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Discussion Starter #1
I read the manual... 0-25 settings and how it works, how much you weight and the type of ride you want... I don't know enough to decide that, so... How do you know WHEN it's adjusted correctly? What to look for, that tells you "THAT'S IT" :shrug::shrug:
Thanks
GL1000-2006
 

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go for a ride on 0,then ride the same road on 25,then play with it to find your spot in between!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pre-Load Adjustments

Thanks Yellow Wolf, I'll try it, now I got something to go on, thanks.
 

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Dave it does not. It just needs to be in neutral.
 

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Mine is on 4 when I ride by myself and 15 when my wife rides with me. Really makes a difference two up.
 

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8 alone(210 pounds) and 14 two up....works for me:thumbup:
 

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18 alone (238lbs) and 25 with the wife and I wish it went up to about 35. :thumbup:

....you may want to reword this or pray your wife never reads this board. LOL
 

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18 alone (238lbs) and 25 with the wife and I wish it went up to about 35. :thumbup:

It may be possible to grant that wish. Have you ever checked to see where it starts to "load up?" Set it at zero then hit the up button. Listen to the motor and note when it changes tone as if it's under load. If it "loads up" at anything higher than 2 or 3 then you can make an adjustment which will make it stiffer (well, we sure hope your wife doesn't read this board!).

Though I do not know where you can garner the information on how to do it, it involves getting more oil into the pump. Not a hard job, takes about 40 minutes or so.....

Somebody else will supply a link. Unfortunately, I did not document the procedure when I did it and can't find it in my favorites.
 

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15 alone (190lbs) 23 with s/o..... The wife notices a rougher ride below the 23 mark....(Don't go there she's not heavy).

I also don't know if this has anything to do with it but the dunlops (factory tires) have 7,000 miles on them....and still looking close to new....no cupping or uneven wear. :nojoke:

Just my input....:thumbup:

Mark
 

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My preload was showing 0 but was actually at 11. Buckskin reworked the cylinder and now 0 is actually 0. Much wider ranger range of adjustment now. Look up buckskin or pm me for his information.
Kurt:thumbup:
 

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6 most of the time but 22 when in the twistys or loaded with camping gear.
 

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Thanks to those of you who also put weight as to give us a place to compare.

230# @ setting 10

380# @ setting 20 ....loaded for trip 22 to 23

THUNDERWING
 

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If you wish you had a 35 setting, then you need an aftermarket suspension system.

Progressive, Raceworks, Traxxion Dynamics are the 3 key players.

I am 180 lbs and I ride at 5
Mom is about the same and we ride at 10
I pull a heavy trailer so that and riding 2-up = 15

Competitions - 15 to 20

I have no need to go beyond 20, ever.

LOVE my traxxion system!
 

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I wanted to get 1.25" of loaded sag with 240 Lbs on the bike. Could not do it with the stock setup so I ran 25 all the time.

I have the Traxxion shock and 1200 Lb spring now, and get about 1.25" at zero, so that where I run it unless I have a passenger or load. I have to run it all the way up to 25 with a full "overload," but am still able to get to 1.25" with a load far exceeding the weight rating of the bike
 

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General rule of thumb, 8-14 solo, 12-18 double. changed my rear spring to 1100# spring, but have to raise the pressure to about 14# to eliminate the pulsing harmonic created on slab breaks. Just feeling the thump thump gets annoying, so choice the slightly harder ride. Do have upgraded springs in front too. Think i need a lighter oil in front shocks, used 15# or 20# from max in them.
 

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BOTTOM LINE:

The higher the shock setting, the stiffer the ride. The lower the shock setting, the softer the ride. Use a higher setting for a heavily loaded bike and a lower setting for a lightly loaded bike.

If you set it too low with a heavy load, then the shock may bottom out on big bumps. Since the shock will have a significant amount of travel used just by sitting still, there is not much left to absorb bumps. That is bad because it is painful once you hit the stops and it could damage your bike. It also means your bike sits lower than it should and you reduce your ability to lean the bike over in a turn without scrapping your pegs, engine guards, muffler, etc.

If you set it too high with a light load, then small bumps will not be absorbed and passed through to your butt, making the ride uncomfortable. The advantage is that your lean angle limits are increased so those who like to tear though the twisties (count me in that crowd) sometimes use higher settings when riding those types of roads, accepting the reduced level ride comfort. Since the ride is stiff, there is less compliance in the suspension system so the rear tire can actually bounce up and lose contact with the road surface on a big bump. I recommend that you keep that in mind.

If your rear shock adjuster works like Waldo described, you should visit the the web site of our resident Gold Wing maintainence guru, Fred Harmon. This link http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/rearshock has some pictures at the bottom that shows the rear shock hydralic drive unit that is frequently under filled from the factory. He sells a 16 disk DVD maintenance video collection for $99.95 at http://www.angelridevideos.com that gives you the down low hot skinny on everything relating to maintenance of your Gold Wing. It includes a section specifically for fixing this rear shock adjuster factory deficiency. I bought his DVD set and in my opinion it is worth every cent (and NO, I don't get anything from this recommendation).

When I first tested my '05 shock adjustment, it was not applying any pressure until the gage read about 6. It now starts adding pressure right off 0. Since I am a heavy weight (305#), it now gives me plenty of range, up to the point of being too stiff over a setting of 20, even with a full load (me, wife, trunk and saddle bags filled to capacity, and pulling a trailer).

Good Luck.:thumbup:
 

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The pre-load adjustment doesn't make the ride "stiff" or "soft". It doesn't have anything to do with dampening, it only changes ride height. The purpose of the pre-load adjustment is to center the suspension in the middle of the 4 inches of travel provided. When the pre-load is set too low, your bike will bottom out. If it's set too high, it could top out. :thumbup:
 

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Preload and suspension sag

Remember pre-load and dampening are two different things. Pre-loading your suspension determines not only load carrying abilities but to a greater degree handling. On a bike as heavy as a wing this is always a compomise between the two. A good way to determine your starting piont is to use suspension sag. With full fuel and no cargo set your preload to 0. With the bike on it wheels, no stands, and no weight on the bike measure the distance between a point on the bike behind the rear pegs and the ground. Now sit on the bike
and remeasure. Between one and two inches of sag is a good range so set your preload accordingly. Now as you load the bike adjust the per-load to stay within this sag range. As you do this a few times it will become easier because you will know how the bike should feel and handle under all conditions. I personaly like a sporty feel, so I keep my suspension sag at one inch. I hope this helps.
 
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