F.Y.I. Theres a new in the box rear shock for sale that just popped up on the board. I don't what kinda shape yours is in but thought I would mention it to you since your already gonna be in there.
I really do not think it makes a tinker's dam of difference, but by convention the tighter coils ride downward; is that what you mean?
Stu Oltman came-up with a method of doing the switch-out that is pretty easy. WIth the bike suported, the top pin is removed and then the bottom pin. Then you pul the shock upward until the bottom shock mount hole aligns with the top mount. Put the pin back through teh top mount and you have the shock fixed right there on top of the bike where you can work on it without even fooling with the pump/drive motor assembly. Makes quick work of it. Always be very careful when working with such powerful springs, they can be dangerous!
When I went to put the spring on I found out the spring will only go on one way. If you try to put it on up side down the spring won't go over the lower spring seat. I took my spring and adjuster off to do it because I had to fill the adjuster with oil.
When I started my adjuster didn't moan till I hit #9, now it moans all the way from 0 to 25. There wasn't very much oil in the adjuster when I dumped it out. Thanks for the help and thanks for the tip on the shock for sale. I bought a complete set up from a trike conversion off of Ebay for $45.00 so I have a spare.
Pap, what kind of fluid did you put in the pump and did you just fill it or take it apart as on fred's page, and how did you run it to bleed it while bike is apart? I've got mine apart now waitng on parts this week
did You install the progressive shock (460) or stock?
Bleeding the system may not be the appropriate term; although it tends to bleed upon you a bit. A search will find several fluids folks have used. Hydraulic jack oil, shock oil, fork oil, and the stuff Fred shows which is apparently similar to what Honda put in there. When you take the banjo fitting off of the pump body you will have the loose hose lifted high so as not to lose too much fluid. You can tape it up or tie it up so it does not leak out. You loosen the pump body bolts about 3 turns and then push the diaphram back into the free space created from that loosening. Try not to get too carried away with the loosening of the body screws or the diaphram may go back beyond the cylinder bore and then you have to take the body apart to get it restarted in the cylider again. A bamboo cooking squer (sp) seems to work fine as a push tool. With the extra space created, you add enough fluid into the opening uncovered by the banjo fitting to bring the fluid level up to brim full -- it takes very litte if you did not drain out the OE fluid - less than an oz I predict. Then as you hold the pump body with the fluid filled opening upward you grasp your hydraulic hose and notice it also has an air pocket in its upward end - the banjo fitting end -- how to replace that air with fluid? Well, for both fittings I used a barbeque syring with needle attached. The syringe full of Amsoil Shock THerapy fork/shock fluid and it was easy to inject a small amount into the pumb body to fill it and then just as easy to use the needle to guide the fluid into the upright banjo fitting t "flood" it. It was also easy to quickly reattach the banjo fitting to the pump without dripping the fluid out or allowoing air in. The syringe holds plenty, so if you get a bubble, refill and try again. Once happy with your refill, tighten those three bolts that hold the pump body together! In regard to fluids to consider, the stuff Fred shows seems to be the best bet.
I took the complete assembly off of the bike. I used my stock shock and just replaced the spring. I have Freds DVD set and it shows step by step how to fill the adjuster with fluid. Fred says to use Honda SS7 suspension fluid. I got mine from my local dealer, Hal didn't have it listed on his site. Before filling the adjuster my adjuster didn't start to moan till #9. After filling the adjuster it moans at #1! After you fill the adjuster you can just hook the electrical connectors and try the adjuster to see if it is fixed.
You don't have to hook anything up other than the two wire connectors. Freds DVD set is well worth the asking price, I feel that just doing the rear spring and adjuster fix paid for the DVD set. I know if a Dealer would have done the work it would have cost alot more than the DVD set cost. I just got my DVD set, my only regret is not buying them sooner.
Pigeon Roost, and Pap thanks so very much for your replies it will help much, excellent description , Pigeon Roost of the bleed I really appreciate it . I just gotta find more time now, probably tinker this weekend, not gonna be riding here in Chicago yet, Pap i'm getting the CD's from Fred, snowman