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So ... I was taking my 2018 Wing (non tour) to the dealer to have some "stuff" installed. And, decided on a Saturday to change out the oil since I have 4000+ miles on the rig.

Now, I've had a 2001 GW and have a 2015 F6B ... so, I know about changing oil in these bikes.

Well ... the oil drain bolt on the 2018 must have been installed by a gorilla. I couldn't get it to budge. The oil filter was the same. And, I must admit that the 17 mm bolt on previous models that was straight down is much more accessible than the 12 mm bolt hidden on this bike. I can't believe that Honda has had more than a decade to design this bike and came up with this oil change configuration.

I'm having the dealership loosen the oil drain bolt and filter so I can do an oil change. %^#$!!&%
 

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So ... I was taking my 2018 Wing (non tour) to the dealer to have some "stuff" installed. And, decided on a Saturday to change out the oil since I have 4000+ miles on the rig.

Now, I've had a 2001 GW and have a 2015 F6B ... so, I know about changing oil in these bikes.

Well ... the oil drain bolt on the 2018 must have been installed by a gorilla. I couldn't get it to budge. The oil filter was the same. And, I must admit that the 17 mm bolt on previous models that was straight down is much more accessible than the 12 mm bolt hidden on this bike. I can't believe that Honda has had more than a decade to design this bike and came up with this oil change configuration.

I'm having the dealership loosen the oil drain bolt and filter so I can do an oil change. %^#$!!&%
Had the exact same experience on another bike. This is a good wrench for a good price for the drain bolt:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And you need to get one of these for the filter:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/15010-MCE-H51?ref=02667fee1e964f0f084275a0c0af801a4016fa2c
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Had the exact same experience on another bike. This is a good wrench for a good price for the drain bolt:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And you need to get one of these for the filter:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/15010-MCE-H51?ref=02667fee1e964f0f084275a0c0af801a4016fa2c
I have all the necessary pieces to remove the drain bolt and filter ... they are just on too **** tight! After the dealer loosens them, I will tighten them as I always have.

BTW ... why would Honda abandon the 17 mm drain bolt that is dead straight down for this occluded 12 mm bolt placement? I don't understand.
 

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....

Well ... the oil drain bolt on the 2018 must have been installed by a gorilla. I couldn't get it to budge. The oil filter was the same. And, I must admit that the 17 mm bolt on previous models that was straight down is much more accessible than the 12 mm bolt hidden on this bike. I can't believe that Honda has had more than a decade to design this bike and came up with this oil change configuration. ..
Well, it's Japan... you're close... not gorilla, it was GODZILLA!... :grin2:

They do zip them on... I recall my 2008 was tight the first time I pulled it. Now, my CB1100 drain bolt was barely on... took no effort to un-tighten it... I was surprised... but its oil filter was so tight I didn't think I was going to be able to get it off... thought for sure the filter would crush under the force I ultimately had to apply, but it didn't.

I suspect the conversation went like this:

Where is the oil drain bolt, I don't see it in the schematics... ?

The what?

Drain bolt?

Did I leave that out?.... oh, just put it anywhere, somewhere difficult so they will take the bike to the dealer for service....

How difficult?

I don't know, ask the air filter guys, they know exactly how to make things difficult on a bike!
 

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I have all the necessary pieces to remove the drain bolt and filter ... they are just on too **** tight! After the dealer loosens them, I will tighten them as I always have.

BTW ... why would Honda abandon the 17 mm drain bolt that is dead straight down for this occluded 12 mm bolt placement? I don't understand.
I had one the other day where the filter was so tight that it bent Honda's oil filter socket. I still have not had time to get the filter out of the socket.
 

