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Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced my rear pads with OEM pads hoping the foot pedal would come back to normal. I rarely use the pedal brake except when slow manuevering and lately (last year) my right foot was operated on and I have only been using front brake lever. It has a 3 -4" travel what have I not done.
Thanks
 

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Air in that line. You would be wise to bleed the entire system after replacing th old fluid with clean fresh wonderful new. While your at it do your clutch s well.
 

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Air in that line. You would be wise to bleed the entire system after replacing th old fluid with clean fresh wonderful new. While your at it do your clutch s well.
Required to be done every 12k. Sorry to so sound like a preacher, but as a minimum, maintain it as required .... or, pay high repair cost once around 100k.
 

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I just replaced my rear pads with OEM pads hoping the foot pedal would come back to normal. I rarely use the pedal brake except when slow manuevering and lately (last year) my right foot was operated on and I have only been using front brake lever. It has a 3 -4" travel what have I not done.
Thanks

What year is your bike??
The reason I ask is early years had bad rear master cyl's.
Yours could be as simple as air in the system.
When was the last time the brake fluid was changed? Or as Greg said "how many miles ago?".

BTW:
I'm not picking on you or telling you how to ride.But--
You should of been taught to apply both brakes at the same time.This equalizes the bike and is very effective in not putting to much pressure on one end vs the other of the bike when braking.:thumbup:

The 1800's brake system is unlike any other bike you've owned in the past.

The rear brake pedal controls more caliper pistons/delay valve/Porportioning valve/secondary master cyl/ADV than the hand lever does.



 

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There's a REAR brake??













:joke:
 

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The secondary master cylinder does a pretty good job of doing what Rocky spoke even if you use only the front lever.

Tie a very heavy weight to your pedal and let it hang overnight. Might have to do this once a week or so. You can also firm up your front lever with a zip tie pulled tight then removed next day.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow ... do not know how to respond but say thanks for the help and I need to get to the Direct line to get pads and some bleeding assists. I've had the dealer change the fluid every time I change tires but this last time with Open Heart surgery and a foot operation have not put the 20k on a year for last two years so need to flush out and replace and maybe put two new pad sets on the front.

Talk about complete and detailed responses....awesome thanks.
 

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Wow ... do not know how to respond but say thanks for the help and I need to get to the Direct line to get pads and some bleeding assists. I've had the dealer change the fluid every time I change tires but this last time with Open Heart surgery and a foot operation have not put the 20k on a year for last two years so need to flush out and replace and maybe put two new pad sets on the front.

Talk about complete and detailed responses....awesome thanks.

First off."I'm glad you are still with us" after going through a heart operation.:bow:

Second after hearing about the bke sitting,and how you have maintained your bike.
I do suspect air in the system.If you can do a brake flush?.I suggest a Mity Vac.it's easy to do if you follow the service manual as to the brake flush sequence at the caliper bleeder valves.

Remember to take the calipers off so you can clean each of the caliper pistons throughly before you push them back into the caliper.Doin so avoids premature caliper seal failure due to stuck on brake pad dirt.

Let me know via PM if you need any help and I'll walk you through it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First off."I'm glad you are still with us" after going through a heart operation.:bow:

Second after hearing about the bke sitting,and how you have maintained your bike.
I do suspect air in the system.If you can do a brake flush?.I suggest a Mity Vac.it's easy to do if you follow the service manual as to the brake flush sequence at the caliper bleeder valves.

Remember to take the calipers off so you can clean each of the caliper pistons throughly before you push them back into the caliper.Doin so avoids premature caliper seal failure due to stuck on brake pad dirt.

Let me know via PM if you need any help and I'll walk you through it.
Appreciate the recommendation, this 02 has been the love of all the bikes I have/had. I have Freds' DVD's and have gone through them a couple times and I have worked on on the bike for the filters, oils, etc., etc., but when they recommended to change fluids on tire replacements I just got a little/LOT lazy. Thanks for such a informative and positive wake up call. Looks like it goes up on the rack when I get back home. Thanks again.

boz
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just a follow up and thanks again.

