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I was on a hill and decided to use the parking brake to adjust my helmet. I pulled the lever all the way up to lock and the bike just started rolling down the hill. I quickly braked. any ideas as to what is going on.
 

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I followed the shop manual on my last adjustment, and it was perfect for quite awhile after that. However, I have come to the conclusion that I will follow that procedure at every oil change from now on.
 
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Yep...needs adjustment...Had to have mine adjusted twice before it held properly...under warranty..dealer did it ...works great now...
 

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https://gl1800riders.com/forums/5427853-post4.html

Parking brake adjustment is a 2 stage procedure.

Adjustment at top for cable length and to get correct number of 'clicks' on set mechanism. Standard number is 3 to 5, in the SM.
And second, at the bottom, to set the gap/pressure for the pads when the cable is moving the brake arm on caliper the correct distance.


To check cable adjustment, pull handle to get ONE click.
Measure length between brake arm and cable stay at the park brake caliper.
Standard length is 42.0 - 44.0 mm (1.65 - 1.73 in)

If it needs adjusting, it's the adjuster behind the left engine cover.


Once the cable is adjusted the caliper can be adjusted.

With the rear wheel off the ground, unlock the parking brake.

Then pull the lever til the first click/notch.
Turn wheel by hand and turn adjusting bolt til there is slight drag.
Hold bolt and tighten lock nut (17.2Nm. 13 lbf-ft)

Unlock brake and be sure it turns freely.
Pull the parking brake and count clicks until it locks. (standard is 3-5)

If it is out of standard, re-adjust.
 

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A rather simple concept of "minor" and "major" adjustments that basically get you to the same place; more or less (pun intended).

Farmguy is close; or maybe I am just close. If you want my take on it, say so and I will post a diatribe. ;-)

prs
 

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A rather simple concept of "minor" and "major" adjustments that basically get you to the same place; more or less (pun intended).

Farmguy is close; or maybe I am just close. If you want my take on it, say so and I will post a diatribe. ;-)

prs
prs, both adjustments impact the way the park brake works, but they adjust different parts of the system.
I believe cable adjustment is to deal with cable and pull handle ratchet setting -- to get it so when activated the arm on caliper is in the desired position.

Adjustment on the caliper is to get the correct pad pressure -- when the arm is in the attended position. Caliper position doesn't move the arm. It changes pad push relative to the arm location.



The images in posts #3 and #10 show both adjustments.

Cable adjustment should be verified correct before doing caliper adjustment.
 

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Farmguy, I re-read your first post and the second sentence sort of threw me off base, but thinking it through we are on same page -- different way of saying.

The tendency for the brake to get out of adjustment early a few times may be due to cable stretch or "relaxing". Of course, driving away with the brake set will thin the pads quickly, as will getting the pads in contact with the handle released.

prs
 
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