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Discussion Starter #1
The manual says, on page 193, that the standard setting is 0 (out of 0 to 26). I'm new, and before reading that assumed that the standard setting would be somewhere near the middle of the range. I set mine lower than that, as I don't ride hard (especially on a bike that is brand new and a model I've never ridden before). But I didn't set it to 0. I weigh about 190, and am not carrying anything much these days. Do you all find that 0 is the best setting? I want it soft right now because of a recovering back (spinal disks) and terrible frost heaves. I just don't want it so soft that I start having control issues, but I'm not even remotely close to pushing the bike's capabilities. I've only got 225 miles on it so far.

So, what settings do you all use for what kinds of loads/riding?
 

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The manual says, on page 193, that the standard setting is 0 (out of 0 to 26). I'm new, and before reading that assumed that the standard setting would be somewhere near the middle of the range. I set mine lower than that, as I don't ride hard (especially on a bike that is brand new and a model I've never ridden before). But I didn't set it to 0. I weigh about 190, and am not carrying anything much these days. Do you all find that 0 is the best setting? I want it soft right now because of a recovering back (spinal disks) and terrible frost heaves. I just don't want it so soft that I start having control issues, but I'm not even remotely close to pushing the bike's capabilities. I've only got 225 miles on it so far.

So, what settings do you all use for what kinds of loads/riding?
I set mine at the lowest in order to plant both feet flat on the pavement when stopped. The highest setting raises my seat at least 1.5".

I get a smooth ride by using a car tire on the rear and setting the pressure to 28 psi.

I ride a lot at night and my headlights shine down the road farther at the low setting.

I sometimes raise it to the highest setting if the kickstand does not allow the bike to lean enough when on sloping ground.

Tom Finch posted a great thread that explains how the settings affect the ride, maybe someone will chime in with a link to his thread.

gramps
 

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It is my understanding the the settings have nothing to do with the ride height of the bike, only the stiffness and load capacity. I have mine at 1 for just me and then take it up to 7 or more for the wife and me. I really do not even tell a difference in the settings but I assume it does something. I do know that when I bought the bike I thought it rode like crap and when I got home I found the settings were to the top. It is much better the way I ride with them now.
 

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:roll::roll::roll:WHEN YOU PUT EXTRA WEIGHT WILL NOT NOTICE DIFFERENCE WHEN GOING TO 7 ! ALSO MAKE DURE PRELOAD STARTS AT ZERO !!! PUT BIKE ON CENTER STAND. SET PRELOAD TO ZERO . BIKE NOT RUNNING . LISTEN TO PUMP/SHOCK NOISE ! CHECK WHEN YOU HEAR AS SHOCK KICKS IN . MY 05 DIDNT KICK IN TILL 11 !!!
 

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The preload setting is to set the bike's rear end at the proper height. It doesn't change the stiffness of the shock. You want between 30 and 50% sag when your riding the bike. In order to know what the proper setting is, you need to know how much sag you have on the bike and that will depend on the weight you are carrying.

I can pretty much guarantee you that you are in excess of the 50% sag amount even with the bike set at 25. The bike is just horribly undersprung. Of course if you like a bike that drags it's @ss, the wing is perfect as it comes from the factory. :lol:

I set mine at the lowest in order to plant both feet flat on the pavement when stopped. The highest setting raises my seat at least 1.5".

I get a smooth ride by using a car tire on the rear and setting the pressure to 28 psi.

I ride a lot at night and my headlights shine down the road farther at the low setting.

I sometimes raise it to the highest setting if the kickstand does not allow the bike to lean enough when on sloping ground.

Tom Finch posted a great thread that explains how the settings affect the ride, maybe someone will chime in with a link to his thread.

gramps
 

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Just curious if everyone is discussing the 2012 and up model? My bike is far from a saggy old thing. This is also a thread that I read elsewhere.

What a crock of crap.



The 2012 shock was revalved and the 2012 spring was changed from 900 pounds to 1,000 pounds.

Only a fool would think Honda had just changed the coil thickness. Why would Honda waste their money doing that??



Saying Honda only spent $0.25 is a joke at best and sends your credibility down the toilet with the other false claims. But then again when you are selling shocks and trees. It sounds plausible huh


Here is the 2001 -2010 Lower tree.



Here is the more robust 2012 lower tree.

Dennis already pointed out the improvements.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, this topic is obviously a source of a lot of confusion! I'm no expert on suspensions, and that's for sure. Having read the previous posts, I did do a little experiment. I sat on the bike with my feet on the ground and ran the preload adjustment all the was up from zero to 25 and back down again. I could easily feel the bike moving up and down as I did that. So it's definitely moving something. I have to believe that setting it low will soften the ride.

I guess I'll just have to experiment to see if it makes enough of a difference to bother with, and if so, where I want to set it for what kind of load/riding.

Thank you to all who took the time to reply.
 

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Well, this topic is obviously a source of a lot of confusion! I'm no expert on suspensions, and that's for sure. Having read the previous posts, I did do a little experiment. I sat on the bike with my feet on the ground and ran the preload adjustment all the was up from zero to 25 and back down again. I could easily feel the bike moving up and down as I did that. So it's definitely moving something. I have to believe that setting it low will soften the ride.

I guess I'll just have to experiment to see if it makes enough of a difference to bother with, and if so, where I want to set it for what kind of load/riding.

