Crack both bleeders,push old brake pad back against caliper pistons(floating calipers)to force them all the way back,then take out the threaded pin at one end(behind a rubber plug) with a 5mm allen wrench and they will fall out.New ones go in the same way,just make sure the square tab is seated in the corresponding recess in each side of the caliper. Pump up brake pedal and check level in reservoir and away you go.........just give 'em a day or two of driving to bed in. Fronts & rears are the same, I used EBC FA261HH pads on my '04 Wing.
You change them the same way you change the front pads. The only thing different is you have to lay down on the ground and work under the right saddlebag if you don't have a lift and you don't have remove any chrome.
Just remove the pin and the pads will almost fall out.I use a small C clamp with an old brake pad backing without the pad material on it to compress the cylinders.You don't want to pry against the rotor or you will warp the rotor mount. Just make sure the top square tabs are in their retainer....you can see them from the left side if you rotate the wheel and look between the spokes.You probably won't be able to insert pin if it is not lined up properly...The pin is under the rubber cap. Good Luck.Email me if you have a problem..Jim
I remove the pin, rotate the old pads out then put the outside one back in and us a tool meant for adjusting drum brakes to push the pistons back in again the rotate the new pads in. It takes about 5 minutes to change.
I only run Honda Brake pads. They may appear to be more expensive but they are actually less expensive. They are thicker, they don’t over heat and fade as easily and they don’t put out us much brake dust. Being on a Precision Motorcycle Drill Team with my wing, we’re hard on rear brakes and you get to know a lot more about the brakes.
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