at Idle with things like the Hack, Heated gear, HotGrips & other stuff including the heater in the sidecar. The 1800 seems to have a great alternator output at idle.
You're right, Jerry. The 1800 has plenty of output at idle - that's why your battery is still going strong even with all that gear.

I expect that around 5 years or so I may need to replace the battery then I'll be looking around for a stocking dealer. As of now the DEKA is short on local dealers in my area, perhaps due to a low margin. If it is common for HD's I'll check with them on our next visit with the boys Sporty.
www.batterymart.com

Stu how long are you seeing the OEM batts lasting? So far I have seldom had a battery die or become marginal in less than 5 years and would expect at least that much with the current OEM's, not counting SUDDEN DEATH due to Plate Shorts that is.
Jerry
The problem of cracked internal components is/was isolated to flooded type batteries; no "sudden death" issues with Yuasa sealed types. Yes, some of us have had poor luck with the OEM batteries. That's inevitable given the fact that a)some initial installations were done improperly, and b)we all have different ideas about what battery maintenance is required to accomodate our different riding, storage, and accessory habits. How long will it last? That's more a function of the external factors I just mentioned rather than the type or brand of the battery. And that goes for the Odyssey as well.

When I have knowledge of the subject under discussion, I try to help others avoid making decisions in a fact-free environment. That doesn't constitute "bashing," IMHO. Odyssey are good batteries when they match the application. It's my opinion that the 1800's OEM battery is too small, capacity wise, for the 1800's needs. So how could I recommend a battery that has even less reserve capacity - regardless of the price? If Odyssey could come up with a battery of the correct size to fit the battery box, one that had at least as much CCA and amp-hours as the OEM design, and one that could be properly charged without the need for a higher output automotive style charger, I'd jump on their band wagon pronto.

One person here has reported a good Odyssey experience after four years; that's purely anecdotal and proof of exactly nothing, as many others report the same or better luck with their OEM battery. Others have reported problems to me after less than one year, just as with all other battery brands. Again, it all depends on usage and maintenance. But I see no reason to eliminate one's margin to absorb screw-ups by installing a battery with less reserve capacity than OEM specs. You wouldn't do that in your car (I hope), so why do it in your bike? Ah, it's the magic of marketing.
 

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The product reports in GWTA's Touring News are nothing but glorified advertising, they trade a nice puff piece for advertising revenue.

As an example, Touring News gave glowing recommendations to the Green Light Trigger and the Fitz Fuel Catalyst, both items have been tested by independent sources such as Motorcycle Consumer News and Wing World and have been found totally ineffective.
 
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