Thank you to all who took the time to reply.
I did the same as you but I really never felt it going up or down. :shrug: I have also done as others have suggested and run it from 0 up and the pump never changes its tone. I do this on the center stand so maybe that is why, no load on the bike. All I know is when I ride with my wife and I have it set like I do we never bottom out and the ride is very nice. One thing for sure, there are always lot's of opinions on these forums. :lol: Happy riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did a 70 mile ride today. Part freeway, part around town, part back roads. I'm just getting used to the bike. The frost heaves are terrible right now. Anyway, I had the preload set down to zero today and I could definitely feel a difference on the bumps. I had it set up around seven or eight before. So I think my basic setting will be zero for now.
 

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I did a 70 mile ride today. Part freeway, part around town, part back roads. I'm just getting used to the bike. The frost heaves are terrible right now. Anyway, I had the preload set down to zero today and I could definitely feel a difference on the bumps. I had it set up around seven or eight before. So I think my basic setting will be zero for now.
:thumbup:
 

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I did the same as you but I really never felt it going up or down. :shrug: I have also done as others have suggested and run it from 0 up and the pump never changes its tone. I do this on the center stand so maybe that is why, no load on the bike. All I know is when I ride with my wife and I have it set like I do we never bottom out and the ride is very nice. One thing for sure, there are always lot's of opinions on these forums. :lol: Happy riding.
It will not change much wile on center stand as the rear tire is off the ground. Hold the bike up no side or center stand and run it up from 0. At some point you should hear the actuator change tone as if it hit load. If no change one of two things are happening.
1) you are starting right from 0 and have presure at the acctuator. This is good, should see the bike moving up as you get to 25.
2) you hear no change or the change is at say 7-10 thats less good. Means you have air in your acctuator. Dont feel bad, most of them do and it is a fairly simple DIY to get it out. Well documented here on this sight just try a search for refilling acctuator.
Im a big boy and the girl and I dance like big people do. I ride at 4-7 solo and 10 with my SO or any other girl that will climb on. Keep in mind I do not have stock suspension. Full Monty here. Stock I had it at 25 all the time. Someone said "undersprug" That is being kind IMO.
 

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16 for me

I need it set at 16 to not bottom out badly just getting out of the driveway.
I bet I need to get the air out, I will research that and see if it helps.

Also, this is the first post I have read where someone indicated that the spring was raised to 1000 lbs/in in the 12s. Nice to know, but I as it stands right now I really dislike the valving, but again, maybe it would be better if I got the air out.

...gene
 

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The air being referred to only applies to the hydraulic preload system which is completely independent of the shocks valving/dampening itself. Bleeding the air from the preload system will allow the preload piston sitting on top of the shock assembly to begin immediately appling preload to the spring when you press the dash button. Often times the display on the dash will read 3 to 10 before the preload system actually begins appling preload to the rear spring (listen carefully for a change in the hydraulic preload motor's pitch. At the change in pitch from 0 is when the spring starts to get preloaded). With the air bled out of the preload assembly, you'll begin getting preload on the spring at 1 (no change in pitch from the hydraulic preload motor will be heard).

So bleeding the air out of the preload assembly provides you with the full preloading range available (1-25 as opposed to 3 or 7 to 25) but will do nothing to stiffen the rear spring. If you're bottoming out just exiting your driveway, I'm guessing you need to upgrade the rear spring to a higher rate spring. Say an 1100lb or 1200lb spring over the 1000lb spring currently in the 2012 and up Wings.

I need it set at 16 to not bottom out badly just getting out of the driveway.
I bet I need to get the air out, I will research that and see if it helps.

Also, this is the first post I have read where someone indicated that the spring was raised to 1000 lbs/in in the 12s. Nice to know, but I as it stands right now I really dislike the valving, but again, maybe it would be better if I got the air out.

...gene
 

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Decided to really check out the rear system. I put the bike on the ground and had it set at 0. I had my son measure the distance from rear fender to the ground. As soon as I started the pump it was the same tone from 0 to 25 and it raised the entire bike up at least 1 inch. At the half way point it was around 1/2 inch which was right at the 12 setting. I believe my bike works as it is supposed to and I will continue to run at 1 for single riding and 7 to 10 for double up riding or more depending on what I am carrying. I have never had a problem with bottoming out. :thumbup:
 

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I'm a new owner of a '12 and when solo riding hard in the twistys I have it set to 23. It seems to help the bike turn better and have a little more ground clearance. And the ride doesn't beat me to death when we hit the real bumpy bits.
 

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My 2 cents is the higher the number the more travel you have in your suspension. If its on 0 and you hit a hard bump you will bottom out. your preference
 

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A couple of comments have been made here that are wrong. One is that the purpose of the pre-load adjustment is to raise or lower the bike to the proper height, not to change the stiffness. No. Wrong. Adjusting the compression of a spring will reduce the amount of travel and make the spring move in the stiffest portion of its resistance. That it raises or lowers is just incidental, but not the purpose and not the same on all bikes.

Also stated was that the higher the number of preload, the more travel you will have. In fact, it's just the opposite. When at a high number, you are only operating in the high pressure section of the springs length of movement. When a low number, you are allowing the entire range of movement including the softest part.

So if you have all the air bled out of the system, then when at 0 you have the least amount of hydraulic fluid in the shock. As you pump it up to 25, you force more from the pump into the lines to the shock continually.

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Does anyone know for SURE, with proof, if there is less travel set at 25 than there is at 0?
 

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This the way I see it. A dirt bike has 11 inches of suspension travel in the rear properly set up which is full movement up and down. You need the travel going up as well as down. If you replace the spring with one that is much stronger the amount of travel remains the same but you will need to gain a couple hundred pounds in order to make the spring compress enough to use the travel. I think you can understand what this means. Load up the Wing with a lot of weight and move the pump up into the bigger numbers. Take off the weight and move it back down into the lower numbers. Just like swapping out springs on the dirt bike.
 
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