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What is the procedure to disable, or, to modify the plunger in the 1800 anti-dive system?
Ouestion about anti-dive
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Question about anti-dive
I would like information about both. Then I can decide the best route to take
I would like information about both. Then I can decide the best route to take
For the try before you buy approach (the temporary approach), I modified a black rubber washer from a garden hose and placed between the upper and lower half of the anti-dive unit. The black rubber washer acted as a spacer and it also kept road grime out of the internals. I was not real happy with my spacer and would use a better gasket if I was making a permanent shim. My shim rested on the internal snap ring in the lower half. The upper half of the anti-dive unit contains brake fluid. The lower half contains fork oil. You do not need to worry about any fluids leaking out if you separate the upper half from the lower half of the anti-dive unit. All the fluids are sealed back with o-rings. There is nothing between the two halves on the inside except air.
To permanently deactivate the anti-dive valve, I have heard that folks just cut off the end of the plunger sticking out of the upper half with a cutoff wheel on a dremel tool. Others are saying to stack three M4 washers on the end of the plunger assy. I would be careful not to over heat the plunger while grinding or cutting the tip off the activation plunger.
Study Fred Harmon's photos of the anti-dive unit to see "how deep it is" before you jump in.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/antidive
To permanently deactivate the anti-dive valve, I have heard that folks just cut off the end of the plunger sticking out of the upper half with a cutoff wheel on a dremel tool. Others are saying to stack three M4 washers on the end of the plunger assy. I would be careful not to over heat the plunger while grinding or cutting the tip off the activation plunger.
Study Fred Harmon's photos of the anti-dive unit to see "how deep it is" before you jump in.
http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/antidive
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Question about anti-dive
Thanks Blind Yack, I'll try the temporary fix first.
Thanks Blind Yack, I'll try the temporary fix first.
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An alternative would be to change the banjo bolt on top of it to a normal bolt. That would close off the brake system from the actuator completely. 
Just curious--how does disabiling the anti-dive affect the handling? Seems to me the only time that mine comes in to play is when I am braking hard for whatever reason. Or do I not have enought miles yet on my Wing (8,000) for it to be an issue yet? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Here is a link to where modifying the anti dive was discussed before.
http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/view ... highlight=
Also if you want to completely disable the anti dive, here is what I did prior to Traxxion
To completely disable the Anti dive, here is what I did. Get a piece of 1" PVC pipe. (gray stuff) Cut it to exactly .280 inch long, ensuring both ends are square, no angle cuts here. I cut it with a hack saw then ground it to length with a belt sander. Use a dremmel tool to slightly enlarge the inside diameter so that it sits down over the ridge on the plunger unit. Get two bolts slightly longer than the stock ones and screw the plunger back on the anti-dive unit with the spacer inbetween. Done. The outside diameter is just right so that the screws will go straight down and align with the holes. As a bonus the pipe is gray and will blend nicely into the fork and the unit is sealed so no dirt will get in.
http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/view ... highlight=
Also if you want to completely disable the anti dive, here is what I did prior to Traxxion
To completely disable the Anti dive, here is what I did. Get a piece of 1" PVC pipe. (gray stuff) Cut it to exactly .280 inch long, ensuring both ends are square, no angle cuts here. I cut it with a hack saw then ground it to length with a belt sander. Use a dremmel tool to slightly enlarge the inside diameter so that it sits down over the ridge on the plunger unit. Get two bolts slightly longer than the stock ones and screw the plunger back on the anti-dive unit with the spacer inbetween. Done. The outside diameter is just right so that the screws will go straight down and align with the holes. As a bonus the pipe is gray and will blend nicely into the fork and the unit is sealed so no dirt will get in.
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In looking at the link for modifying the anti-dive. i see two different
methods suggested by both Fred H , and Cal-D One is to seperate the two halves and place a .030" shim between them . The other is to loosen the nut that holds the bleeder screw and place the shim under there. I know that the two halves of the antidive can be seperated without loosing oil/fluid.
My question is can the top nut/bleeder holder be loosened the one turn required for a shim without loosing fluid and having to bleed the system .
Also, can i assume (sometimes dangerous :shock: ) that placing a shim thicker than the recommended .030" between the two haves of the antidive control the amount that you disable it?
Planning on a 2500 mile trip in the next couple days and don't want to have this thing stick on me half way through and blow out a fork seal on me .
thanks
Joe.
methods suggested by both Fred H , and Cal-D One is to seperate the two halves and place a .030" shim between them . The other is to loosen the nut that holds the bleeder screw and place the shim under there. I know that the two halves of the antidive can be seperated without loosing oil/fluid.
