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Hi Team,
The fall I'm going to need to change clutch and brake fluids, and I'm seen a lot of references to the Mityvac pump to assist with this chore. I've found the Mityvac MV8000 hand powered unit on Amazon for about $30. Is this a good unit to use? If not, what do folks suggest? Thanks All!
Stephen
 

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Use the cheapest Mityvac (about $29) for the clutch only.
Use this MotionPro tool for changing brake fluid and bleeding brakes :thumbup::

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/hydraulic_brake_bleeder/

The MotionPro tool is much easier than the Mityvac and will get all the air out if you follow the easy instructions. I used to be afraid to try the MotionPro tool but now the old Mityvac just sits in a drawer reserved for clutch fluid changes :beer3:.
 

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Gator, I actually use the MotionPro and the Might-Vac together at the same time. Some have said that for the occasional stubborn bubble in the Master that just won't come out, that just pumping the brake handle/pedal won't get that bubble out. They say a pump like the Mity-Vac has to be used. Like I said, I don't have that issue because I do use both tools, but what say you? Thanks.
 

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I use neither and do things the old fashin way and can always count on the results.
 

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Call me old fashioned but I still prefer the ol' manual pump & bleed method. Usually just (sometimes) use my MV Pro to get things started on a rebuilt dry system. Occasionally had stubborn air with the MV that simply took a few cycles of manual bleeding to get rid of. I have a real stubborn pair of 4 piston Performance Machine calipers on my other sickle that just hate the MV for whatever reason. Who knows, maybe it's just me...
 

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Gator, I actually use the MotionPro and the Might-Vac together at the same time. Some have said that for the occasional stubborn bubble in the Master that just won't come out, that just pumping the brake handle/pedal won't get that bubble out. They say a pump like the Mity-Vac has to be used. Like I said, I don't have that issue because I do use both tools, but what say you? Thanks.
Richard....I have never had that problem but think loosing of the banjo bolt is what I think most do to solve that problem. A little scary around paint. As you know nothing is going to pull an air bubble totally out going from the master cylinder to the caliper. MotionPro has a new tool that bleeds in reverse. I forces fluid and air bubbles back wards (up from the caliper to the master). They claim it gets all air out since air is lighter than fluid and really is almost impossible to force it downward.
Here is a video of it in action.
I always have my helper watch reservoirs so I don't accidentally get the dreaded air bubble caught in the banjo fitting :22yikes:.
I know for sure all the 8 MM bleeder valves need Teflon tape installed. The 10 MM already have sealant. I don't know why Honda did that. Only one needed a finger over the over the open hole with the valve removed :shrug:.
The brakes feel solid after using the MotionPro check valve type tool but a little spongy after using the Mityvac. The Mityvac wouldn't pull from the anti-dive valve. The MotionPro got that one solved like a champ.
I think the MotionPro check valve type is just a substitute for keeping the discharge submerged in the old manual method and works well :thumbup:.

http://motionpro.com/motorcycle/articles/view/829/how-to_video__diy_brake_and_clutch_bleeder_08-0316/
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Everyone!

After reading all the replies, I've ordered both the Mityvac and the motion pro. I don't need to change the fluids until just before winter storage, but I bought the bike new as a leftover 08 in July of 09, and folks seem to suggest changing brake and clutch fluids (and anti-freeze) every two years, so I figure it's time. I've got 10k miles on her so far. Thanks again!:lol:
 

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Just changed the brake fluid for the first time on my '06 and used the Mity-Vac that I've used for years. We are not talking bleeding the brakes - just changing fluid. I think I found all of the bleeders (7). The Vac worked fine, even for the anti-dive bleeder, although it was a bit slow. If you don't want to teflon tape the thresds, just smear some heavy grease around the base of the bleeder and air can't be sucked through the grease. Make sure to clean it off when finished.

Now a question - how much of the Wing has to come apart to change the clutch fluid? Where is the bleeder buried? Thanks

Dave
 
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