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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Made a post yesterday concerning F1 code 19. Ordered the replacement part. In the process of removing the old assembly.

I cannot locate where it plugs in. The wire harness from the timing cover leads into never never land. The post I read in the how to segment indicated the plug is accessible beneath the upper black cover. Not on my 07 non ABS. I can follow the wiring harness into the abyss.

Anyone with an idea where the plug is located and how to access it would be appreciated. I am kind of frustrated right now. Also how do those plastic clips come off on that black cowling? Thanks guys. I would really appreciate whatever input you have.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Went back out to the shed after a break and tried to locate the connector again, no luck as it simply is not behind the lower cowl above the timing cover. I followed the harness all the way into the abyss. My bike is non ABS so I thought it would be easy as per how to on the forum. I guess the next step is remove the top shelter and see if I can locate it there. Tis a pain for sure. Oh well air filter probably can use changing anyhow.

I wonder if cutting and soldering the two wires in the harness would do it. Don't see why not.

Anyone with suggestions please chime in. I am at a dead end here. Where oh where is that connector? LOL

Fred
 

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GoldwingGreg won't like this at all. But, I would seriously consider cutting and splicing. I would solder, then put some liquid heatshrink, followed by real heatshrink. Should last forever.
 

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GoldwingGreg won't like this at all. But, I would seriously consider cutting and splicing. I would solder, then put some liquid heatshrink, followed by real heatshrink. Should last forever.
Yup ... I'm a "no hack jack." But stay tuned ... thankfully some members are, and it makes for good reading later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
GoldwingGreg won't like this at all. But, I would seriously consider cutting and splicing. I would solder, then put some liquid heatshrink, followed by real heatshrink. Should last forever.
Yep that plug connector has to be under the airbox, which means the tank and airbox have to be removed. I think I shall take your suggestion and splice and solder. I have soldered resistors in the seat circuit and they have lasted 10 years now. Thanks for the input.

Fred
 

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Yep that plug connector has to be under the airbox, which means the tank and airbox have to be removed. I think I shall take your suggestion and splice and solder. I have soldered resistors in the seat circuit and they have lasted 10 years now. Thanks for the input.

Fred

The only problem is that if you splice and solder, and the problem isn't the sensor but is instead the connector, you won't have solved anything. I'd prefer to see you get to the connector so you can make sure it isn't a connection problem there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This morning I attempted to start the Wing by cranking on the throttle slightly as I hit the starter button. Fired right up with no code, and started a couple times after that. Go figure. I have a Western tour planned for next month so I will replace the part, because I am sure it will fail permanently before long. It is on order.

Thanks to Fred H and Goldwing Greg for taking the time to help me out and respond to my PM's. Thanks to everyone that responded. This is a great forum. Safe riding to you all.

Fred
 

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This morning I attempted to start the Wing by cranking on the throttle slightly as I hit the starter button. Fired right up with no code, and started a couple times after that. Go figure. I have a Western tour planned for next month so I will replace the part, because I am sure it will fail permanently before long. It is on order.

Thanks to Fred H and Goldwing Greg for taking the time to help me out and respond to my PM's. Thanks to everyone that responded. This is a great forum. Safe riding to you all.

Fred

An intermittent problem like this could mean it has a problem at the connector. Sometimes the sensors will also go bad after the bike warms up and then the coil inside the sensor opens, but I would definitely want to check any and all connectors between the sensor and ECM for any resistance or corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The only problem is that if you splice and solder, and the problem isn't the sensor but is instead the connector, you won't have solved anything. I'd prefer to see you get to the connector so you can make sure it isn't a connection problem there.
Yeah, I hear you Fred. I don't even see enough room to weave that connector thru. It is tight in there. We will see. I do have plenty of time to get it done. Thanks again.

Fred
 

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Come on fredfirefighter. Ya know ya wanna splice it. Don't let them talk you out of it. You can trust me ... Do it .... Do it ... Do it ... >:) >:) >:)

If the pulse generator is the problem, you won't have to did into that d### airbox. :laugh:
 

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I had this exact same problem three years ago. I removed the front crankcase cover just to check the wiring cable for the crank sensor, to see if anything had come disconnected. In the process, when removing the front cover, I felt a "tug" on the sensor wire when it ran out of slack. Seeing that I didn't have access to the connector from the front, and with another gentle tug to confirm it was still connected, I put it all back together. Just for grins, I turned the key on and it started! Has not failed to start since. So, I'm curious if maybe my tugging on the wire a couple times may have had a "corrective" effect on the connector way up in yonder from which I cannot easily get to? By the way, I tried to reuse the original front cover gasket, but it started to leak a bit. I'd recommend you have a new gasket on hand if you remove the cover again.
 