I ordered 8 speed bleeders (did not see they came in sets of 2..duh which way did he go..) , and new front pads. All went together rather well and the speed bleeders are a dream. Believe my soft pedal was due to not bleed antidive, as had disabled it years ago but when fluids replaced before they must not have bleed as when I removed the oem bleeder no fluid came out and took a few pumps with the speed bleeder before fluid. Took my time and bleed all old fluid out and it is tight and no squeak .... yeah. The bleed bag from Direct like comes with bag and line but no connection to connect them together but had an old T that I blocked off. Feels good to do it myself again. Speed bleeders sure helps the speed and one-man shop.

Thanks again for the help and inspiration. I really did enjoy it.
 

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OK, so let me start by saying that I really appreciate the diagrams. I've only had my bike a month, so the information is great. One thing that has confused me is the owners manual. I quote...

"Operating the front brake lever applies the front brake and a portion of the rear brake. Operating the rear brake pedal applies the rear brake and a portion of the front brake."

I'm sure that there is something missing that will cause the differences that I see in the diagrams and this part of the manual to become clear to me, but I don't know what it is yet. Any help is appreciated.

Jason
 

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OK, so let me start by saying that I really appreciate the diagrams. I've only had my bike a month, so the information is great. One thing that has confused me is the owners manual. I quote...

"Operating the front brake lever applies the front brake and a portion of the rear brake. Operating the rear brake pedal applies the rear brake and a portion of the front brake."

I'm sure that there is something missing that will cause the differences that I see in the diagrams and this part of the manual to become clear to me, but I don't know what it is yet. Any help is appreciated.

Jason
It's a linked brake system. Appying front also applies a portion of the rear.
applying the rear brake also applies a portion of the fronts.
Applying both brakes applies both fronts and the rear and everybodies favorite, the ADV gets activated along the way also:lol:
But no partridge in a pear tree:coffee1::joke:
 

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It's a linked brake system. Appying front also applies a portion of the rear.
applying the rear brake also applies a portion of the fronts.
Applying both brakes applies both fronts and the rear and everybodies favorite, the ADV gets activated along the way also:lol:
But no partridge in a pear tree:coffee1::joke:
I completely understand the theory, but the diagams indicate otherwise. They show the foot brake running both the front and back, but the hand brake only running the front.

As a noob here my goal is only to learn. I'm just trying to rationalize the diagrams to the owners manual.

I'm also surprised by the fact that the ADV seems to work on the rear brake. This seems counter to having an ADV, but I'm obviously missing something.

Jason
 

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I changed the fluid on my '07 for the first time the other day. Never really look forward to brake bleeding because for some reason I have trouble getting all the air out.

Since the fluid was overdue for a change, (but not too dark) I went with the full flush with the MityVac. Helps somewhat, tho not all the bleeders seal against the hose well for me. I find it more useful for pulling the old fluid out rather than pulling new fluid in.

Even tho the Honda parts fiche shows that all the brake system bleeders are of 2 types, I needed 3 different size wrenches (8,9,10mm) to open all the valves. Will probably get the SpeedBleeders for the next go-around.

I just used the brake lever and pedal to bleed both circuits. The front is a little slow, but the rear really pushes the fluid through. Watch out so that you don't run the rear master cylinder dry or you will have to start over. And follow the order.

After that, pedal was still soft. Went back around and got maybe 20 barely see-able bubbles out of the front. Man, it don't take much air to really degrade the brake system. Took just over 2 small bottles.

Both lever and pedal rock-hard.
 

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I completely understand the theory, but the diagams indicate otherwise. They show the foot brake running both the front and back, but the hand brake only running the front.

As a noob here my goal is only to learn. I'm just trying to rationalize the diagrams to the owners manual.

I'm also surprised by the fact that the ADV seems to work on the rear brake. This seems counter to having an ADV, but I'm obviously missing something.

Jason
Look at the front left caliper in the diagram. It is mounted on a pivot. When it's actuated the rotation of the brake disc causes it to apply pressure to the secondary master cyinder.

Ralph Wenzl
 
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