[Waldo]

The method is rather simple so I don't have any pics except the fiche.

Put her on the center stand then floor jack under the engine to raise the front wheel off the ground. Remove meter panel and fork cover.

Stuff will drip oil in the following so protect. You'll lose about a half teaspoon of fork oil, so replace that much in each side.

Left side: loosen top pinch bolt (12mm) and carefully unscrew the #25 fork cap (15mm). It's under just a little spring tension. Remove fork cap and #28 spacer. Use an "antenna" magnet to pull the #11 spring seat washer. Use the same magnet to slowly pull the spring letting some oil run off. Drop in the new spring (see note). Drop in the #11 spring seat washer (use a wooden dowel to tickle it if it gets sideways). Drop in the #28 spacer. Add 1/2 tsp oil. Wipe oil onto the o-ring (#40). Install cap. Tighten pinch bolt.

Right Side: loosen top pinch bolt (12mm) and carefully unscrew the #24 fork cap (15mm). It's under just a little spring tension. Pull up the fork cap enough to get a 14mm open end over the #23 damper lock nut. Hold the 14mm and unscrew the cap from the #19 rod. Pull the #8 spacer. Use an "antenna" magnet to pull the #11 spring seat washer. Use the same magnet to slowly pull the spring letting some oil run off. Drop in the new spring (see note). Drop in the #11 spring seat washer (use a wooden dowel to tickle it if it gets sideways). Drop in the #8 spacer. Add 1/2 tsp oil. Screw the cap onto the #19 damper rod while holding the damper rod (not the nut) with your pinky finger stuck in under the cap until finger tight. Hold the 14mm lock nut and tighten the fork cap to the damper rod. Oil the o-ring and install cap. Tighten pinch bolt.

Button 'er up and go riding.

(note: as per Max - lather up your new spring with fork oil first, then drop it in).

 

[blento]

Thanks Waldo, You just built my confidence to replace mine. I have the springs but waiting for bad weather as I was not sure how long it would take.
How is the handling after the change? We ride 2 up a lot and mine DO NOT seem to bottom out but it is a little to soft for washbord roads.

Which seals do recommend replacing as long as I am in there? I have only 20K on my 2003 and have had no leaks that I can see.

Thanks again

 

[wv_wingman]

Is that the procedure that Progressive recommends? How do you know the oil level is correct? Don't the progressives have a different number or size of turns or anything? If they have a different number of turns seems the oil level will change.

How is the ride?

 

[Pigeon Roost]

I fear you may be cheating yourself out of a good bot of benefit available form doing the job the traditional way. The fork oil is typically very dirty and gritty the first time. The disassembly and cleaning process is not that difficult. If it were not for the stubborn bottom hex bolt, it would be a snap. If you have much milage, its good to inspect the slider bushing and lower bushing for adequate black coating. The oil levels should be set by measuring with distance gague from teh top of the fork tubes, not by volume measure. The progressives do displaemore oil than do the OE springs.

prs

 

[Kenner]

Progressive spring install

...I'm really glad I have an extra wide ratio computer
screen or I'd have to continually scroll the bottom bar
back and forth, left to right, right to left, to read
each full sentence in order to read the full posts!

....Ken

 

[Ridge Runner]

Re: Progressive spring install

...I'm really glad I have an extra wide ratio computer
screen or I'd have to continually scroll the bottom bar
back and forth, left to right, right to left, to read
each full sentence in order to read the full posts!

....Ken

LOL

 

[Waldo]

Progressive instructions say "consult your service manual" and "see note #8" which is "use stock spacer". Oil was clean. Not enough difference to worry about and you measure with no springs installed anyway. If yer anal about it, you can remove both fork caps and measure the oil with the front wheel raised all the way. Just have to remove extra plastic.

I just wanted to see how the springs work real qwik. They work great. Much better ride. Smoother on the little bumps, better on the bigger ones and deadly silent. Dive is cut in half or more. Handles great in turns and increased clearance.

Did not replace anything but the springs. No seals to fiddle with. Just oil the o-ring on the fork caps.

 

[Max McAllister]

Hello Waldo,

You should know that much more than a half a teaspoon of oil is lost in swapping the springs.

At the racetrack, if I am in a hurry, I use a rubber glove, grab the spring at the top and pinch it, and then "unscrew" it, thereby "squeegie-ing" as much oil as possible off of the spring.

The oil level will still drop 10mm in spite of this. There is so much surface area on a spring that just the film of oil on it is a lot. If you just pull the spring out slowly, you will drop the level 20mm. This amount will definitely effect the fork adversely.

Anytime you take a spring out, you should reset the oil level. You don't have to take anything else apart to move the wheel up and check/reset the oil level.

 

[Waldo]

Max,

Thanks. I measured it. Left a spring sit for a good while. Progressive springs are fatter and have more coils. Figured it would average out with 1/2 teaspoon. Progressive instructions aren't too fussy about it.

Works good. Maybe one day when I win the lotto, I'll go Traxxion :wink: .

Will, however, make a note in the original post.

 

[ricky]

Glad you could do it in 30 min.There are a lot of reasons i take a bunch longer!