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If it were me, I would add connectors the new sensor and existing harness, instead of soldering the leads. I would go here http://www.cycleterminal.com/jst-jwpf.html and get the 2 pin version. It will make your life easier if you ever need to get back in there.

But that is just me.
 

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I had this exact same problem three years ago. I removed the front crankcase cover just to check the wiring cable for the crank sensor, to see if anything had come disconnected. In the process, when removing the front cover, I felt a "tug" on the sensor wire when it ran out of slack. Seeing that I didn't have access to the connector from the front, and with another gentle tug to confirm it was still connected, I put it all back together. Just for grins, I turned the key on and it started! Has not failed to start since. So, I'm curious if maybe my tugging on the wire a couple times may have had a "corrective" effect on the connector way up in yonder from which I cannot easily get to? By the way, I tried to reuse the original front cover gasket, but it started to leak a bit. I'd recommend you have a new gasket on hand if you remove the cover again.

This would be a very good indication you had/have a connection problem at the connector under the airbox.
 

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I vote for splice with solder and heat shrink.
My reasoning is that Honda uses decent quality harnesses and connectors.
When disconnecting electrical connectors for service work, I have found all Goldwing connectors to be very tight and well protected.
I think the only way a connector could come loose is by improper tightening by an owner or service tech.
In terms of contaminants entering a connector, unless the bike was doused with a fire hose or exposed to an F5 tornado, I don't think that would be a problem.
You know what they say.
Start with the simplest solution first.
If the connector is a bear to access, fageddaboutit for now.
Just cut and splice in the open under the front cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the input guys. I have made the decision that if I cannot access the connector from the front I will cut and splice and solder(right now it makes no sense to me to tear down half the bike to access the connector,) The easy way first. If that does not solve the problem I will do it the hard way. LOL

Fred
 

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Thanks for all the input guys. I have made the decision that if I cannot access the connector from the front I will cut and splice and solder(right now it makes no sense to me to tear down half the bike to access the connector,) The easy way first. If that does not solve the problem I will do it the hard way. LOL

Fred
Once the upper center cowl is removed, the instructions you asked for in a PM would maybe take me less the 15mins to remove and maybe 30mins too reinstall. Why not just try ??? I don't even think it is possible to mess anything up !!! Once the coil pack is loose, wrap the entire assembly in a towel, and lay it between the back part of the rear fender and the lower center cowl, or push it to the right and tie it over there.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update: Waiting on parts to arrive. Should be shipped tomorrow. All bolts on the front cover loosened easily. Decided to wait until parts arrive to remove the cover. Plenty of slack in the wiring harness to cut, solder and shrink wrap, which is the method I have decided on. If that does not work(confident it will) I'll do it the hard way and take the fuel tank and air box off to access that connector. Simply is not accessible from the front and I have a non ABS.

I have about 5 weeks before departure to Rockies Gold so plenty of time to repair and test run. Yeah, I know the down sides, but anything can go wrong on these complicated machines(water pump, fuel pump and on and on, coolant leak under the fuel tank) All you can do is reasonable maintenance and ride.

Fred
 

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Update: Waiting on parts to arrive. Should be shipped tomorrow. All bolts on the front cover loosened easily. Decided to wait until parts arrive to remove the cover. Plenty of slack in the wiring harness to cut, solder and shrink wrap, which is the method I have decided on. If that does not work(confident it will) I'll do it the hard way and take the fuel tank and air box off to access that connector. Simply is not accessible from the front and I have a non ABS.

I have about 5 weeks before departure to Rockies Gold so plenty of time to repair and test run. Yeah, I know the down sides, but anything can go wrong on these complicated machines(water pump, fuel pump and on and on, coolant leak under the fuel tank) All you can do is reasonable maintenance and ride.

Fred
Not to throw fuel on the fire, but there’s always the possibility of it’s connector having oxidation/corrosion and being the culprit instead of the sensor itself being bad.
 

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So Honda made something easier on my non ABS 2012?

Here is a pic of where my connector is.

The part numbers are the same for "all" 2007 and 2012. Shouldn't his be at the same place as mine since the lead won't be long enough to go any farther?
 

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