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I just changed my oil, only my second time. Not very mechanical, but improving. When I drained the oil last time, I transfered the waste oil to an empty milk jug, it all fit. This time the oil ran over. Did I somehow overfill my oil last time? I remember adding oil the day after I changed my oil, because I checked it on the center stand and the dipstick showed low. Any thoughts? I just checked my manual and it said 3.9 qts after oil and filter change. I know I put in a full 4 last time then some more the next day. Why would the stick read low? Did I do any harm running it with extra oil (it still ran ok)?

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and have a Happy New Year. If my oil would have been changed and my brass was a little bigger, I could have ridden Christmas day. Saw a Harley cruise by (34 degrees). This is the first Christmas without snow that I can remember since I was just a tot. U.P. Michigan, usually we have a couple of feet by now.

Bill
 

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This is a common problem with inaccurate or inconsistent dipstick readings. Most of us just put in a gallon and be done with it.
 

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I put in a gallon of Amsoil and change it whenever the moon is full between 4-6K. And never check the level in between.
 

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Sounds like you might of overfilled it last time. Using the dipstick to check oil is a whole ceremony. I just put in a gallon at change time, and never have to add between changes.
The biggest problem with overfilling an engine is the oil level may be high enough in the crankcase to get aerated by moving parts splashing the oil around. Then the oil gets foamy and doesn't lubricate or transfer heat as well.
I seriously doubt if you hurt anything.
 

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BillsGW said:
I remember adding oil the day after I changed my oil, because I checked it on the center stand and the dipstick showed low.
That was your mistake. The dipstick reads flakey on this bike half the time, and it is hard to get an accurate measurement. Poor in 3.9 qts (or 4 if you aren't so picky) and just ride it. If you poor in the proper amount, you shouldn't need to even check the level.

I think one of the reasons the dipstick reads flakey is because the amount of oil that stays in the transmission varies. My suspicion is that sometimes more stays trapped in the transmission making it appear to be low.
 

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The dip stick reads accurate if you have the engine up to full operationg temp and run it while on the center stand and then allow it to rest about 10 or more minutes after shut down. If you run the engine on the side stand and then turn it off before setting on center stand, the reading will be low. If you check it immediately after shutting down it will read a little low.

prs
 

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laen said:
I put in a gallon of Amsoil and change it whenever the moon is full between 4-6K. And never check the level in between.
I do the same thing with the same oil....all is well.
 

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Bill,
I'm sure the incorrect oil level reading is because of all the iron ore deposits in the U.P., eh!
Since they are to the west of you, you need to have your bike pointing due south in order to get an accurate reading.

Or, has been suggested, and is practiced by us trolls, just dump in 4 quarts and ride.

:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all. Community, this board is about community. I come here with confidence. Oil changed, 4 qts installed, new filter. Later in week will change FD oil (just read some old posts) just to be safe. It was fun working on the bike today. A bit of spring fever (few months to go yet, but what the hey!). Heated grips ordered today along with power plate and a couple other things. Hope to be out VERY early this spring, right after salt rained off.

Happy New Year! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Bill
 

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Oil overfill.....

It is way too easy to over fill with oil. One of my oil changes, I just kept putting in a new quart until I got a good reading on the dip stick. So, I had the oil in and everything back together and started picking up the tools. I discovered 5 empties. What?!?! 5 empty quarts! How the #(*&$ did I do that? I checked the stick again (after it had been sitting not running for several minutes) and the stick was way beyond full. Boy, did I have fun trying to remove a quart and only a quart without making a mess. That was when I found out that you need to let the engine sit off at least 10 minutes (30 is better) on center stand before you can check the oil. You need to crank up during the fill to fill up the oil filter but you have to let it sit for a reading. Now, I sit out 4 quarts and put it all in and check the level after everything is put away.
 

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The oil dipstick will never give an acurate reading unless you install a NEW CRUSH WASHER, next time you chance your oil Install one and you will see!!!


Matt(Ashland,MA) :shock:
 

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BillsGW said:
I just changed my oil, only my second time.
new owner here too ...
while you're at it, check the rear differential.

I'm a big believer in draining / changing oil after a few hours on new parts.
I did my engine at about 800 miles.

The big eye opener was the rear differential.
I changed that at about 900 miles.

I pulled the top cover off and nothing came out (book says "a little" is supposed to if it's correctly topped off).
Then pulled the drain plug.
The oil that came out was very dark and although I did not measure it I doubt if more than a couple of ounces came out.
After letting it drain for a very long time I cleaned the cap (it has a magnetic plug) and refilled.

My gut feeling is either the shop or the factory did not top off the differential ... I'm not sure who's job it is.

worth checking

Dennis
 

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I believe that the "dark stuff" is a compound...like lapping compound that is put in at the factory to help the gears wear in properly.

I changed mine and found the same thing.....don't know if it was low though...didn't seem to be. I put in Mobil 1 synthetic inthe FD.

When I change the engine oil I just drain it for a long time and then put in four quarts, and a new filter and ride. I check it in a few thousand miles to see what color it is, and how it smells, and then ride some more.
Most wings don't use oil.
 

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steve s said:
I believe that the "dark stuff" is a compound...
Steve,
thanks... that makes sense.
glad to know something was not disintegrating in there.

Dennis
 

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wingwing said:
steve s said:
I believe that the "dark stuff" is a compound...
Steve,
thanks... that makes sense.
glad to know something was not disintegrating in there.

Dennis
Actually the initial rear gear oil is a "moly" (molybdenum) based causing it to be a very dark grey. It does sound as though it was low.
 

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The final drive change should involve about 4 oz gear oil. The additive is NOT an abrasive compound at all; its powdered moly, a high pressure lubricant.

prs
 

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Pigeon Roost said:
The final drive change should involve about 4 oz gear oil. The additive is NOT an abrasive compound at all; its powdered moly, a high pressure lubricant.prs
So, did I screw up by draining the "expense" stuff?

I purchased the "Pro Honda Shaft Drive Oil" ...
It is the regular looking (yellowish - green) oil of the same type that I've drained from automobile differentials.

thanks,
Dennis
 

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You change synthetic at 4-6k??? You're wasting your money. That's way to soon.


laen said:
I put in a gallon of Amsoil and change it whenever the moon is full between 4-6K. And never check the level in between.
 

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I have found that it is not too soon, as the shifting gets stiff and cluncky at about that milage. Actually sooner with dino oil. I just put in my first batch of syn.....but I'm guessing about 4k is all I'll let it go. I don't like the stiff shifter (on my bike) and the clunky transmission! 8)
 
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