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$285 vs $39 at Amazon
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, and maybe not even related, but Airtex pumps for Studebakers, and many other classic cars, have been around for decades. Until 10-15 years ago, they were a suitable replacement, but then their quality plummeted. The ones currently available often knock upon installation, and fail within days or weeks. Upon inspection, they appear poorly assembled, and with inferior parts. Many classic car owners have tried an Airtex, but few have tried a second one.
 

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, and maybe not even related, but Airtex pumps for Studebakers, and many other classic cars, have been around for decades. Until 10-15 years ago, they were a suitable replacement, but then their quality plummeted. The ones currently available often knock upon installation, and fail within days or weeks. Upon inspection, they appear poorly assembled, and with inferior parts. Many classic car owners have tried an Airtex, but few have tried a second one.
Isn’t that just the way things are going. Anything worth owning is super high priced, and any bargains aren’t seeming to be good anymore. maybe Cycledude’s used idea is the best, cost wise. Fingers crossed.
 

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, and maybe not even related, but Airtex pumps for Studebakers, and many other classic cars, have been around for decades.
Here is my experiance. A customer came in and said he'd replaced his 5th gens fuel pump with an aftermarket one too. I don't recall what his Wing was in for, but his cowl was off, and I do recall doing a fuel pressure test. His fuel pressure was higher then the 50psi spec. I'm not sure if that is good or bad, and further diagnosis would need done to determine if the pump over pumping, or the fuel pressure regulator was not able to releive the pressure enough, or maybe the return line was partially plugged.
 

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Isn’t that just the way things are going. Anything worth owning is super high priced, and any bargains aren’t seeming to be good anymore. maybe Cycledude’s used idea is the best, cost wise. Fingers crossed.
In 2013-2014, I converted two Studebakers to 1990s vintage GM TBI (with Mopar flavored ESC), and later ran into reliability problems with several electronic components sold across the counter. I eventually replaced all those components with junk yard parts which, thankfully, are still available. No reliability problems since. I am growing more and more skeptical or cheaper, offshore sourced parts. Though I understand quality varies, i.e. DELCO parts made offshore is still held to same quality standards as yesterdecade in USA. But I still prefer NOS or used.
 
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GL1800 Doctor
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I understand your concern, but considering the Honda pump is made in Japan, can it really be that much better? I know of a few of these pumps being used in wings and I haven’t heard of any issues with them. Even if it doesn’t last as long as the factory pump, it also cost only a 1/10th of the price. It’s a coin toss with any repair part these days, a lot of OEM stuff is made in China as well.
 

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In 2013-2014, I converted two Studebakers to 1990s vintage GM TBI (with Mopar flavored ESC), and later ran into reliability problems with several electronic components sold across the counter. I eventually replaced all those components with junk yard parts which, thankfully, are still available. No reliability problems since. I am growing more and more skeptical or cheaper, offshore sourced parts. Though I understand quality varies, i.e. DELCO parts made offshore is still held to same quality standards as yesterdecade in USA. But I still prefer NOS or used.
I can't speak for all OEM stuff, but when it comes to the car world, and certaily the GW world I live in, I would take used OEM, or NOS over almost any aftermarket part.

There are exceptions. For example, I recently had a customer here and we were talking about Jeeps. He was saying that according to the forums all driver electric window motors fail (I have no idea on what generation, years, or models). He listed several other parts that have failed on his, and said everyone report the same ... as in all of them. When parts fail outside of a standard bell curve, that's a case where it's time to look elsewhere for another way to fix an issue, or continue to replace with OEM part, and do it over, and over again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·

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I’m paying $148 delivered for the used pump with 70,000 miles with a 30 day warranty.
Brandnew Honda pump from Partzilla is $382.20. Have you actually seen it somewhere for $285 or was that price just a typing error ?
I'm not sure what happened to Partzilla. A few years ago, for consumers they were known as the cheapest place to get parts. The packaging was also known as the worst ever ... m/c batteries shipped in the same box with light bulbs ... that kind of stuff. Now they're one of the most expensive places to order parts from.
 

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I'm not sure what happened to Partzilla. A few years ago, for consumers they were known as the cheapest place to get parts. The packaging was also known as the worst ever ... m/c batteries shipped in the same box with light bulbs ... that kind of stuff. Now they're one of the most expensive places to order parts from.
Greed
 

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Yeah ... I'm not really sure what happened to them reguarding their pricing structure. I used to have a commercial account with them, but there packaging was so bad I didn't have time to deal with all the issues that came with it all. After several complaints about their poor packaging, damaged parts, and/or lost parts from holes getting puntured from the inside out in there boxes, doing all the followup became to time consuming I began to look elsewhere. At one point they wanted my assistance in helping them file a claim against UPS. My responce was seriously ... have you seen these pictures ... are you really trying to blame this on the shipper ??? None of my other packages look like yours.
 