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If you have the same tools as the dealer, just go ahead and loosen them.
Maybe use a breaker bar to loosen it. I am sure that is what the dealer will use.
NO and NO! The original post tells us of experience on his part. If his good sense has him concerned about the bolts stripping the engine case threads, then LET A HONDA DEALER chance wrecking it and then cover the repairs. If it is out of warranty, then drop back 10 and punt.
Whoever removes them, make sure you have a snug 6 point socket placed squarely upon the fasteners.

prs
 

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I had one the other day where the filter was so tight that it bent Honda's oil filter socket. I still have not had time to get the filter out of the socket.
I ran into that with the original filter removal. The Honda specified filter cap socket flexed and stuck tight. They may have neglected to oil the "O" ring gasket or ignored their own torque spec (which I think is too high anyway). I called the stuck combo a rather distasteful name regarding the questionable nature of its father. That foul word reminded me of the proper tool for the seperation. I reached down into the tool box to retrieve my 24" ******* Mill File, then edgewise I rapped the rim of the cap socket to send it flying across the shop floor.

But, IIRC, the flock of drain bolts was properly tightened. The fill cap for the final drive was too tight, but steady firm pressure finally persuaded it without damage.

prs
 

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Big Bertha has installed the spin on filters at Honda for as long as I can remember.

Always dreaded the first oil change. I’ve had to chisel a couple off where the filters would collapse while trying to remove!
 

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Well, it's Japan... you're close... not gorilla, it was GODZILLA!... :grin2:

They do zip them on... I recall my 2008 was tight the first time I pulled it. Now, my CB1100 drain bolt was barely on... took no effort to un-tighten it... I was surprised... but its oil filter was so tight I didn't think I was going to be able to get it off... thought for sure the filter would crush under the force I ultimately had to apply, but it didn't.

I suspect the conversation went like this:

Where is the oil drain bolt, I don't see it in the schematics... ?

The what?

Drain bolt?

Did I leave that out?.... oh, just put it anywhere, somewhere difficult so they will take the bike to the dealer for service....

How difficult?

I don't know, ask the air filter guys, they know exactly how to make things difficult on a bike!
Try changing the oil on an Interceptor. The lower bodywork on both sides and the front has to come off. Then the lower radiator stay has to be loosened so you can pull the radiator out of the way in order to snake the filter between the front cylinder bank headers. Still I miss doing it since it was so good when I was done. The DCT Wing oil change is a walk in the park by comparison even with the clutch filter thrown into the mix.:coffee1:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
NO and NO! The original post tells us of experience on his part. If his good sense has him concerned about the bolts stripping the engine case threads, then LET A HONDA DEALER chance wrecking it and then cover the repairs. If it is out of warranty, then drop back 10 and punt.
Whoever removes them, make sure you have a snug 6 point socket placed squarely upon the fasteners.

prs
Exactly correct m'friend. I don't have Snap On sockets, just the run of the mill Harbor Freight stuff. The skinny 12 mm drain bolt doesn't have very deep shoulders either. I figured I'd round them off if i continued screwing with it.

I'm pretty strong, too .... I put nearly all my strength on it while holding the socket tight. No dice. Yep, let the dealer loosen it up. I did ask them how much for an oil change ... I was told "north of $125". ... just loosen the bolt and filter for me. :)
 

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Exactly correct m'friend. I don't have Snap On sockets, just the run of the mill Harbor Freight stuff. The skinny 12 mm drain bolt doesn't have very deep shoulders either. I figured I'd round them off if i continued screwing with it.

I'm pretty strong, too .... I put nearly all my strength on it while holding the socket tight. No dice. Yep, let the dealer loosen it up. I did ask them how much for an oil change ... I was told "north of $125". ... just loosen the bolt and filter for me. :)

Get a 6 point deep socket. Long extension and have at it.
Do you have access to an impact gun?
Maybe a long 6 point closed end wrench and smack the end of the wrench with a hammer.:smile2:
 

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That foul word reminded me of the proper tool for the seperation. I reached down into the tool box to retrieve my 24" ******* Mill File, then edgewise I rapped the rim of the cap socket to send it flying across the shop floor.
I'll see if I can get my "high quality Honda tool," to take a solo flight too :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Get a 6 point deep socket. Long extension and have at it.
Do you have access to an impact gun?
Maybe a long 6 point closed end wrench and smack the end of the wrench with a hammer.:smile2:
Getting at this bolt is less EZ than previous GW drain bolts ... which pointed straight down. This is hidden in a cavity and is at a right angle to the bottom of the bike. Poor access to say the least to get much torque on the 12 mm bolt.

