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Discussion Starter #1
Race tech question

Not sure I found the answer in previous posts.
I'm relative short 26 inseam. a little higher with lifts and extra sole on bottom of boots. I had my seat lowered a "house of covers" in Albuquerque. It is so low that they cut away some of the seat pan on the sides so my feet would drop straight down. Now I can actually flat foot the bike.

Here is what I'm not sure of. I'm told the Race tech forks and gold valve will raise the bike about 3/4". Not sure I can afford the extra height. Does the amount of spacers used affect the height and if so does it affect the preload of the new springs and what issues does that create. I really don't understand the dynamics of the whole thing. I just don't want the bike any higher than it is now. And I prefer a less harsh ride. Bad back and all.

Basically I want the bike the same hight with a better ride
 

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It will raise the bike ride height but to off set that just raise the forks in the tripple tree about 1/2 inch you can raise it more if you need too
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks snoopy . Does that affect the handling of the bike or the preload? Do you do that from the top with the forks already in? Also would it be easy to put in all balls at the same time.
 

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To find out how much the preload raises the front end you should check the sag before installing the Race Tech stuff. It helps if you have some sort of jack to get the front wheel off the ground (slightly). Put a tie wrap around a fork leg above the dust cover. Put the bike on the side stand and slide the tie wrap down against the dust cap. Carefully get on the bike and try and put as much of your weight on the bike. It helps to have a second person holding the bike vertically. Then carefully set the bike back on the sidestand and get off. Now put a jack under the bike and raise the front wheel. The distance the tie wrap is from the dust cover is the sag with you on it. It will probably be around 3 inches. When you are done with the Race tech install do the same thing. Depending on the length of the spacer you put in the sag will be 1.5-2". The difference between the stock sag and the Race tech is the amount the front end is raised now. You could slide the forks into the triple trees but I don't think you could slide them more than about 1/2" or so without hitting the plastic cover over the top triple tree.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Will just putting in a shorter spacer lower it?
 

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Will just putting in a shorter spacer lower it?
This is what I did.
I installed some racetech springs and found that I was then having trouble seeing over the windshield ( I had already cut it down 2 ").
The spring spacers where cut to the minium length according to race tech, but I thought that I would cut them down a further 5/8" anyway.
When I took the spacers out I measured them aginst the stock spacers and found that the stock spacers where ( almost ) exactly 5/8" shorter than the racetech spacers so I installed the stock spacers!!!
This worked out GREAT, the bike is riding at the stock height again and the bounce that I was getting with the race tech spacers & springs is pretty much gone.
BTW I partially disabled my anti dive valve by putting in a .070 thick washer.
I am pretty happy with this set up.
Hope that this helps you.
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does the shorter spacer affect the preload. Unless I don't understand preload it seem there would be less and more bounce. Or is preload somehow independent of the length of the spacer. As I originally said, I don't understand how al this works together.
 

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Does the shorter spacer affect the preload. Unless I don't understand preload it seem there would be less and more bounce. Or is preload somehow independent of the length of the spacer. As I originally said, I don't understand how al this works together.
All I can tell you is that for me it lessened the amount of bounce.
I feel that the bounce was from too much preload, but whatever.
It only takes a few minutes to swap the spacers...
Remove your meter panel, loosen the top clamp bolts and remove the caps.
You will need to hold the right side cap and loosen the jam nut underneath it,( 14mm I think) then spin it off the rod.
All very easy to do, just be careful when starting to reinstall the caps back on because the thread is very fine and the cap material is soft, it's easy to cross thread them. I mark the thread end on the cap and the top tree where it came off so that I can aline the end of one thread with the start of the other.
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks prosso.
 

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Thanks prosso.
buckaroobonzai
You are welcome.
I forgot to say, make sure that you don't forget to jack the front wheel off the ground before removing the fork caps. Tunnel vison can hurt.
I know this from experiance. Ha Ha:eek:4::oops:
Paul
 

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Does the shorter spacer affect the preload. Unless I don't understand preload it seem there would be less and more bounce. Or is preload somehow independent of the length of the spacer. As I originally said, I don't understand how al this works together.
The combination of spring rate and preload sets the ride height. As a general rule you want the sag with you on the bike to be about 1/3 of the total fork travel. In this case the fork travel is a hair over 5 inches so 1.7-1.8" is about right. If the ride is too jarring with that preload setting you can soften the response to bumps by decreasing the compression damping. With the Race Tech setup that is done by backing off the emulator spring on the left fork and removing 1 or 2 shims on the compression valve in the right leg. To set rebound damping you should pump the forks while off any side or center stand. You want the forks to just return to the top after you push them down. If they come to the top and then settle down a bit you need to add rebound damping. That is done by increasing the fork oil weight on the left leg and adding shims on the rebound valve in the right leg. Changing fork oil weight in the right leg will change both compression and rebound damping.

I setup my bike to minimize the jarring bumps for my wife's benefit at some expense to sporty handling. With .95 springs in the front I have the emulator set at 2 turns on the spring and 20 wt fork oil. The right side is set at "plush" (2 compression shims removed) and 5 wt fork oil set to 4.5" from the top to inhibit fork bottoming. Preload is set to 1.75" sag with me on it. Using the recomended settings the ride was too harsh for her. Your ideal settings will undoubtedly vary.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Unfortunately I know a lot of things from experience.
 
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