My question is can the top nut/bleeder holder be loosened the one turn required for a shim without loosing fluid and having to bleed the system .
Also, can i assume (sometimes dangerous :shock: ) that placing a shim thicker than the recommended .030" between the two haves of the antidive control the amount that you disable it?
Planning on a 2500 mile trip in the next couple days and don't want to have this thing stick on me half way through and blow out a fork seal on me .
thanks
Joe.
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Joe
The shim under the bleeder nut will allow the anti dive plunger to retract fully off the anti dive valve removing the pre-load Honda decided should be there. It gives the bike a smoother ride and still allows for normal operation of the Anti-dive. You can use a U shaped shim between .030 and .035, just back off the top nut (bleeder holder) two turns and slip it in and re-tighen the nut. No bleeding required. That assumes your anti-dive is working correctly and not sticking.
A shim between the two halves will limit the amount the anti-dive plunger depresses the valve thereby reducing the function of the anti-dive. The shim under the bleeder nut is the better way.
A second option, as I discribed above is to completely disable the anti-dive, I did not like doing that with OEM springs because it allowed the bike to dive too much, bottoming out when braking hard. Once the Traxxion springs were installed I completely disabled the anti-dive and really liked how the bike rode and handled. I have since upgraded to the full deal with Traxxion.
The shim under the bleeder nut will allow the anti dive plunger to retract fully off the anti dive valve removing the pre-load Honda decided should be there. It gives the bike a smoother ride and still allows for normal operation of the Anti-dive. You can use a U shaped shim between .030 and .035, just back off the top nut (bleeder holder) two turns and slip it in and re-tighen the nut. No bleeding required. That assumes your anti-dive is working correctly and not sticking.
A shim between the two halves will limit the amount the anti-dive plunger depresses the valve thereby reducing the function of the anti-dive. The shim under the bleeder nut is the better way.
A second option, as I discribed above is to completely disable the anti-dive, I did not like doing that with OEM springs because it allowed the bike to dive too much, bottoming out when braking hard. Once the Traxxion springs were installed I completely disabled the anti-dive and really liked how the bike rode and handled. I have since upgraded to the full deal with Traxxion.
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Thanks Cal-D
I wasn't sure if loosening up the nut where the bleeder valve was screwed in would allow fluid to escape or not .
I may also make up the grey pipe spacer and keep it in my tool bag, along a couple bolts. might be a good emergency repair on the road , if the anti-dive starts acting up on a trip .
Joe.
I wasn't sure if loosening up the nut where the bleeder valve was screwed in would allow fluid to escape or not .
I may also make up the grey pipe spacer and keep it in my tool bag, along a couple bolts. might be a good emergency repair on the road , if the anti-dive starts acting up on a trip .
Joe.
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Any application of the brakes applies the anti-dive. Not just hard braking.Allen H. said:
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Three M4 washers between the ainti dive halves, fit better than the SAE washer sizes.tom cohoon said:
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What is recommended if your ADV is sticking? (as a temporary fix before rebuilding)Cal-D said:
Speaking of rebuilding the ADV Where the heck can I find the friggin O-Rings for the rebuild??? That's the only thing holding me up at this pont, and I've scoured the internet and can't find them. (except in bulk)http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=68036
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If you know the ize try mcmastercarr.comSoloquest said:
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Soloquest
If the unit is sticking I have taken the plunger out of the plunger assembly, cleaned it and lubed with silicone greese and re-assembled. Never had one leak yet.
Personnely I would upgrade to a set of fork springs from Traxxion and then completely disable the anti-dive and forget about it, you'll never look back.
If the unit is sticking I have taken the plunger out of the plunger assembly, cleaned it and lubed with silicone greese and re-assembled. Never had one leak yet.
Personnely I would upgrade to a set of fork springs from Traxxion and then completely disable the anti-dive and forget about it, you'll never look back.
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Cal-D, did you replace the O-Rings or just re-use the ones on there? I thought the swollen O-Rings was the reason it was sticking in the first place.
I already bought Progressive springs.... but I'm going to look into the Traxion and maybe return the Progressives. How much of a difference is there between the Progressive and Traxion springs?
Thanks!
I already bought Progressive springs.... but I'm going to look into the Traxion and maybe return the Progressives. How much of a difference is there between the Progressive and Traxion springs?
Thanks!
I may be ever so slightly hijacking this tread...I just wanted to make sure that folks understood that the Traxxion front fork system upgrade is NOT only the springs but also the replacement of the guts of the OEM fork components with AK-20 Axxion Cartridges...
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