I do not have a center stand either ... one is being hooked up now, which may make access a bit EZr, but I doubt much. Yes, I have an impact gun and I'm not about to use it on this bolt ... even if I could access it.

I'll let the dealership loosen it ... again, if they screw it up, it's their issue not mine. And, yes ... I know how to get a tight bolt off. I've pulled lug nut studs clean off several times with an extension added to a lug wrench. Not a good idea either.
 
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Aloha Bagger,

Maybe lay bike on which ever side that gives you a better advantage to access the drain bolt.
Lay over like you would to install a rear tire and see if you can maybe get a impact gun on it or even just have better leverage with a breaker bar and 6 point socket.
If possible, have an assistant helping you by holding the socket securely on while you pry on breaker bar.

I don't see the dealer taking the hit if something goes wrong with removal due to it being over tightened prior to them loosening it,
unless they were the last ones to have done an oil change on your bike.
Then again if you can convince them that it's your first oil change and it came from the factory like that, they may.
Hopefully they are a stand up Honda dealer and decides to make it right.

Good luck and hope you're successful!!!
 
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Aloha Bagger,

Maybe lay bike on which ever side that gives you a better advantage to access the drain bolt.
Lay over like you would to install a rear tire and see if you can maybe get a impact gun on it or even just have better leverage with a breaker bar and 6 point socket.
If possible, have an assistant helping you by holding the socket securely on while you pry on breaker bar.

I don't see the dealer taking the hit if something goes wrong with removal due to it being over tightened prior to them loosening it,
unless they were the last ones to have done an oil change on your bike.
Then again if you can convince them that it's your first oil change and it came from the factory like that, they may.
Hopefully they are a stand up Honda dealer and decides to make it right.

Good luck and hope you're successful!!!
Aloha! Hawaii, eh? Many years ago, we would fly to Maui and stay at Kapalua before there was anything from Lahina to Kapalua ... now, not so much. Beautiful islands.

Anyway, yes ... your suggestion is a good one, but I don't have an assistant, and I don't feel comfy laying my bike over on it's side. BTW, I just removed my Dark Side CT from my F6B and installed the 200 series MC tire from the 2018+ GW. And, I like it better for my purposes. Had around 12K on the B'stone Driveguard run flat ... good tire, too.

Anyway, the dealership knows me. They know this is the 1st oil change. Only 4K miles on the bike. I'm sure it'll be fine. But, thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Maybe they put loctite on from the factory. I can't see any reason a bolt with a 12mm head could possibly be very tight. The threads would strip before 30ft/lb. I've found no bolts that won't loosen easily with an impact gun, or if no space a longer ratchet. Of course use good sockets. I've got 25" long ratchets, and those get the job done on a 12mm bolt every time.
Oil filters though can be a problem. Either way, good luck.
 

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Question: Is it easier to loosen the bolt with the engine hot or cold? I thought that I have read not to remove spark plugs on a warm engine. So, try to loosen it while cold?
 

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I had a very difficult time for the first Oil Change... 4400 miles. Have Snap On and Craftsman tools that were 6 point. Put the ratchet on and could not get it to budge. Placed the floor jack on the bottom of the ratchet and put a little pressure on the wrench to hold it in place in a straight manor. It was tightened to 60 Ft pounds. I torqued it to specs. The oil Filter was the same and I used the same technique to get it off using the floor jack to hold it in place. The next oil change will not be so difficult. I don't have a bike stand to be able to get underneath enough for any kind of pressure to prevent slipping or stripping.
Good to know I wasn't the only one. THANKS
 
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