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I'm not sure what happened to Partzilla. A few years ago, for consumers they were known as the cheapest place to get parts. The packaging was also known as the worst ever ... m/c batteries shipped in the same box with light bulbs ... that kind of stuff. Now they're one of the most expensive places to order parts from.
I had never heard of Mr. Cycles. Just checked and order an order I had with Partzilla to compare prices, Mr. Cycles was significantly cheaper (like 30% less - had a lot of parts that I am getting for major maintenance this winter). Cancelled Partzilla nd re-ordered with Mr. Cycles.
 

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I had never heard of Mr. Cycles. Just checked and order an order I had with Partzilla to compare prices, Mr. Cycles was significantly cheaper (like 30% less - had a lot of parts that I am getting for major maintenance this winter). Cancelled Partzilla nd re-ordered with Mr. Cycles.
Mr Cycles?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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2002 wing with 570,000 miles.
Road it about 30 miles and it was running perfect, stopped for sandwich at gas station, when I started the bike to leave it started missing and rattling so I shut it off, thought about it for minute then restarted it, missing even worse until it quit running and wouldn’t restart.
It was to noisy at the gas station to tell for sure if the fuel pump ran when the key was turned on but pretty sure I could hear a relay under the seat clicking.
Called one of my brothers to tow it home, unloaded it in nice quiet garage, sure enough turn on the key but fuel pump doesn’t run. Decided to wait until the next morning, next morning I took the seat off and turned on the key, fuel pump ran just like normal and no clicking relay, pressed the start button and it ran perfect ! Put 5 miles on it running perfect but I was afraid to take it anywhere so it was just sitting in the garage for a few weeks.
Sunday I took it for a ride running perfect, stopped a few different places and it was running-starting perfect, but when I pulled up to a stop sign by funeral home it started missing and shut off, it would restart but missing bad, eventually it would not restart, tried switching relays but that didn’t help. Called brother to tow it home again.
Using a test light there seems to be power at both plugs for the fuel pump but the pump doesn’t run so this morning I ordered a used fuel pump from a 2003 wing with 70,000 miles, supposed to come with 30 day warranty.
How difficult is it to remove a GL1800 fuel pump ? Any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated !
Many years ago I did remove and reinstall a fuel pump in a Chevrolet pickup that seemed very similar and that turned out well.
Had the same indications on my 2015 40th Anniversay GL, ABS,Nav. Got stranded in Flagstaff AZ for week waiting for parts.
Fuel pump and fuelfliter are one unit under the seat and can only be replaced together from Honda. Parts cost are around $400 and labor 100-200 depending on hourly rates.
At the time I also replaced all 6 plugs, because, like you, from the dying sound of the motor, seemingly self destructing, I wanted to eliminate that potential cause.
After that repair I continued my trip for the next 4000 miles without even a hickup of the engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The used eBay fuel pump arrived today, thanks to the very helpful you tube video I didn’t have much trouble removing-installing it. Re installing the lock ring was kind of difficult probably because mine was sort of rusty and even after cleaning some of the rust off and oiling it I couldn’t get all the lock tabs to engage by myself so I called one of my brothers to help, with two people it went fairly well. After it was installed we put some gas in and turned on the key, the fuel pump ran like it was supposed to and started , I will hopefully get to take it for a ride tomorrow morning, hopefully everything continues to go well !
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Rode about three miles with wing running perfect then suddenly it almost stalled while going up a big hill, but then it started running perfectly again. About 6 miles later it suddenly quit running, it would fire sometimes but would not restart so I called my brother to tow it home again. I do have a spare ECM so will probably try that next. The fuel pump doesn’t run.
 

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Rode about three miles with wing running perfect then suddenly it almost stalled while going up a big hill, but then it started running perfectly again. About 6 miles later it suddenly quit running, it would fire sometimes but would not restart so I called my brother to tow it home again. I do have a spare ECM so will probably try that next. The fuel pump doesn’t run.
Is the pump relay energizing when the FI light comes on with the key? If so, it’s probably not the ECM, check for power on the relay(brown wire and the black/yellow wire) and at the pump connector at key turn on. There is a connector between the relay and the pump connector(C43) that can go bad or get corrosion in it.

 

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You didn't say, did you test the old pump after you removed it by applying 12 volts too it to see if it would run? It appears that your current symptoms are the very similar to the previous symptoms is why I ask.
 
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