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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

Has anyone purchased this kit from Cycle Gadgets for changing their oil on their wing?

The Quick Changer eliminates all the hassle in draining your motor oil. Just remove the protective cap (No oil yet!), put the drain hose into a container, and start threading the hose fitting onto the Quick Changer drain plug. As you thread it on, the Quick Changer valve opens wide, allowing hot oil, debris, and sediment to flow safely and neatly into your container. When the oil is finished draining, just unthread the hose. The Quick Changer valve's rubber O-ring seals tightly to prevent leakage. Thread on the protective cap, refill with fresh oil, and you're done!

Also, if you have the "belly pan" (Tulsa or whatever brand) can you still use this Quick Changer????

Thanks,

:D
 

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I have these kits on all of our cars, and do not see why it would not work
as well on a motorcycle. The oil does not flow out as fast, but I am not
in a mad dash when changing it anyway :)

Why not on a Wing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wk4bg8s said:
I have these kits on all of our cars, and do not see why it would not work
as well on a motorcycle. The oil does not flow out as fast, but I am not
in a mad dash when changing it anyway :)

Why not on a Wing?
But....would this still work as "permanently" attached if you have a belly pan on the bike?
 

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I would think that it would. The oil plug faces forward, and the only issue
would be the cannister just ahead of it. I don't have one to try, but I
took a quick look, and it seems that it would do-able.
 

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Sure drain

It works fine I have it on mine it is a Fram SD 2 I also used it on my 1500.Plus you never need a crush washer.
 
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How long is the drain hose that comes with this kit? (hoping it is just a few inches, so you don't have a coil of hose laying in the oil pan...)
 

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Fred; so long as it is leaking, you are OK. :wink:

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quick Drain

So ANGUS, can you answer Fred H.'s question ???

Do you worry about the valve getting loose and allowing the oil to drain out while you might be riding?

How snug is that valve?

Every have any problems?


Thanks

:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Quick Change Oil Kit

I just got a reply from Cycle Gadgets....informing me that this kit will NOT work with a belly pan installed.

Bummer

:twisted:
 

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You can buy lots of crush washers for the price of this kit. And what does it save you? How is removing a cap and threading on a hose less work than just removing the stock oil drain bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Quick Drain

Ellary said:
You can buy lots of crush washers for the price of this kit. And what does it save you? How is removing a cap and threading on a hose less work than just removing the stock oil drain bolt?
I agree with you....however, the kit allows what is "normally" a messy oil draining situation (since the oil gets all over your hand before you get the oil plug off and away from the opening) AND it allows you to channel the oil into a container rather than an oil pan and then have to pour it again possibly spilling it.
 

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DRAIN

It does work with a belly pan the hose is around 6 inch long there is a brass cap with a o-ring that goes over the unit.If the valve fails the brass cap will stop the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: DRAIN

ANGUS said:
It does work with a belly pan the hose is around 6 inch long there is a brass cap with a o-ring that goes over the unit.If the valve fails the brass cap will stop the leak.
GREAT News!!!!

Cycle Gadgets customer service told me it would not.

So ANGUS, you are happy with it? Guess you need one crush washer the first time you install the kit (no biggie)

THX
 

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Baron -
You need to work on your speed and techique of removing the drain plug. I generally only get the tips of my fingers wet with oil, and because of the latex gloves even that is not a problem. The gloves also help with grip on the filter. I don't drop them into the pan of hot oil as much :oops: :x
While the oil is draining I can get a soda or something and, after 10 minutes, add oil and I'm done.
 

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It looks like the only time it would have the potential for leaking is when you disconnect the coupler. If it doesn't leak then, I don't see what could possibly happen to make it leak. Tire valve stems are put on the inside of the wheel and gravity is always trying to unseat the plunger (exept for the 90 degree wing vaslve stems) but never does. Even with the week little spring that holds it shut. The oil drain has no such forces placed upon it. And I'll bet the spring holding that plunger is way stronger than any valve stem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Draining OIL

Clamper said:
Baron -
You need to work on your speed and techique of removing the drain plug. I generally only get the tips of my fingers wet with oil, and because of the latex gloves even that is not a problem. The gloves also help with grip on the filter. I don't drop them into the pan of hot oil as much :oops: :x
While the oil is draining I can get a soda or something and, after 10 minutes, add oil and I'm done.
Clamper I guess you are right....must be getting slow in my old age.....never turned bolts as fast as you can obviously. Changed a lot of oil but always unscrewed the bolts off at a standard rate.

I am into technology and when there are ways of doing things that are less messy and or more efficient....I tend to go those ways!!!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
nedro said:
It looks like the only time it would have the potential for leaking is when you disconnect the coupler. If it doesn't leak then, I don't see what could possibly happen to make it leak. Tire valve stems are put on the inside of the wheel and gravity is always trying to unseat the plunger (exept for the 90 degree wing vaslve stems) but never does. Even with the week little spring that holds it shut. The oil drain has no such forces placed upon it. And I'll bet the spring holding that plunger is way stronger than any valve stem.

I totally agree with your logic!!!
 

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Re: DRAIN

ANGUS said:
It does work with a belly pan the hose is around 6 inch long there is a brass cap with a o-ring that goes over the unit.If the valve fails the brass cap will stop the leak.
My first thought was...of course it will work with a belly pan...then i wondered if the "real" question was...Do you have to still remove the front portion of the belly pan?...I would think you would still have to in order to get the cover cap off and hook up the hose...Right?
 

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sure drain

Yes you have to remove the front section of the belly pan .
 
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